Cord and rope in camp: choice, securing ends, care

A cord is made of many thin fibres that are twisted, braided or held together inside a sheath. Its strength comes from the load being spread across all the fibres. Every damaged fibre stops carrying its share – the rest must do more. That is why a cord is only as strong as its weakest point.

Several things weaken fibres: abrasion on edges, bark or rock; UV light, which makes many synthetic fibres brittle over time; heat and chemicals; and knots, because the fibres are bent sharply inside the knot. Natural fibres such as hemp, cotton or sisal cope better with heat but can rot if stored damp.

An unsecured end comes apart because nothing holds the fibres together. When heat-sealing, synthetic fibres fuse into a firm cap. When whipping, a tight wrap of thin twine holds the fibres together – that also works with natural fibres, which do not melt.

Choose the cord for the task. For guylines, a low-stretch, UV-resistant line keeps the tarp from sagging. For bundling and lashing, flexible cord is more pleasant. Near a fire you avoid synthetic fibres because they melt – above a fireplace, natural fibre or a piece of chain is the better choice. When strength matters, use only bought, labelled products; with unknown cord nobody can say what it will hold.

Check cord regularly by running it slowly through your hands before and after use. Hard, glazed, frayed, discoloured or thin spots are warning signs. Cut such a section out or replace the whole line.

Where a line runs over an edge, bark or a rock, pad it with a piece of cloth or tubing. After use, untie the knots, because knots left tight for months are hard to open and strain the fibres.

Paracord, washing line and craft cord are never meant for climbing, abseiling or securing people. Such uses require tested, standard-compliant equipment and training. Camp cord is not suitable for lifting heavy loads or towing either.

When heat-sealing, liquid plastic can drip. It is very hot and sticks to skin, so do not shape it with your fingers while it is hot, and do not work inside a tent. Hold the end in the flame only briefly and let it cool.

A line that breaks under tension can snap back. So do not stand in line with a heavily tensioned line. Tensioned lines in camp are also trip hazards, especially in the dark – a brightly coloured piece of cloth or ribbon on them makes them visible.

Paracord is a popular all-purpose cord. It has a braided sheath and several thin strands inside, the core. You can pull these inner strands out for fine repairs, for example for sewing or as thin binding cord. The empty sheath is much weaker afterwards, though, and only good for light tasks.

Thin twine or thread is useful for whipping rope ends and for small bindings. A piece of tape can secure an end temporarily in an emergency. A knife for clean cuts and a lighter for synthetic ends complete the kit.

Anyone who wants to make cordage from plant fibres is best served by a course with knowledgeable instruction. It also involves identifying plants reliably and following local rules on foraging – a description alone cannot replace that.

At home, take a few leftover pieces of cord and practise both ways of securing an end. Briefly melt a synthetic end and watch how a smooth cap forms. Whip a thicker rope end with thin twine until the wrapping sits so tight that it cannot be pushed along.

Then practise coiling neatly: gather the line in even loops and secure it with the end so that it does not tangle. Let wet lines dry loosely in the air, not on a heater or by the fire. If you treat your cords this way, they last a long time and you always know what condition they are in.