Fire plough

Like all friction methods, the fire plough turns movement into heat. The hard stick tip rubs under strong pressure in the groove of the softer base wood. Wood fibres are worn off and heated.

The fast back-and-forth strokes push the wood dust to the end of the groove. There it piles up, the dust insulates itself and heat builds up until it starts to smoulder. Unlike the bow drill, there is no notch; the groove itself and its end do that job.

For enough heat to build up, the base wood must be very dry and softer than the plough stick. If it is damp, the heat goes into evaporating water and no ember forms.

Lay the base wood firmly on the ground so it does not slide, and rub a groove into it with the stick tip or carve one lightly first. At the end of the groove, place a piece of bark as an ember base. The tinder bundle lies ready beside it.

Hold the stick with both hands at a shallow angle and push it firmly and evenly back and forth in the groove – slowly at first, then faster and faster. Long, even strokes are better than short, hectic ones. Make sure the dust collects at the end of the groove instead of being pushed out of the groove by the stick.

When the dust at the end of the groove glows, transfer it on its base into the tinder bundle and blow it to flame. Many failed attempts are normal – even for the practised.

The fire plough suits dry, warm regions above all, and skill training. Its advantage: it needs hardly any carving and no cord. Its drawback: it costs an extreme amount of strength in a short time.

In damp conditions, for exhausted people and as the only method in an emergency it is unsuitable. Friction fire is not a reliable emergency plan, because it succeeds only with suitable, dry wood and a lot of practice. Anyone who is cold or exhausted loses valuable energy with a failed attempt. That is why at least two modern ignition sources always belong in the pack.

The stick can slip during the forceful strokes. Keep fingers, knees and feet out of its path and kneel so that you do not fall forward if it slips. Splinters in the palms are possible; a pair of sturdy gloves or well-smoothed wood helps.

The method is physically very demanding. Take breaks, drink enough and stop when you notice the effort exhausting you. As with any fire: check the local rules and the wildfire danger beforehand; fire bans apply to practice fires too.

The fire plough is known above all from the Pacific region. Survival manuals describe it as a simple but exhausting friction method.

Like all friction methods, it is a training skill that teaches respect for fire and an understanding of materials – not a substitute for carried ignition sources. Anyone who compares the bow drill, hand drill and fire plough soon notices: in the end, what decides success with all three is dry, suitable wood.