Clove hitch

The clove hitch consists of two turns in the same direction around the object. Between them the rope crosses diagonally, forming an X on the outside. The end runs under the second turn and leaves in the opposite direction to the standing part. Under load the standing part presses the end against the object and nips it.

Its holding power comes almost entirely from friction on the object. That has two consequences: first, it depends heavily on the object's diameter and surface – it holds better on rough bark than on a smooth metal pipe. Second, it fades when the load drops or changes direction. The knot can then roll around the object, with the end working its way out bit by bit.

From the front you see a neat X linking the two turns. Both ends – standing part and working end – emerge from under the X, one to the left and one to the right, in opposite directions. The two turns lie close together and snug on the object.

If you see two parallel curves instead of the X, and both ends come out on the same side between the turns, it is a cow hitch (lark's head): the second turn went the opposite way. The cow hitch has its own uses but holds noticeably worse here.

To set it, pull end and standing part at the same time. Leave the tail long enough, especially if you still want to add backup hitches.

The clove hitch shines for anything quick, temporary and easy to adjust: hanging a line briefly on a post, correcting a position on a pole, starting or finishing a lashing of poles. Because it can also be tied in the bight in the middle of a rope and dropped over a post end, you don't even need the rope end.

On its own it is unsuitable for flapping lines or intermittent loads, on very smooth or thin objects, and for pull that runs strongly along the object. For a guyline working in the wind overnight, a backed-up clove hitch, a round turn and two half hitches, or a taut-line hitch is the better choice.

The most important rule: the clove hitch is not a sole attachment for loads that must not fall or blow away. In such cases back it up with one or two half hitches of the end around the standing part. That takes a few seconds and stops the end working out.

Check lines tied with a clove hitch regularly, especially after wind or when something has moved. A knot that has already rotated a little is a warning sign. None of the knots in this atlas is meant for life-safety use – not for climbing, abseiling, rescue or holding and lifting people. Life-safety use only after proper training with certified equipment.

Practise on a broom handle or chair leg: once around, cross diagonally over the standing part, second turn in the same direction, end under the second turn. Then practise the in-the-bight method: lay two identical loops side by side, slide the second behind the first and drop both over the end of the handle. Afterwards pull once with a jerk and once steadily, and watch how differently it reacts.

Its German name comes from ratlines, the short cross lines in the shrouds of sailing ships that were made fast with it. It is a genuinely useful but often overrated knot – standard knot references stress that on its own it is not a secure attachment.