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Technique

Shear lashing

Binds two poles side by side – either to extend them or as shear legs spread into an A shape. The basis for A-frames and ridge supports.

Difficulty
Basic
Effort
a few minutes
Risk level
Practical skill
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Explained simply

The shear lashing binds two poles lying side by side. Afterwards you can spread them like scissors or a pair of compasses into a big “A”. Two such A-frames can, for example, carry a line for a tarp when there are no suitable trees nearby.

The trick is the right amount of tension: if you wrap too tightly, the poles cannot be spread. If you wrap too loosely, everything wobbles afterwards. When you spread the poles, the lashing tightens by itself, a bit like a clip snapping shut.

An A-frame on its own can topple sideways or slide out on slippery ground. Secure the feet and add guylines to the sides.

How it works

The wraps run around both poles lying side by side. Frapping turns between the poles pull these wraps together. Because the wraps are deliberately not fully tight, some play remains so the poles can be spread later.

As you spread them, the poles rotate against each other at the lashing and tension the wraps. The cord goes taut, presses the wood together, and the lashing grips. The further you spread, the greater the tension – up to the point where the poles will not open any further. To extend two poles, on the other hand, you wrap tightly in two places with a generous overlap, because nothing needs to spread there.

How to recognise a good lashing

Before spreading, the wraps should lie neatly side by side without crossing, and be just loose enough that you can open the poles with a bit of force. The frapping turns sit between the poles, around the wraps. Start and finish are secured with a clove hitch – one on each pole.

After spreading, the lashing should sit firm and the top of the A should no longer twist. If the A opens out completely flat, the wraps were too loose. If it barely opens, they were too tight. Getting it right takes a little practice – expect to retie it the first few times.

Typical mistakes and how it fails

The two tension mistakes are the most common: too tight, so the poles cannot be spread, or too loose, so the lashing does not grip when spread. A third, often overlooked mistake has nothing to do with the lashing: legs that are not secured against sliding.

An A-frame is fairly stable in its own plane, but it can easily topple sideways – like a ladder standing on only two points. On slippery or hard ground the legs can slide outwards, the A gets flatter and the load can come down. That is why an A-frame needs side guying and secured feet.

When it makes sense – and when not

The shear lashing is the basis for A-frames that carry a ridgepole or ridgeline – for example for a tarp when there are no trees at a suitable distance. With two tight lashings, two short poles can also be extended into one long one.

It is not meant for right-angle joints; the square lashing is for that. Load-bearing structures for people should not be built without expert assessment. Life-safety use only after proper training with certified equipment.

Safety: what to watch out for

Always set up an A-frame so it cannot fall on you while you raise it. Dig the feet in slightly or brace them with stones, and guy it out to both sides before you put the load on.

Do not stand under a load hanging from an A-frame. After wind or rain, check that the feet are still firm and the lashing still holds. Local rules apply to cutting poles.

Step by step

Shear lashing

Step 1 of 4

Start

Lay both poles side by side and tie a clove hitch around one of them.

  1. 1

    Start

    Lay both poles side by side and tie a clove hitch around one of them.

  2. 2

    Wraps

    Wrap several times around both poles – not too tight if they are to be spread later.

  3. 3

    Frapping turns

    Two frapping turns between the poles around the wraps.

  4. 4

    Finish and spread

    Finish with a clove hitch on the other pole. Then spread the legs into an A.

No reviewed video is available for this technique yet.

Common mistakes

  • Wrapped too tight so the poles cannot be spread
  • Wrapped too loose so the lashing does not grip when spread
  • Legs not secured against sliding

Quick view

Materials

  • Sturdy sticks / poles

    Do not cut live wood where prohibited.

  • Rope

    Never use unknown or damaged rope for life-safety purposes.

  • Thin twine(optional)

    Low breaking strength – light loads only.

Suitable for

  • An A-frame to support a ridgepole or ridgeline
  • Extending two short poles into a long one (with two lashings)

Not suitable for

  • Load-bearing structures for people without expert assessment
  • Right-angle joints

Prerequisites

  • Clove hitch

Safety

  • An A-frame can topple sideways or its legs can slide out on slippery ground. Secure or dig in the feet and add guylines.

How it works

Fairly loose wraps around both poles leave play so the poles can be spread later; frapping turns between the poles cinch the wraps. When the poles are spread, the lashing tightens and grips.

Advantages

  • Simple
  • Makes stable A-frames
  • Needs little cord

Disadvantages

  • The right tension takes practice
  • An A-frame alone is unstable sideways

Deep knowledge

Background

The shear lashing is the classic lashing for shear legs – two spread poles that carry a load or a ridgepole. Scouting handbooks describe it alongside the square, diagonal and tripod lashings.

For tarp shelters without suitable trees, an A-frame at each end can carry a ridgeline.

Variants

For extending
To extend, overlap the two poles generously and lash them tightly in two places.

Common mistakes

  • Wrapped too tight so the poles cannot be spread
  • Wrapped too loose so the lashing does not grip when spread
  • Legs not secured against sliding

Limits and risks

  • An A-frame needs side guying.

Material alternatives

Derived from material properties: a substitute must have all relevant properties. Observe the notes on the substitute.

Rope
Paracord (Not a climbing or safety rope.)
Thin twine
Rope (Never use unknown or damaged rope for life-safety purposes.), Paracord (Not a climbing or safety rope.), Accessory cord (Use only certified cord after training for life-safety purposes.), Webbing (tubular webbing) (Inspect knotted webbing before every use.), Jute or sisal twine (bought) (Low strength, absorbs water and rots – light loads and practice only.), Tree straps (Load only within the manufacturer's limits.)

Results come exclusively from structured entries. No improvised instructions are generated.

Sources

  1. [1]

    Boy Scouts of America: Scouts BSA Handbook

    Shear lashing and A-frames

Rev. 1 · Updated 2026-10-10