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Bushcraft and craft
Tools, wood, fibres, repair
SurviveBetter · As of 2026-10-12 · 22 entries
Traditional skills with natural materials and simple tools – tool safety first.
01 · Wood · Expert review pending
Carving simple camp tools: tent pegs and a pot hanger
With a knife and saw, a piece of dead wood can be turned into spare tent pegs and a simple pot hanger for the fireplace. At their core both need only two basic cuts: a point and a notch. If you know the carving grips, you will have usable results in half an hour.
Always carve notches and points away from the body and never over the thigh. Never put the holding hand in front of the edge. With heavy bleeding press firmly on the wound and call the local emergency number (112 in the EU).
A wooden pot hanger can char and give way. Use it only over embers or small flames, check its hold before each use and never leave the pot hanging unattended – boiling water causes severe scalds.
Collecting wood and making fires are restricted or prohibited in many places. Check local rules and wildfire warnings.
Materials
Knife (fixed or locking blade)
Folding saw
Sturdy sticks / poles – Sound, dry dead wood, about thumb to wrist thick
Cut-resistant glove(optional)
Steps
1
Choose the wood
Use sound, dry dead wood without rot or cracks that is lying on the ground and may be collected. Rotten wood breaks.
2
Saw to length
For pegs, pieces about forearm length or shorter; for the pot hanger a longer piece with a fork or a straight piece for several notches.
3
Carve the point
Brace the workpiece angled downwards on a firm support and carve the point all round with cuts away from the body. Do not make the tip too fine, or it will break.
Never work between the knees or over the leg.
4
Make the notch
About a hand's width below the head, make a vertical stop cut with a saw or knife, then carve at an angle up towards it until a wedge comes out. For a peg the notch faces downwards so the line cannot slip off.
5
Finish the pot hanger
Forked-branch version: trim a branch with a short side branch so that the side branch serves as a hook for the pot handle; at the top, a notch or loop for hanging. Notched-stick version: several notches one above the other allow different heights above the embers.
6
Test
Drive pegs in carefully (with a wooden mallet, not the hatchet) and check their hold. Load the pot hanger first with an empty pot, then with a little water over small embers.
Common mistakes
×Using rotten or green, freshly cut wood
×Carving the notch facing upwards so the line slips off
×Making the point too fine
×Using the pot hanger over high flames
×Carving towards the body
Limits and risks
–No wood species identification
–No load-bearing figures
–Only with permission to use the wood
Sources
[1]
Ray Mears – Hodder & Stoughton (2002): Bushcraft
[2]
Mors L. Kochanski – Lone Pine Publishing: Bushcraft: Outdoor Skills and Wilderness Survival
A tripod made of three poles or an angled pot crane hangs a pot over the fire without standing it in the embers. With an adjustable hook the height – and so the heat – can be regulated. Stability, keeping the poles away from the flames and a secure pot handle are what matter.
A tipping pot of boiling water causes serious scalds. Test the tripod with weight before hanging the pot, keep children and animals away and only lift the pot off the hook with a glove or stick. For large scalds call the local emergency number (112 in the EU).
Poles and lashing must not reach into the flame. Check the lashing regularly – charred cord breaks.
Local rules decide whether and where open fires are allowed – check beforehand.
Materials
Sturdy sticks / poles – Three sturdy dead-wood poles of about equal length
Rope – Natural fibre chars, synthetic melts – keep the lashing well above the flame
Metal pot (stainless steel, aluminium, titanium) – With a firm bail handle
Folding saw
Steps
1
Choose poles
Three dry, straight dead-wood poles about chest to shoulder high. Avoid damp, rotten poles.
2
Lash the tripod
Lay the poles side by side and join them near the top with a tripod lashing. Then stand them up and spread the legs evenly.
3
Hang an adjustable hook
Hang a cord from the crossing point and attach a stick with several hooks or notches to it. Depending on the notch the pot hangs higher or lower.
4
Test
Before use load it with the filled, cold pot and shake the legs. Only then place it over the fire.
5
Alternative: pot crane
Lay a long, strong branch at an angle over the fire, weigh down the rear end with stones or fix it under a peg in the ground and support it at the front on a forked stick.
6
Take down
Dismantle after the fire is out, take the cord with you, scatter the wood.
Common mistakes
×Poles too thin or rotten
×Lashing close to the flame
×Hanging the pot without testing
×Legs on loose ground
×Plastic cord directly above the fire
Limits and risks
–No statement on fire rules for specific places
–Only for ordinary-sized cookware
Sources
[1]
Boy Scouts of America: Scouts BSA Handbook
[2]
Ray Mears – Hodder & Stoughton (2002): Bushcraft
[3]
USDA Forest Service / Ad Council / National Association of State Foresters: Campfire Safety (Smokey Bear wildfire prevention campaign)
A spoon is the classic first project in green woodworking: split a blank, mark the outline, shape it with a knife and hollow the bowl with a hook knife. Work in fresh, soft wood from trees you know for certain or bought as carving stock. The hook knife needs its own safety rules.
The hook knife cuts along a curve and can travel to the holding hand or face when it slips. Plan cuts so the blade exits the wood away from your thumb and body; keep the holding hand behind the edge. With heavy bleeding press firmly on the wound and immediately call the local emergency number (112 in the EU).
Do not carve on the thigh or between the knees.
For eating utensils only use wood whose species is known for certain and considered harmless; if in doubt use bought blanks intended for kitchen utensils. No wood from sprayed or treated trees.
Only cut fresh wood with the owner's permission.
Materials
Knife (fixed or locking blade) – Sharp carving knife with a short blade
Hook knife (spoon knife)
Folding saw
Cut-resistant glove(optional) – For the holding hand
First-aid kit (household)
Steps
1
Get a blank
Split a knot-free piece of fresh wood about forearm length in half (e.g. by batoning). The pith, the soft centre, is removed because cracks start there.
2
Mark the outline
Draw the spoon shape from above and from the side. Make relief cuts with the saw at the transition from bowl to handle.
3
Rough out
Work out the outer shape with the forehand grip, chest lever and thumb push. Always cut downhill with the grain.
4
Hollow the bowl
Hold the spoon firmly and pull the hook knife in short, controlled strokes from the rim to the centre. Keep the holding hand outside the cutting path.
Never pull towards an unprotected thumb in front of the blade.
5
Finishing cuts
Make smooth, clean facets with a very sharp blade. Cleanly cut surfaces are smoother than sanded ones.
6
Dry slowly
Let the spoon dry for several days in a cool, shady place, not by a stove or in the sun. Then optionally treat it with food-safe oil.
Common mistakes
×Leaving the pith in the blank
×Cutting against the grain
×Dull hook knife
×Hollowing towards the thumb
×Drying the spoon by the stove
Limits and risks
–No identification of wood species
–Does not replace a carving course
–No statement on the food safety of individual woods
Sources
[1]
Wille Sundqvist – The Taunton Press: Swedish Carving Techniques
With straight dead-wood poles and cord you can lash a simple table or bench without nails: two trestles of crossed poles, joined by cross bars, with a layer of thin poles as the surface. This gets cooking, washing up and tools off the ground – and can be taken apart without a trace when breaking camp.
Rotten poles break without warning. Bend and check every pole for cracks and soft wood before using it; load the finished bench carefully before sitting on it.
Do not build a table right next to the fire – dry wood and twine catch fire easily.
Materials
Sturdy sticks / poles – Straight, sound dead-wood poles
Jute or sisal twine (bought) – Natural twine that rots if scraps are left
Folding saw
Steps
1
Gather material
Four legs of equal length, two long rails, one diagonal brace and many thin, straight poles for the top – only fallen deadwood where permitted.
2
Lash the trestles
Cross two legs in an X and join them with a square lashing. The height of the crossing sets the table height.
3
Add the rails
Stand both trestles up and lay or lash a long rail into the fork on each side.
4
Brace diagonally
Fix a pole diagonally between the trestles with diagonal lashings so the frame cannot fold sideways.
5
Lay the top
Lay thin poles tightly side by side across the rails and tie them at the ends with a continuous cord.
6
Test and dismantle
Rock it, increase the load gradually and tighten the lashings. When breaking camp remove all cord and scatter the wood.
Common mistakes
×Using rotten poles
×No diagonal brace
×Lashings without frapping turns – they loosen
×Leaving scraps of cord in the woods
Limits and risks
–No load ratings – test every structure yourself
–No raised structures for people
Sources
[1]
Boy Scouts of America: Scouts BSA Handbook
[2]
Leave No Trace Center for Outdoor Ethics: The Seven Principles of Leave No Trace (Principle 5: Minimize Campfire Impacts)
Folded bark container – only from bark of dead, fallen wood
Loose, still flexible bark from fallen, dead trunks can be folded into a simple container and closed with wooden clips or cord – for tinder, collected items or small parts. Bark is never peeled from living trees. If folding does not work the bark is too brittle; then leave it where it is.
Peeling living trees damages them severely and is forbidden in many places. Use only loose bark from wood that is already dead and fallen, and check local rules.
Bark slips easily when cut. Cut on a firm surface and away from the body.
Materials
Knife (fixed or locking blade) – Or another fixed-blade knife
Jute or sisal twine (bought)(optional)
Sturdy sticks / poles – Thin split twigs as clips
Steps
1
Find bark
Look on fallen, dead trunks for bark that is already coming away and is still tough. Take nothing from standing or living trees.
2
Cut a rectangle
Cut a rectangle from the loose bark, about the size of the desired base plus the wall height all round.
3
Make it pliable
Soak dry bark in water or warm it carefully over warm air until it bends – do not hold it in the flame.
4
Fold the corners
Lightly score the base lines with the back of the knife, fold the sides up and lay the corners as triangular folds against the wall.
5
Clip
Split twigs and slide them over the folds as clips, or wrap with cord.
6
Let it dry
Let the container dry in shape; then retighten the clips if needed.
Common mistakes
×Pulling bark off a living tree
×Folding brittle bark – it cracks
×Cutting into the base – it leaks
×Warming bark in the flame
Limits and risks
–No tree identification
–No instructions for cooking vessels made of bark
Sources
[1]
Ray Mears – Hodder & Stoughton (2002): Bushcraft
[2]
Leave No Trace Center for Outdoor Ethics: The Seven Principles of Leave No Trace (Principle 5: Minimize Campfire Impacts)
Cord and rope in camp: choice, securing ends, care
Cord is one of the most versatile aids in camp – for guylines, washing lines, repairs and bundles. To keep it reliable it needs secured ends, careful storage and regular checks for abrasion, sun damage and moisture. Camp and craft cords are never meant for climbing or safety-critical uses.
Never use paracord, washing line or craft cord for climbing, abseiling or securing people. That requires tested, standard-compliant equipment and training.
When heat-sealing synthetic ends, molten plastic can drip and cause burns. Do not shape it with your fingers while hot; do not work inside a tent.
A line that breaks under tension can snap back. Do not stand in line with tensioned lines, and make tensioned lines visible (trip hazard).
Materials
Paracord(optional)
Thin twine(optional) – Also for whipping rope ends
Rope(optional)
Lighter, matches or ferro rod(optional) – Lighter for heat-sealing synthetic ends
Knife (fixed or locking blade)
Steps
1
Choose the right cord
For guylines use low-stretch, UV-resistant lines; for lashing and bundling flexible cord; near fire avoid synthetics that melt. Use only bought, labelled products when strength matters.
2
Secure the ends
Synthetic cord: hold the end briefly in a flame until the fibres fuse. Natural fibre or thick rope: wrap the end tightly with thin twine (whipping) or secure it with tape.
Do not touch molten plastic.
3
Protect from abrasion
Where a line runs over edges, bark or rock, pad it with a piece of cloth or tubing. Do not tension lines over sharp edges.
4
Inspect regularly
Run the line through your hands before and after use: hard, glazed, frayed, discoloured or thin spots mean replace or cut out.
5
Store dry and tidy
Untie knots, let wet lines dry loosely (not on a heater or by the fire), then coil them and store them in the dark.
Common mistakes
×Using camp cord for climbing or securing people
×Leaving ends unfinished
×Storing wet natural-fibre rope damp
×Leaving lines hanging in the sun permanently
×Leaving knots tightened for months
Limits and risks
–No strength figures – manufacturer's information applies
–No plant identification for natural fibres
–Not for life-safety applications
Sources
[1]
Geoffrey Budworth (1997): The Complete Book of Knots
[2]
Clifford W. Ashley – Doubleday, Doran & Co. (1944): The Ashley Book of Knots
[3]
Mors L. Kochanski – Lone Pine Publishing: Bushcraft: Outdoor Skills and Wilderness Survival
Twisting two-ply cord (reverse wrap) – practise with jute or sisal
In the reverse wrap two strands of fibre are each twisted in one direction and laid around each other in the opposite direction. The counter-tension holds the cord together. Practise with bought jute or sisal twine that you unravel – that way you learn the technique without plant identification. The result is suitable for light ties, not for loads.
Home-made cord has an unknown and usually low strength. Never use it for people, climbing or loads above people.
Materials
Jute or sisal twine (bought) – Unravelled into loose fibres
Steps
1
Prepare fibres
Unravel a piece of jute or sisal twine and arrange the fibres into a loose bundle.
2
Fold the bundle
Divide the bundle unevenly (one strand a little longer), fold it in the middle and hold the fold between thumb and index finger.
3
Twist the upper strand
Twist the strand furthest from you a few times in one direction (e.g. clockwise).
4
Wrap in reverse
Lay the twisted strand over the other one against the direction of twist. Now the other strand is on top – repeat.
5
Add fibres
When a strand gets thin, lay in new fibres with an overlap. The uneven split means the joins are staggered.
6
Secure the end
Secure the end with an overhand knot or whipping.
Common mistakes
×Laying both strands in the same direction
×Joins at the same point
×Twisting too loosely
Limits and risks
–No plant identification
–No strength figures
Sources
[1]
Ray Mears – Hodder & Stoughton (2002): Bushcraft
[2]
Mors L. Kochanski – Lone Pine Publishing: Bushcraft: Outdoor Skills and Wilderness Survival
A taut line between two trees is the backbone of many camps: a ridgeline for the tarp, a drying line and a hanger for gear. It is built with tree-protecting straps, a fixed knot on one side and a tensionable, quick-release connection on the other. Friction hitches on the line act as sliding hooks.
A camp line is not a safety system. Never hang people from it, balance on it or cross water with it – that requires tested equipment and training.
Lines at head or neck height are a trip and injury hazard in the dark. Do not string them across paths and mark them with bright tape.
Look up before rigging: do not use trees with dead branches or dead trees.
Materials
Accessory cord – Or paracord, long enough
Webbing (tubular webbing) – As tree protection
Accessory carabiner (not a safety device)(optional)
Steps
1
Choose trees
Two healthy, sturdy trees, not dead, with no dead branches overhead, away from paths.
2
Fit tree protection
Put a length of webbing around each trunk instead of wrapping the cord directly around the bark.
3
Fixed end
On the first side attach the line to the strap with a bowline or a loop.
4
Tension
On the second side tension with a trucker's hitch or taut-line hitch and finish with a slipped hitch so it can be released quickly.
5
Friction hitches as hooks
Fit short loops with Prusik knots on the line; hang tarp corners, a lamp or bags on them and slide them as needed.
6
Mark and dismantle
Mark the line, check it at night and take all straps and scraps of cord with you when breaking camp.
Common mistakes
×Wrapping cord directly around thin bark
×Stringing it across a path
×Pulling the line so tight that it snaps under load
×Knots that cannot be undone when wet
Limits and risks
–No breaking-strength figures – follow the cord manufacturer's data
–Not for people or heavy loads
Sources
[1]
Mors L. Kochanski – Lone Pine Publishing: Bushcraft: Outdoor Skills and Wilderness Survival
[2]
Clifford W. Ashley – Doubleday, Doran & Co. (1944): The Ashley Book of Knots
Most cuts while carving happen when the blade slips and travels to where a hand, leg or another person is. Planning the cutting path in advance, keeping a safety distance, cutting away from the body and mastering a few controlled grips makes work safer and more precise.
Never carve over the thigh or between the legs. Large blood vessels run along the inside of the thigh; a slip can cause life-threatening bleeding. With heavy bleeding press firmly on the wound and call the local emergency number (112 in the EU) immediately.
Keep a safety circle: your outstretched arm plus knife all the way around you – nobody may be inside it. Do not walk or gesture with a knife in your hand.
A dull knife is more dangerous than a sharp one because it needs more force and slips more easily.
Rules on owning and carrying knives differ greatly between countries and places – check local rules.
Materials
Knife (fixed or locking blade) – Fixed or securely locking blade, sharp
Cut-resistant glove(optional) – For the hand holding the workpiece
First-aid kit (household) – Within reach while working
Steps
1
Set up the workspace
Sit firmly with feet apart and elbows free. Hold the workpiece outside the legs, e.g. to the side of the knee or on a chopping block. Check the safety circle.
2
Forehand grip
Handle held firmly in the fist, edge facing away from the body. The arm pushes the blade away from the body while the workpiece is held to the side. For removing material roughly.
Never put the holding hand in front of the edge.
3
Thumb push
The knife hand stays steady while the thumb of the other hand presses on the spine and pushes the blade in small, controlled cuts. For fine work, e.g. notches.
4
Chest lever
Knife close to the chest with the edge facing outwards, workpiece also close to the body. Both hands pull apart as the shoulder blades squeeze together. The movement is short and limits itself.
5
Putting down and breaks
Never put the knife down open or stick it in the ground; return it to the sheath or fold it securely. Take a break when tired.
6
Passing a knife
Pass handle first with the edge away from the recipient; only let go when the other person says "thank you" or confirms they have it.
Common mistakes
×Cutting towards the body or towards the holding hand
×Carving on the thigh
×Using lots of force with a dull knife
×Sticking the knife in the ground or putting it down open
×Working forcefully with a folding knife that does not lock
Limits and risks
–No treatment guidance for cuts beyond basic first aid
–Does not replace a hands-on course
–No legal advice on carrying knives
Sources
[1]
Wille Sundqvist – The Taunton Press: Swedish Carving Techniques
[2]
Ray Mears – Hodder & Stoughton (2002): Bushcraft
[3]
Mors L. Kochanski – Lone Pine Publishing: Bushcraft: Outdoor Skills and Wilderness Survival
For firewood and simple camp tasks a saw is usually the safer choice: it works slowly and with control. A hatchet is faster, but a deflected blow can cause serious injuries. A firm stance, a clear swing area, a chopping block and distance from other people greatly reduce the risks.
A hatchet that glances off or cuts through travels towards the leg and foot. Always work so that the swing path ends in the wood or chopping block in front of the body – never towards the leg. With a serious injury press firmly on the wound and call the local emergency number (112 in the EU).
Nobody may be within the swing area – in every direction, including behind you. Keep clearly more distance than arm length plus tool length.
Before each use check that the head is firmly seated on the handle and that the handle has no cracks. A loose head can fly off.
Cutting living trees and collecting wood are regulated or prohibited in many places – only use dead wood where permitted and check local rules.
Materials
Folding saw
Hatchet or small axe(optional) – Only with experience or under instruction
Sturdy closed shoes – Sturdy, closed footwear
First-aid kit (household)
Steps
1
Check tool and surroundings
Check the head, handle, edge and saw. There must be no branches, lines or people in the way above, beside or behind you. Firm footing, sturdy footwear.
2
Saw where possible
Place the wood on a stable support, keep the free hand well away from the blade and saw with long, steady strokes without forcing. Support the workpiece so that the blade does not bind.
Never put your hand right next to the saw cut.
3
Hatchet only on a chopping block
For splitting, stand the piece of wood on a chopping block, not on the ground. For small wood work kneeling, so that a glancing blow ends in the block or ground in front of the knees.
4
Hands out of the swing path
Never hold the wood with your hand while striking. Stabilise small pieces with a stick or saw them instead.
5
Short, controlled blows
Prefer small, accurate blows to wide swings. Stop when tired – most missed blows happen at the end of a work session.
6
Store safely
Fit the edge guard or fold the saw. Do not leave a hatchet stuck in wood or the block where someone could trip over or reach into it.
Common mistakes
×Splitting on the ground instead of a chopping block
×Holding the wood with your hand
×Wide swings with a small hatchet
×Continuing to use a loose hatchet head
×Other people within the swing area
Limits and risks
–No felling, no chainsaw
–No legal advice on cutting wood
–Does not replace hands-on instruction
Sources
[1]
USDA Forest Service, Missoula Technology and Development Center (Bernie Weisgerber, Bob Beckley) (1999): An Ax to Grind: A Practical Ax Manual
[2]
Ray Mears – Hodder & Stoughton (2002): Bushcraft
[3]
Mors L. Kochanski – Lone Pine Publishing: Bushcraft: Outdoor Skills and Wilderness Survival
A sharp knife cuts with less force and slips less often. Sharpening means removing material evenly at the edge until the bevels from both sides meet in a fine edge. What matters is a consistent angle, feeling for the burr and progressing from coarse to fine.
Keep the fingers of the guiding hand flat and behind the edge. Feel for the burr only across the edge with a fingertip – never along the edge.
Secure the stone so it cannot slip (damp cloth, holder). A slipping stone easily leads to cuts.
After sharpening the knife is much sharper than before – take extra care when using it for the first time.
Materials
Knife (fixed or locking blade)
Sharpening stone (combination coarse/fine)
Cotton cloth / T-shirt(optional) – For wiping blade and stone
Steps
1
Prepare the stone
Soak or oil the stone according to the manufacturer and place it on a flat surface so it cannot slip. Coarse side up if the blade is very dull; otherwise start with the fine side.
2
Find the angle
For knives with a flat Scandinavian grind (Scandi), lay the edge bevel flat on the stone. For other grinds, find the existing angle and hold it consistently.
3
Even strokes
Move the blade over the stone with light pressure as if slicing off a thin layer, covering the whole edge from heel to tip. Count the strokes evenly.
Keep fingers behind the edge.
4
Feel the burr
Stroke across the edge on the opposite side with a fingertip. When a fine burr can be felt along the whole length, this side is done.
5
Switch sides
Same number of strokes on the other side until the burr moves back. Then switch to the fine grit and work both sides with alternating light strokes.
6
Remove the burr and test
Remove the burr with very light strokes or on a leather strop (stropping). Test by cleanly slicing a sheet of paper. Wipe the blade, clean the stone and let it dry.
Common mistakes
×Changing the angle during the stroke (rounds the edge)
×Too much pressure
×Grinding only one part of the edge
×Leaving the burr
×Testing by running a finger along the edge
Limits and risks
–No instructions for power grinders or serrated edges
–Angle figures only as rough guidance
Sources
[1]
Leonard Lee – The Taunton Press (1995): The Complete Guide to Sharpening
Batoning: splitting small wood with a knife and baton
In batoning a sturdy fixed-blade knife is placed on the end grain of a short, thin piece of wood and driven through it with a wooden club (baton). This produces dry kindling from the inside of wet logs – without a hatchet. It only works with a suitable knife, knot-free wood and controlled blows.
Never split wood between your feet or in front of your legs. When the blade breaks through it travels downwards – keep hands, knees and feet to the side, out of that path. With heavy bleeding press firmly on the wound and immediately call the local emergency number (112 in the EU).
Only strike the spine of the blade above the wood, never the handle. Keep the knife level; a twisted blade can break.
Rules on carrying fixed-blade knives differ between countries and places – check local rules.
Materials
Knife (fixed or locking blade) – Fixed blade, full tang, blade clearly longer than the wood diameter
Dry firewood – Short (forearm length or less), thin, as knot-free as possible
Chopping block(optional)
Cut-resistant glove(optional)
Steps
1
Choose a baton
Find a club of dead wood about forearm length that is comfortable to grip. No metal or stones as a striking tool.
2
Prepare the wood
Saw the piece short and stand it on firm ground with the knot-free end up. The diameter should be clearly smaller than the blade length so that the tip sticks out on the far side.
3
Set the blade
Set the blade in the middle of the end grain, along an existing crack if possible. Drive it into the wood with light blows on the spine.
4
Drive the tip
Once the blade is seated, strike the protruding spine near the tip. The handle hand only keeps the blade level and does not push.
Keep the handle hand and body to the side of the striking line.
5
Finish and divide further
Split the halves again until kindling of the desired size is produced. Afterwards clean the blade and check it for damage.
Common mistakes
×Using a folding knife or thin blade
×Wood too thick for the tip to protrude
×Splitting through knots
×Striking the handle
×Resting the wood on the thighs or between the feet
Limits and risks
–Only for small, short pieces of wood
–Knife damage possible – follow manufacturer guidance
–Does not replace hands-on instruction
Sources
[1]
Ray Mears – Hodder & Stoughton (2002): Bushcraft
[2]
Mors L. Kochanski – Lone Pine Publishing: Bushcraft: Outdoor Skills and Wilderness Survival
Safe splitting with an axe rests on three things: a stable chopping block at a suitable height, a wide stance with a clear swing area and a blow that ends in the block, not the leg, when it misses. Reading the wood – cracks, knots, grain – takes less force.
A missed blow or one that breaks through travels towards the shin and foot. Choose a block high enough and stand far enough back that the axe then lands in the block or ground in front of you. With heavy bleeding press firmly on the wound and immediately call the local emergency number (112 in the EU).
Keep the swing zone clear – at least two axe lengths plus arm in every direction. Nobody holds the wood.
If the axe gets stuck, do not swing axe and log together overhead. Free it with a wooden wedge or a second piece instead.
Sturdy footwear, gloves and safety glasses reduce injuries from splinters and missed blows.
Materials
Hatchet or small axe – For logs a long-handled splitting axe; a hatchet only for small wood
Chopping block
Sturdy closed shoes
First-aid kit (household)
Steps
1
Set up the block
Stand a wide, flat-sawn block on firm ground. Its top is about knee height so that a blow ends on the wood with the handle roughly horizontal.
2
Read the wood
Stand the round upright. Look for cracks in the end grain and avoid knots – split parallel to a knot, not across it.
3
Take the stance
Feet shoulder-width apart, distance such that the edge meets the middle of the round with arms extended. Check the space all around.
4
Swing with control
Bring the axe vertically over the centre, the upper hand sliding down to the end of the handle. Power comes from dropping the arms and bending the knees, not from yanking.
After a miss do not chase the swing – reset.
5
Start at the edge
With thick rounds split pieces off the edge first instead of hitting the middle. This takes less force.
6
Clear up
Regularly clear split wood from the work area so nothing is in the way. Cover the axe and do not leave it stuck in the block.
Common mistakes
×Splitting on the ground instead of a block
×Standing too close so that the handle hits the wood
×Forcing through knots
×Continuing with a loose head
×Swinging a stuck axe and log together overhead
Limits and risks
–No felling, no chainsaw
–No legal advice on cutting wood
–Does not replace hands-on instruction
Sources
[1]
USDA Forest Service, Missoula Technology and Development Center (Bernie Weisgerber, Bob Beckley) (1999): An Ax to Grind: A Practical Ax Manual
A sawhorse holds wood at a comfortable height and supported so that the cut opens rather than pinching the blade. This spares your back and the saw and keeps the free hand out of the danger zone. In camp an improvised horse made from two crossed pairs of poles or a lying log is enough.
The free hand holds the wood well away from the cut, ideally on the side of the horse that does not fall away. Start the cut with a few back strokes rather than using the thumb as a guide.
Cut-off pieces drop – keep feet out of the drop zone and wear sturdy footwear.
Materials
Folding saw
Sturdy sticks / poles – Four sturdy poles for an X-horse
Rope(optional) – To lash the crossings
Cut-resistant glove(optional)
Steps
1
Build the horse
Cross two pairs of poles into an X each and lash them (square or shear lashing), set them up about half a metre apart and join them low down with a cross pole. Alternatively use a thick lying log as a support.
2
Load the wood
Lay the wood in the forks so that the part to be cut off overhangs the end freely.
3
Start the cut
Make a kerf with two or three light back strokes, then saw with long, steady strokes. Do not force it – the teeth do the work.
4
Finish cleanly
Near the end lightly support the overhanging piece so it does not tear off and splinter.
5
Take down
Fold the saw, dismantle the horse and undo the lashings when leaving camp.
Common mistakes
×Sawing between two supports so the blade binds
×Using the thumb as a guide right by the blade
×Forcing the saw
×Using a wobbling horse
Limits and risks
–Only for manageable pieces
–Improvised lashings are not meant for load-bearing structures
Sources
[1]
Mors L. Kochanski – Lone Pine Publishing: Bushcraft: Outdoor Skills and Wilderness Survival
Knife, hatchet and saw stay safe if they are cleaned, dried and lightly oiled after every use. Carbon steel rusts quickly, wooden handles dry out or swell and leather sheaths hold moisture. A short care routine prevents damage that only becomes dangerous the next time you use the tool.
Rags with linseed oil or other drying oils can ignite spontaneously. Lay them out flat outdoors to dry or dispose of them in water in a closed metal container.
Always wipe blades from the spine towards the edge or with the cloth on the spine – never run your fingers along the edge.
Do not keep using loose heads or cracked handles with makeshift fixes – repair them properly or replace them.
Materials
Tool oil / care oil
Cotton cloth / T-shirt
Sharpening stone (combination coarse/fine)(optional)
Steps
1
Clean
Remove resin, soil and food residue with warm water or a little washing-up liquid. Resin often comes off with a little oil.
2
Dry
Dry the blade at once, including folding-saw joints. Do not put tools away wet in a sheath or bag.
3
Oil lightly
Put a few drops of oil on a cloth and wipe a very thin film over the metal parts. Use food-safe oil for kitchen knives.
4
Remove surface rust
Rub off light rust with oil and a fine abrasive pad or a blade eraser, then oil again. Deep pitting weakens the edge.
5
Check handle and sheath
Check the handle for cracks and a loose fit; treat dry wooden handles occasionally with linseed oil. Let leather sheaths dry and occasionally treat them with leather care.
6
Store
Store dry, with a blade guard and out of children's reach. Not permanently in leather sheaths – leather can pass moisture and tanning agents to the steel.
Common mistakes
×Putting tools away wet
×Blades in the dishwasher
×Leaving oily rags crumpled up
×"Swelling" loose heads with water instead of repairing them
Limits and risks
–No substitute for manufacturer instructions
–No guide to replacing handles
Sources
[1]
USDA Forest Service, Missoula Technology and Development Center (Bernie Weisgerber, Bob Beckley) (1999): An Ax to Grind: A Practical Ax Manual
[2]
Leonard Lee – The Taunton Press (1995): The Complete Guide to Sharpening
Many injuries happen not while working but on the way: a hatchet without a guard, an open saw, a stumble with an armful of wood. Always carry blades covered and away from the body, move wood in manageable bundles and lift with the legs.
Never walk with an uncovered hatchet, knife or saw in your hand. If you trip you fall onto the blade.
Do not lift heavy logs alone. Lift from the legs with a straight back, keep the load close and do not twist under load.
Materials
Hatchet or small axe – With a blade guard
Folding saw
Rope – For wood bundles
Sturdy work gloves(optional)
Steps
1
Cover blades
Knife in its sheath, saw folded or blade guard fitted, hatchet with its guard on – before every step.
2
Carry the hatchet
Grip the handle near the head, blade down and away from the leg, arm relaxed at your side. Do not carry it on your shoulder.
3
Hand tools over
Hand over handle first and only let go when the other person says "got it".
4
Bundle wood
Bundle poles and branches with a rope and drag or shoulder them. Lift long poles at the front end and let the back drag.
5
Lift properly
Bend the knees, grip the load close to the body and stand up using the legs. Carry heavy pieces with two people.
6
Keep the path clear
Know the path between collecting point and camp, avoid obstacles and put tools down in a fixed place at the destination.
Common mistakes
×Hatchet over the shoulder
×Open knife in the hand while walking
×An armful of wood blocking the view
×Putting tools down in grass where nobody sees them
Limits and risks
–No occupational safety rules for commercial forestry
–No figures for permissible loads
Sources
[1]
USDA Forest Service, Missoula Technology and Development Center (Bernie Weisgerber, Bob Beckley) (1999): An Ax to Grind: A Practical Ax Manual
Whittling teaches children patience, respect for tools and self-confidence – if clear rules apply from the start. These include a safety circle around the carver, sitting rather than walking, cutting away from the body, a suitable knife, soft wood and supervision within reach. Rules first, then the knife.
Children only whittle with supervision within reach. For heavily bleeding cuts apply pressure and call the local emergency number (112 in the EU).
Safety circle: turn around with the arm outstretched holding the closed knife – nobody may enter this circle. Anyone approaching waits until the knife is put down.
Rules on minors owning and carrying knives differ by place – check local rules.
Materials
Knife (fixed or locking blade) – Small fixed or locking blade, sharp
Cut-resistant glove – For the holding hand
First-aid kit (household)
Sturdy sticks / poles – Soft, fresh or easy-to-carve wood
Steps
1
Explain the rules
Discuss calmly beforehand: whittle only seated, away from the body, safety circle, close or sheath the knife to walk, hand it over handle first.
2
Position
Seated, elbows on knees, workpiece outside the legs. Holding hand behind the blade, with a cut-resistant glove.
3
First cuts
Peel bark off a stick and shape a blunt point. Short, shallow cuts rather than force.
4
Small project
Simple items like a toasting stick, a name tag or a tent peg – success within one session.
5
Breaks
Stop when tired or restless. Clean the knife and put it away together.
Camping without a trace: Leave No Trace in practice
A good camp is one you cannot recognise afterwards. The seven Leave No Trace principles help protect nature, wildlife and other visitors: plan ahead, camp on durable surfaces, pack out waste, leave what you find, minimise campfires, respect wildlife and be considerate of others.
No open fire in dry conditions, under a wildfire warning or a fire ban. A carelessly abandoned fire can start a wildfire. In case of fire call the local emergency number (112 in the EU) immediately.
Catholes, washing up and washing well away from water, trails and camps – the Leave No Trace organisation gives about 60 metres (200 feet). This protects drinking water sources from germs.
Do not feed wildlife and store food securely. In regions with bears or other large wildlife, special rules apply – check local rules.
Whether and where wild camping or making a fire is allowed differs greatly between countries and areas – check local rules.
Materials
Rubbish bag (resealable) – For all waste, including food scraps
Small trowel – For catholes, where permitted
Stove(optional) – Lower impact than a campfire
Soap / detergent(optional) – Biodegradable, sparingly and away from water
Steps
1
Plan ahead
Check the area's rules (camping, fires, toilets), check the weather, keep the group small, repack food to reduce packaging waste.
2
Camp on durable surfaces
Use existing campsites or durable surfaces such as rock, gravel, dry grass or sand, at a distance from water. Do not dig trenches or remove vegetation.
3
Dispose of waste properly
Pack everything out, including food scraps and toilet paper where required. Bury human waste in a hole about 15–20 cm (6–8 inches) deep where this is permitted; otherwise pack it out or use existing toilets.
4
Leave what you find
Do not pull up plants, take stones or artefacts, or leave branch structures standing. Do not damage living trees.
5
Minimise campfires
Use a stove instead of a fire. Where fires are allowed: use existing fire rings, keep it small, use only dead wood from the ground, put it out completely and scatter the ash once it is cold.
6
Final check
Before leaving, sweep the site in a line: litter, pegs, cord ends, fire remains. Check the fireplace for residual heat with your hand.
Common mistakes
×Burying or leaving food scraps
×Hiding toilet paper under stones
×Making new fire rings
×Camping and washing up right at the water's edge
×Leaving cord ends and pegs behind
Limits and risks
–No legal advice on wild camping
–Special rules for deserts, glaciers, rivers and bear country not covered
Sources
[1]
Leave No Trace Center for Outdoor Ethics: The Seven Principles of Leave No Trace (Principle 5: Minimize Campfire Impacts)
https://lnt.org
[2]
USDA Forest Service / Ad Council / National Association of State Foresters: Campfire Safety (Smokey Bear wildfire prevention campaign)
Laying out a camp: sleeping, fire, kitchen, toilet, water
A well-laid-out camp separates zones by distance: sleeping area upwind of the fire, kitchen and food away from the tents, toilet far from water and camp, water source kept clean. This prevents spark damage, illness, animal visits and conflict – and protects nature.
Site the toilet and grey water far from water, trails and camp – Leave No Trace gives about 60 m (200 ft, roughly 70 paces). Faeces can contaminate drinking water.
Put the fire site at a distance and downwind of the tents; sparks burn holes in synthetic fabric. Never use fire or stoves inside a tent.
Do not camp under dead branches, in hollows at risk of flooding or in avalanche or rockfall zones.
Materials
Small trowel
Rubbish bag (resealable)
Water for extinguishing (bucket, canister or pot)(optional)
Steps
1
Read the ground
Check wind direction, slope, watercourse, dead branches and paths. Camp on durable, already used ground.
2
Sleeping zone
Choose level ground for the tents, not in hollows, at a distance from the shore.
3
Fire and kitchen zone
Fire or stove downwind of the tents. Store food and rubbish together, wildlife-proof where needed.
4
Toilet zone
Far from water, camp and paths; dig a cathole about 15–20 cm (6–8 in) deep and close it afterwards. Pack out toilet paper where required.
5
Water point
Use one fixed collection point and do not wash there. Scatter grey water away from the shore.
6
Break camp
Take everything with you, put the fire out completely and leave the site natural.
Common mistakes
×Toilet near water
×Fire upwind of the tents
×Keeping food in the tent
×Pitching in hollows
Limits and risks
–No legal advice on wild camping
–No planning for large camps
Sources
[1]
Leave No Trace Center for Outdoor Ethics: The Seven Principles of Leave No Trace (Principle 5: Minimize Campfire Impacts)
Wet clothing chills and chafes. In camp you dry things systematically: wring out, use wind and sun, string a line under the tarp, dry small items with body heat and keep boots at a distance from the fire. A dry set for sleeping always stays untouched.
Never run a stove, barbecue or heater inside a tent to dry things – carbon monoxide and fire risk.
Synthetics melt, leather cracks and soles can come unglued if hung too close to a fire. Never leave clothing unattended by the fire.
If you are shivering in wet clothes, change into dry clothes first – drying can wait. Take signs of hypothermia seriously.
Materials
Paracord – As a drying line
Dry bag – For the dry sleeping set
Dry spare clothing
Steps
1
Protect the sleeping set
One complete dry set (underwear, socks, hat) stays in its bag and is worn only in the sleeping bag.
2
Wring out
Wring clothing hard or roll it in a towel and kneel on it. Turn socks inside out.
3
String a line
String a line in the wind but under the tarp. Hang clothing loosely, not folded.
4
Use sun and wind
In breaks and dry weather spread gear on the outside of the pack or over bushes.
5
Body heat
Dry slightly damp socks or gloves overnight inside your jacket or in the sleeping bag in a thin bag – not soaking items that would wet the bag.
6
Boots
Remove insoles, open the laces wide, stuff with dry paper or cloth and change it regularly. Keep a distance from the fire, never in the embers.
Common mistakes
×Wearing the dry sleeping set during the day
×Putting boots right next to the fire
×Leaving wet clothes crumpled in the pack
×Stringing a line across a path
Limits and risks
–No treatment of hypothermia – see first-aid entries
–In humid climates some things do not dry for days
Sources
[1]
Mors L. Kochanski – Lone Pine Publishing: Bushcraft: Outdoor Skills and Wilderness Survival
[2]
Centers for Disease Control and Prevention: Carbon Monoxide Poisoning – Prevention guidance
In bushcraft only deadwood is used for fires and camp structures, and only where that is permitted. Fallen, thin wood that can be broken by hand is usually the most suitable. Dead trees stay standing, hung-up branches are not pulled down, and part of the deadwood always remains as habitat.
Dead trees and hung-up branches can fall without warning, especially in wind. Do not pull or shake them, and do not collect or camp beneath them.
Whether collecting wood, camping and fires are allowed is governed very differently by landowners and local rules – check local rules and ask when in doubt.
Trunks under tension (e.g. after a storm) can spring when sawn. Avoid such windthrow areas.
Materials
Folding saw(optional)
Sturdy work gloves(optional)
Steps
1
Check the rules
Before the trip find out: may wood be collected and fires lit here? Is there a wildfire warning?
2
Look up
Before collecting, check the trees above for dead branches and leaning trunks.
3
Fallen wood only
Take wood lying on the ground that snaps dry. Rotten, wet wood burns poorly and is better left as habitat.
4
Thin enough
Mainly wood that can be broken by hand. Cut thicker pieces to length with the saw only; do not split unless necessary.
5
Collect widely
Do not clear one spot but collect spread over a larger area, away from the camp.
6
Only as much as needed
Estimate the need, plan a small fire and scatter leftover wood when breaking camp.
Common mistakes
×Breaking branches off living trees
×Shaking dead trees
×Clearing all deadwood around the camp
×Collecting wood without knowing the rules
Limits and risks
–No legal advice – rules differ by country and landowner
–No tree species or plant identification
Sources
[1]
Leave No Trace Center for Outdoor Ethics: The Seven Principles of Leave No Trace (Principle 5: Minimize Campfire Impacts)
https://lnt.org
[2]
USDA Forest Service / Ad Council / National Association of State Foresters: Campfire Safety (Smokey Bear wildfire prevention campaign)
In camp you do not wash up in the stream. Fetch water in a container, wash dishes and yourself well away from the bank, use little or no soap, strain food scraps from the washing water and scatter it widely. Washing hands before cooking and after the toilet is the most important rule against stomach bugs.
Wash hands before preparing food and after every toilet visit; stomach bugs spread quickly in groups. Where water is scarce, also use hand sanitiser.
Even biodegradable soap harms waters. No washing or emptying washing water at or in a lake or stream – Leave No Trace gives a distance of about 60 m.
Rinse dishes with water that is safe to drink or has been treated, and let them dry well.
Materials
Metal pot (stainless steel, aluminium, titanium) – As a washing bowl
Soap / detergent – Sparingly, biodegradable if possible
Collapsible water container or bag(optional)
Rubbish bag (resealable) – For strained food scraps
Steps
1
Scrape out leftovers
Eat pots and plates clean or scrape them out with a spoon. Leftovers go into the rubbish bag, not into nature.
2
Fetch water
Fetch water in a container from the bank and carry it to the washing area.
3
Wash
Wash with warm water and little or no soap, cleanest items first. Rinse with clean water.
4
Strain and scatter
Pour the washing water through a fine strainer or cloth, put the scraps in the rubbish and scatter the water widely, well away from water and camp.
5
Dry
Let dishes air-dry rather than wrapping them in a damp cloth.
6
Personal washing
Wash yourself with water from the container away from the bank too. Where swimming is allowed, wash off sunscreen and insect repellent first.
Common mistakes
×Washing the pot directly in the stream
×Tipping leftovers into the bushes
×Using lots of soap because it is "biodegradable"
×Forgetting to wash hands before cooking
Limits and risks
–No water treatment – see the water entries
–Local rules (e.g. carrying out waste water) take precedence
Sources
[1]
Leave No Trace Center for Outdoor Ethics: The Seven Principles of Leave No Trace (Principle 5: Minimize Campfire Impacts)
https://lnt.org
[2]
World Health Organization (WHO) (2006): Five Keys to Safer Food Manual