Sawing on a sawhorse – improvised too

Wood resting on two points sags slightly in the middle under its own weight. It is compressed at the top and stretched at the bottom. If you saw from above right into that middle, the cut squeezes together and pinches the blade. The saw gets stuck, you push harder, and the blade can bend or jump out.

If instead the wood overhangs the support, the free end hangs down. Then the cut is pulled apart at the top and opens by itself. So the horse decides where the load sits – and therefore whether the saw runs freely. That applies not only to a sawhorse but to any wood you rest on something.

An X-horse is made of two pairs of poles, each crossed into an X and lashed. The upper forks of the X hold the wood, and a cross pole lower down joins the two Xs so that they do not tip apart.

The horse must stand firmly. Lash the crossings tightly with a square or shear lashing, set the two Xs about half a metre apart, and the low cross pole stops it from wobbling. A wobbly horse is more dangerous than none at all. On uneven or slippery ground, find a better spot. As a simple alternative, a thick lying log can serve as the support.

Start the cut with two or three light back strokes until a small groove forms. Then saw with long, steady strokes, using as much of the blade's length as possible. There is no need to press – the teeth do the work. Pressing tires you faster and is more likely to bend the blade.

Near the end, lightly support the overhanging piece so that it does not break off early and splinter. The free hand holds the wood on the side of the horse that does not fall away, well clear of the cut.

A typical sawing injury happens when the saw jumps while starting the cut and hits the hand beside it. So do not use your thumb as a guide right next to the blade; start the cut with careful back strokes. A cut-resistant glove on the holding hand can help as well.

Cut-off pieces drop. Keep your feet out of the drop zone and wear sturdy footwear. Very thick logs do not belong on an improvised horse, because it can tip over.

When two people work together, one saws and the other holds the long end at a distance. Agree beforehand who gives which commands. Nobody helps with a hand near the blade. A first-aid kit is within reach; with heavy bleeding, press firmly on the wound and call the local emergency number (112 in the EU).

A horse is worth it when you want to saw more than a few pieces, for example when making firewood for several days in camp. It spares your back, the saw and your hands. For two or three thin branches, a lying log or snapping them by hand is often enough.

Only saw wood you are allowed to use: dead wood where permitted, or wood with the landowner's permission. Living trees stay standing. Also check local rules for the fire you need the wood for. When leaving camp, take the horse down, undo the lashings and scatter the poles again.

Sawhorses have been used for cutting firewood for centuries, and the principle is the same everywhere: wood firm, hands away from the blade, load placed so that the cut opens. Once you have understood this principle, you immediately see why a saw binds and can reposition the wood accordingly.

Look after your saw too: a clean, dry blade with sharp teeth works much more easily. Fold folding saws straight after use so that nobody reaches into the teeth.