Marlinspike hitch
A quick, temporary knot that holds a toggle (stick, marlinspike, screwdriver) on a cord. It lets you pull thin cord hard without it cutting into your hands. Remove the toggle and it falls apart at once.
- a few seconds
Explained simply
The marlinspike hitch is a trick for putting a handle on a thin cord. You make a small loop in the cord and push a stick through it so that it traps the cord. Now you can pull on the stick instead of the thin cord – it will not cut into your hands.
The special thing: if you pull the stick out again, the knot is simply gone. Nothing is left behind. That is why it is perfect when you need to pull hard for a moment while tying, for example when tightening a lashing of cord and poles.
Safety: only use a sturdy stick. If it breaks while you pull, hands and cord snap back. And pull steadily, not in jerks.
How it works
You form a loop in the cord and lay it flat on the part of the cord leading to the load. This standing part is then visible through the loop. The toggle is pushed over one side of the loop, under the standing part and out over the other side. So the toggle lies over the loop and under the standing part.
When pull comes on, the cord presses the toggle against the loop, and the loop traps the standing part against the toggle. Everything holds everything else in place. Without the toggle there is nothing to keep the cord in shape – which is why the hitch falls apart the moment you pull out the stick.
How to recognise a correctly tied hitch
The toggle is right when it lies across the loop and the standing part visibly runs over the toggle. When you pull gently on the toggle, the cord should close snugly around it and it should not pull out as long as there is tension on the cord. There is no tail to trim; instead the toggle should stick out far enough beyond the loop on both sides.
To set it, pull slowly on the toggle until the cord lies snug. Only then pull hard. Check that the toggle stays straight and does not bend. A toggle that already flexes under moderate pull is too thin.
Typical mistakes and how the hitch fails
The most common mistake: the toggle is pushed only through the loop, not under the standing part. Then it is not trapped and pulls out on the first tug, and the cord closes into a simple noose. The second mistake is a toggle that is too thin or rotten and breaks under load.
It can also fail if the toggle shifts under pull and works its way sideways out of the loop. That is why it should stick out well on both sides. Bear in mind: the hitch is only as strong as the toggle. If you notice you need a great deal of force, it often helps more to take up the cord in several stages instead of doing it all at once.
When it makes sense – and when not
Its main job is tightening: with lashings, whippings or wraps of thin cord, you can pull each round harder without cutting into your fingers. It is also handy as a handle on thin cord for pulling. It is also known as rungs of a simple rope ladder for objects – but not for people.
It is not a permanent attachment, because it only holds while the toggle is in place. It is unsuitable for high loads where the toggle could break. And for anything that carries or secures people: life-safety use only after proper training with certified equipment.
Good to know
The name comes from the marlinspike, a pointed tool sailors use for splicing. With exactly this tool as a toggle, they pulled thin twine hard when whipping and serving ropes. In camp a piece of hard, sound wood replaces the marlinspike; at home a screwdriver or a sturdy pen works too.
When you pull hard, stand so that you will not fall backwards if the toggle breaks or slips out, and keep your face out of the line of pull. Gloves protect your hands further.
Step by step
The interactive diagram for this knot is in technical illustration review and will only be shown after approval. The written instructions are available.
- 1
Form a loop
Form a loop in the cord.
- 2
Loop over the standing part
Lay the loop flat on the part of the cord leading to the load, so that this part is visible through the loop.
- 3
Insert the toggle
Push the toggle over one side of the loop, under the standing part lying within it and out over the other side.
- 4
Pull
Pull on the toggle; the cord locks around it. To release, withdraw the toggle.
Common mistakes
- Passing the toggle only through the loop, not under the standing part – it then pulls out
- Using a toggle that is too thin or rotten
Quick view
Materials
Thin twine
Low breaking strength – light loads only.
Sturdy sticks / poles
Do not cut live wood where prohibited.
Paracord
Not a climbing or safety rope.
Suitable for
- Pulling lashings or whippings tight
- A handle on thin cord for pulling
- Rungs of a simple rope ladder for objects (not people)
Not suitable for
- Permanent attachment
- High loads where the toggle could break
Prerequisites
- Forming a loop
Safety
- If the toggle breaks or slips under pull, hands and cord snap back. Use only sturdy toggles and do not jerk.
How it works
A loop is laid over the standing part and the toggle is pushed through so that it traps the standing part within the loop. Pull presses toggle and cord together. When the toggle is withdrawn, no knot remains.
Advantages
- Releases instantly
- Spares your hands when pulling tight
- Leaves no knot behind
Disadvantages
- Holds only while the toggle is in place
- Not for high loads
Deep knowledge
Background
The name comes from the marlinspike, a pointed sailor's tool used for splicing. With this hitch sailors could pull thin twine hard when whipping and serving.
In camp a piece of wood replaces the marlinspike, e.g. when pulling lashings tight.
Common mistakes
- Passing the toggle only through the loop, not under the standing part – it then pulls out
- Using a toggle that is too thin or rotten
Limits and risks
- Only as strong as the toggle.
Load and limits
Limited by the strength of the toggle. Every knot reduces a rope's breaking strength because tight bends load the fibres unevenly. How much depends on material, construction, diameter and test method; no single figures are given here on purpose.
Material alternatives
Derived from material properties: a substitute must have all relevant properties. Observe the notes on the substitute.
- Thin twine
- Rope (Never use unknown or damaged rope for life-safety purposes.), Paracord (Not a climbing or safety rope.), Accessory cord (Use only certified cord after training for life-safety purposes.), Webbing (tubular webbing) (Inspect knotted webbing before every use.), Jute or sisal twine (bought) (Low strength, absorbs water and rots – light loads and practice only.), Tree straps (Load only within the manufacturer's limits.)
- Paracord
- Rope (Never use unknown or damaged rope for life-safety purposes.)
Results come exclusively from structured entries. No improvised instructions are generated.
Sources
Clifford W. Ashley – Doubleday, Doran & Co. (1944): The Ashley Book of Knots
Marlinspike hitch
Geoffrey Budworth (1997): The Complete Book of Knots
Marlinspike hitch as a tightening aid