Carving simple camp tools: tent pegs and a pot hanger

A peg holds in two ways: the point sits in the ground, and the friction of the soil against the wood stops it from being pulled out. The notch keeps the line from slipping off upwards. That is why on a peg the notch faces downwards, towards the point – the line pulls into the notch instead of out of it.

A pot hanger transfers the pot's weight via a hook or notch to a pole or tripod. On a branch with a short side branch, the side branch serves as a natural hook. On a notched stick you cut several notches one above the other and can hang the pot higher or lower – the closer to the embers, the hotter.

The notch itself comes from two cuts: a vertical stop cut that severs the fibres crosswise, and an angled cut that runs up towards it. The stop cut makes sure the angled cut ends exactly where you want instead of tearing further into the wood.

The wood decides the result. Sound, dry dead wood without rot or cracks is ideal. Rotten wood crumbles when driven in or breaks under the pot. Freshly cut green wood is easy to carve, but you usually may not cut it at all, and it warps as it dries. For pegs, pieces about thumb to wrist thick and forearm length or shorter work well.

The point should not taper too finely. A very thin point snaps off on the first stone in the ground. A sturdy, rather blunt point is better. The head of the peg should be lightly chamfered all round so that it does not split when you drive it in.

Drive pegs with a wooden club, not the hatchet. In frozen or very stony ground wooden pegs break easily. There, stones on the line or metal pegs brought from home work better.

When carving the point, brace the workpiece angled downwards on a firm support, such as a tree stump or chopping block, and carve away from your body. Never work between your knees or over your thigh, and never put the holding hand in front of the edge. The stop cut is often safer with a saw than with a knife. With heavy bleeding, press firmly on the wound and call the local emergency number (112 in the EU).

A wooden pot hanger can char and suddenly give way. Use it only over embers or small flames, check before each use that it holds, and never leave the pot hanging unattended. Boiling water causes severe scalds. Test the hanger first with the empty pot and then with a little water over small embers.

Collecting wood and making fires are restricted or prohibited in many places. Check local rules and wildfire warnings before you even begin.

Carved pegs are a good replacement when one gets lost or breaks. They hold reasonably in soft forest soil but less well than metal pegs in hard ground. A wooden pot hanger is handy at a permitted fireplace but does not replace a stove where fires are banned.

In many protected areas and forests cutting wood is not allowed. There, spare pegs brought from home and a stove are the better solution. You can still practise the carving itself – at home with bought wood or with wood the owner has given you permission to use.

Start with a peg. It is small, quick to finish and contains both basic cuts. When making the notch, be careful not to set the stop cut too deep – otherwise the peg becomes too weak at that point and breaks when you drive it in.

Once the pegs come out well, move on to a notched stick with several notches. It trains you to cut the notches evenly and cleanly. Both pieces are good practice for the carving grips you will later need for spoon carving or camp building too.