Choosing and preparing a safe fire site

A campfire endangers its surroundings in three ways: upwards through flames and hot air that can ignite overhanging branches; sideways through sparks and falling embers that reach dry grass, leaves, tents or gear; and downwards through heat that penetrates the ground. A good fire site protects in all three directions.

The wind decides where sparks fly. Even a light breeze can carry glowing particles many metres. That is why tent, tarp and woodpile never belong on the side the wind is blowing towards. If the wind picks up strongly, even a small fire is dangerous.

The ground is especially treacherous. On peat, bog, thick needle or leaf litter and root-laced soil, embers can creep unnoticed into the ground and smoulder there for hours or days. Later they can start a fire in a completely different spot. Such ground is avoided for fires – or cleared down to bare mineral soil.

Which rules apply differs widely between countries, regions and landowners and changes with season and drought. Responsible parties include landowners, the municipality, the forestry authority or the management of a protected area. This atlas therefore gives no distance regulations or laws – always check the local rules.

Many countries publish information on the current wildfire danger; in Germany, for example, the German Weather Service with its wildfire danger index. Such information only gives a rough picture and does not replace your own judgement: if the ground is bone-dry and the grass crackles, restraint is wise even when no ban is in force.

If in doubt: no fire. A stove is often the better choice for heating water – but there are sometimes restrictions for those too. Fire pans protect the ground, but they are usually also covered by a fire ban.

Where available, use an existing fire pit or fire ring. It is usually the intended spot, and the surroundings are not damaged in a new place. If you must choose a spot yourself, look for an open, somewhat sheltered place on sand, gravel, rock or mineral soil, with no overhanging branches and a large distance from tent, trees, deadwood and dry grass.

Clear away everything flammable all around – leaves, needles, twigs – until bare soil shows. On meadows you can lift the turf, set it aside and replace it after putting the fire out. Plan the fire small: it should only be as big as you need for cooking or warmth.

A ring of dry stones can hold embers together. But it does not replace supervision. And before you light anything, place water (pot, canister) and a small shovel or a sturdy stick within reach.

Do not take stones from streams or waterlogged stones for the fire ring. Water in their pores can turn to steam when heated and make the stone crack or burst; fragments can fly. Use dry stones and never put wet stones directly into the fire.

Fires, embers, charcoal and stoves never belong inside a tent, vehicle, cave, snow shelter or enclosed room. Burning produces carbon monoxide. This gas is invisible and odourless and can cause unconsciousness and death without any warning.

If a fire still gets out of control and cannot be put out at once, do not try to fight it alone. Get yourself and others to safety, moving crosswise to the direction it is spreading and away from the wind, and call the local emergency number (112 in the EU).

Many wildfires that start from campfires have simple causes: an unsuitable spot, sparks blown by the wind, or embers that were not completely put out. A carefully chosen fire site prevents the first two causes before the first match is even lit.

Leave No Trace principles recommend making fires only where appropriate, using existing fire rings and keeping fires small. When you leave, the spot should look as much as possible as it did before – with extinguished, cold ash and the turf put back.