Knots and rope work

Materials

• Rope
• Paracord(optional)

Steps

1. 1

   Name the parts of the rope

   The working end is the part you tie with. The standing part is the rest of the rope, usually the part that takes the load. In the atlas diagrams the working end is orange and the standing part sandstone.

2. 2

   Tell a bight from a loop

   A bight is a U-shaped fold of rope whose legs do not cross. A loop is formed when the legs do cross. With the working end on top it is an overhand loop; with the working end underneath, an underhand loop.

3. 3

   Turn and round turn

   A turn takes the rope once around an object. A round turn goes fully around so that the rope wraps it one and a half times; it spreads load and friction better than a single turn.

4. 4

   Tie, dress, set

   After tying, a knot is dressed (turns lie parallel, nothing twisted) and then set by pulling evenly on all ends. An undressed knot may deform, hold less well or come loose.

Common mistakes

• ×Confusing standing part and working end, so the knot ends up mirrored or wrong
• ×Treating bight and loop as the same – many instructions depend on exactly this difference

Limits and risks

• –Names vary by region; the described rope path is what counts.

Sources

1. [1]

   Clifford W. Ashley – Doubleday, Doran & Co. (1944): The Ashley Book of Knots

2. [2]

   Geoffrey Budworth (1997): The Complete Book of Knots

Rev. 1 · Online version: https://survivebetter.com/en/explore/knots/knot-terminology

Materials

• Rope
• Paracord
• Thin twine

Steps

1. 1

   Inspect the rope before use

   Run the rope through your hands and look for cuts, hard or glazed spots, lumps, exposed core and heavy discolouration. Do not use damaged sections for load-bearing tasks.

2. 2

   Secure the ends

   Unsecured ends unravel. Wrap tape or thin twine (a whipping) around the end. Synthetic rope can additionally be melted carefully – keep skin and flammable material away; molten plastic causes severe burns.

3. 3

   Store dry and dark

   Store rope dry, clean, loosely coiled and protected from sunlight, heat and chemicals (battery acid, solvents, fuel).

Common mistakes

• ×Assuming every knot holds equally well in every rope
• ×Running rope over sharp edges without protection
• ×Pulling synthetic rope quickly over another rope or a branch – friction heat can melt it

Limits and risks

• –This overview does not replace manufacturer data or standards testing.
• –Strength figures are deliberately omitted because they depend heavily on product and condition.

Sources

1. [1]

   Clifford W. Ashley – Doubleday, Doran & Co. (1944): The Ashley Book of Knots

2. [2]

   Geoffrey Budworth (1997): The Complete Book of Knots

Rev. 1 · Online version: https://survivebetter.com/en/explore/knots/knot-rope-materials

Materials

• Rope
• Thin twine

Steps

1. 1

   Lay the twine bight

   Lay a long bight of twine along the rope end, with the bight pointing towards the end.

2. 2

   Wrap tightly

   Wrap the twine tightly around the rope and the bight, working towards the end, turn beside turn, until the band is roughly as wide as the rope is thick or a little more. Leave the tip of the bight free.

3. 3

   End through the bight

   Pass the wrapping end through the free bight.

4. 4

   Draw the bight under

   Pull the other end of the twine until the bight is drawn about halfway under the wraps. Trim both twine ends close.

Common mistakes

• ×Wrapping loosely – then the whipping slides off
• ×Pulling the bight right through so it all comes apart
• ×Twine too thick

Limits and risks

• –The common whipping can slip off with heavy abrasion; renew it then.

Sources

1. [1]

   Clifford W. Ashley – Doubleday, Doran & Co. (1944): The Ashley Book of Knots

2. [2]

   Geoffrey Budworth (1997): The Complete Book of Knots

Rev. 1 · Online version: https://survivebetter.com/en/explore/knots/knot-whipping

Materials

• Rope

Steps

1. 1

   Start

   Take both ends together (rope doubled) or one end, leaving about two arm lengths free.

2. 2

   Lay bights alternately

   Lay the rope in arm-length bights alternately left and right over your hand or neck until little rope remains.

3. 3

   Wrap the middle

   Take the bundle off and wrap the free ends tightly around the middle several times.

4. 4

   Secure

   Push a bight of the ends through the top of the bundle and pass the ends through that bight; pull snug. The long ends can be used to tie the bundle to your body or pack.

Common mistakes

• ×Coiling in circles instead of bights – this creates twist and tangles
• ×Ends too short to tie off
• ×Storing wet rope coiled up

Limits and risks

• –Good storage extends service life but does not replace inspection before use.

Sources

1. [1]

   The Mountaineers Books (2017): Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills, 9th edition

2. [2]

   Geoffrey Budworth (1997): The Complete Book of Knots

Rev. 1 · Online version: https://survivebetter.com/en/explore/knots/knot-butterfly-coil

Materials

• Rope
• Paracord(optional)

Steps

1. 1

   Starting loop

   Tie a slipped loop near one end.

2. 2

   Draw a bight through

   Reach through the loop, grab the rope beyond it and pull a new bight through.

3. 3

   Repeat

   Keep repeating with the newest loop until the rope is short enough. Loops of equal size make a neat chain.

4. 4

   Lock

   Pass the end through the last loop and pull lightly. To undo, take the end out and pull the rope.

Common mistakes

• ×Not locking the last loop – the chain unravels by itself
• ×Very uneven loop sizes
• ×Pulling bights through from the wrong side so knots form

Limits and risks

• –A storage and shortening form, not a load-bearing knot.

Sources

1. [1]

   Clifford W. Ashley – Doubleday, Doran & Co. (1944): The Ashley Book of Knots

2. [2]

   Geoffrey Budworth (1997): The Complete Book of Knots

Rev. 1 · Online version: https://survivebetter.com/en/explore/knots/knot-chain-sinnet

Materials

• Rope
• Paracord(optional)
• Thin twine(optional)

Steps

1. 1

   Lay out the standing part

   Lay the standing part (sandstone) horizontally, coming from the left.

2. 2

   Form a loop

   Continue the working end (orange) to the right, curve it up and back over the top to the left. Then bring it down and pass it UNDER the standing part – a loop is formed.

3. 3

   Bring the end into the loop

   Take the end round underneath and back up, passing OVER the standing part into the loop.

4. 4

   Lead the end out

   Lead the end out of the loop by passing it UNDER the right-hand side of the loop, and run it out to the right.

5. 5

   Dress and tighten

   Dress the knot so nothing is twisted and set it by pulling evenly on standing part and end. Leave a tail at least several rope diameters long.

Common mistakes

• ×Trimming the tail too short so it pulls out under load
• ×Using it where a large eyelet lets it pull through
• ×Forcing it apart after heavy loading instead of loosening it first

Limits and risks

• –Does not replace a proper whipping for permanent use.

Sources

1. [1]

   Clifford W. Ashley – Doubleday, Doran & Co. (1944): The Ashley Book of Knots

2. [2]

   Geoffrey Budworth (1997): The Complete Book of Knots

Rev. 1 · Online version: https://survivebetter.com/en/explore/knots/knot-overhand

Materials

• Rope
• Paracord(optional)

Steps

1. 1

   Lay out the standing part

   Lay out the standing part (sandstone), coming from the left.

2. 2

   Form a loop

   Continue the working end (orange) to the right, then arc it up and back to the left. Bring it down so it crosses OVER the standing part – a loop is formed.

3. 3

   Wrap around the standing part

   Take the end down, round to the left and up, passing UNDER (behind) the standing part. The end now wraps around the standing part.

4. 4

   Pass through the loop

   Lead the end to the right, crossing OVER the left side of the loop into the loop, then down, passing UNDER the standing part – that is, through the loop.

5. 5

   Lead the end out

   Lead the end out to the right.

6. 6

   Dress and tighten

   Dress the knot until the eight is clearly visible and no turn is twisted, then pull standing part and end evenly to set it. Leave a sufficiently long tail.

Common mistakes

• ×Ending up with an overhand knot because the turn around the standing part is missing
• ×Not setting the knot – a loose figure-eight can shake out of slick cord
• ×Tail too short

Limits and risks

• –Intended as a stopper; the loop variants for life-safety belong in professional training.

Sources

1. [1]

   Clifford W. Ashley – Doubleday, Doran & Co. (1944): The Ashley Book of Knots

2. [2]

   Geoffrey Budworth (1997): The Complete Book of Knots

Rev. 1 · Online version: https://survivebetter.com/en/explore/knots/knot-figure-eight

Materials

• Rope
• Paracord(optional)
• Thin twine(optional)

Steps

1. 1

   Make a loop

   Form a loop near the end, as for an overhand knot.

2. 2

   Tuck twice

   Pass the end through the loop, then take it around once more and through the same loop again.

3. 3

   Dress and set

   Pull slowly on both sides. The two wraps should roll neatly around each other; only then pull tight.

Common mistakes

• ×Setting it too fast so the wraps end up twisted and messy
• ×Cutting the tail too short

Limits and risks

• –Only stops slipping if the opening is clearly smaller than the knot.

Sources

1. [1]

   Clifford W. Ashley – Doubleday, Doran & Co. (1944): The Ashley Book of Knots

2. [2]

   Geoffrey Budworth (1997): The Complete Book of Knots

Rev. 1 · Online version: https://survivebetter.com/en/explore/knots/knot-double-overhand

Materials

• Rope
• Paracord(optional)

Steps

1. 1

   Make a loop

   Form a loop near the end so the end crosses over the standing part.

2. 2

   Two turns around the standing part

   Take the end behind the standing part and right around it a second time, so two turns lie side by side.

3. 3

   Tuck through the first loop

   Pass the end from the front through the loop you made first.

4. 4

   Dress and set

   Dress the turns, then pull on end and standing part to set.

Common mistakes

• ×Tucking through the wrong loop so the knot falls apart when set
• ×Setting it with twisted turns

Limits and risks

• –Only a stopper – it does not carry load as a bend or loop.

Sources

1. [1]

   Clifford W. Ashley – Doubleday, Doran & Co. (1944): The Ashley Book of Knots

2. [2]

   Geoffrey Budworth (1997): The Complete Book of Knots

Rev. 1 · Online version: https://survivebetter.com/en/explore/knots/knot-stevedore

Materials

• Rope
• Thin twine(optional)

Steps

1. 1

   Make a loop

   Form a loop as for an overhand knot.

2. 2

   Tuck a bight

   Fold the end into a small bight and push only the bight through the loop; the actual end stays outside.

3. 3

   Set

   Pull on the bight and the standing part to set it.

4. 4

   Release

   To open, pull the tail.

Common mistakes

• ×Tucking the end instead of a bight – that gives a plain overhand
• ×Pulling the wrong strand so a noose tightens instead of the knot releasing

Limits and risks

• –Only for light, non-critical uses.

Sources

1. [1]

   Clifford W. Ashley – Doubleday, Doran & Co. (1944): The Ashley Book of Knots

2. [2]

   Geoffrey Budworth (1997): The Complete Book of Knots

Rev. 1 · Online version: https://survivebetter.com/en/explore/knots/knot-slipped-overhand

Materials

• Rope
• Paracord(optional)

Steps

1. 1

   Make a loop

   Form a loop near the end by taking the end behind the standing part.

2. 2

   Draw a bight of the standing part through

   Pull a small bight of the standing part through the loop. This makes a slip loop that closes when the standing part is pulled.

3. 3

   End through the bight

   Pass the short end through this bight.

4. 4

   Set and check

   Pull on the standing part until the bight closes firmly around the end. The finished knot shows three round lobes with the end emerging in the middle.

Common mistakes

• ×Drawing the bight from the end instead of the standing part – then nothing closes around the end
• ×Leaving the tail too short
• ×Not dressing before setting

Limits and risks

• –For very large openings only a toggle or washer helps.

Sources

1. [1]

   Clifford W. Ashley – Doubleday, Doran & Co. (1944): The Ashley Book of Knots

2. [2]

   Geoffrey Budworth (1997): The Complete Book of Knots

Rev. 1 · Online version: https://survivebetter.com/en/explore/knots/knot-ashley-stopper

Materials

• Rope
• Paracord(optional)
• Sturdy sticks / poles(optional)

Steps

1. 1

   Make the first turn

   Pass the working end once around the post or branch.

2. 2

   Cross over the standing part

   Lead the end diagonally over the standing part to form a crossing, and make a second turn in the same direction beside the first.

3. 3

   Tuck under the second turn

   Tuck the end under the second turn so it emerges between the two turns, running the opposite way to the standing part. Both ends now exit beneath the X.

4. 4

   Set

   Pull end and standing part at the same time until both turns grip the object firmly.

5. 5

   Back up if needed

   For intermittent loads, add one or two half hitches with the end around the standing part.

Common mistakes

• ×Making the second turn in the opposite direction – that gives a cow hitch, not a clove hitch
• ×Using it unbacked on flapping lines
• ×Leaving the tail too short

Limits and risks

• –Not a sole attachment for loads that must not fall.
• –Holding power depends heavily on the object's diameter and surface.

Sources

1. [1]

   Clifford W. Ashley – Doubleday, Doran & Co. (1944): The Ashley Book of Knots

2. [2]

   Geoffrey Budworth (1997): The Complete Book of Knots

Rev. 1 · Online version: https://survivebetter.com/en/explore/knots/knot-clove-hitch

Materials

• Rope
• Paracord(optional)

Steps

1. 1

   Pass around the object

   Pass the working end around the object – once (a turn) or, for more grip, twice (a round turn).

2. 2

   Tie the first half hitch

   Take the end over the standing part, around behind it and back through the loop just formed.

3. 3

   Second half hitch in the same direction

   Tie a second half hitch in the same direction beside the first, further from the object. Tied correctly, the two form a clove hitch around the standing part.

4. 4

   Slide up and set

   Slide the hitches towards the object and pull the end tight. Leave a sufficiently long tail.

Common mistakes

• ×Tying the second hitch in the opposite direction (gives a cow hitch on the standing part, which slips more readily)
• ×Tying only one half hitch
• ×Using it without a round turn on smooth objects under high load

Limits and risks

• –Not for people or lifting.
• –Tension must be set before tying.

Sources

1. [1]

   Clifford W. Ashley – Doubleday, Doran & Co. (1944): The Ashley Book of Knots

2. [2]

   Geoffrey Budworth (1997): The Complete Book of Knots

Rev. 1 · Online version: https://survivebetter.com/en/explore/knots/knot-two-half-hitches

Materials

• Paracord
• Rope(optional)
• Tent stakes(optional)

Steps

1. 1

   Pass around the anchor

   Pass the working end around the stake, post or branch and back up on the other side, alongside the standing part. This forms a loop to the anchor.

2. 2

   Two turns inside the loop

   With the end, make two turns around the standing part: take it over the front of the standing part and back round behind it, twice. Each turn lies a little closer to the anchor, that is, inside the loop.

3. 3

   One turn outside

   Bring the end back up on the outside of the two turns. On the way it passes over the strand that leads into the first turn. Above the two turns, on the side away from the anchor, make one more turn in the same direction: over the front of the standing part and back round behind it. Finally tuck the end under its own strand that you have just brought up (a half hitch).

4. 4

   Dress and set

   Dress the turns so they lie snug and parallel, and pull them tight.

5. 5

   Adjust the tension

   Slide the knot along the standing part away from the anchor to tighten the line, or towards it to slacken. Then load it and check that it holds.

   If the knot slips, add an extra turn inside the loop or use different cord.

Common mistakes

• ×Placing the outer turn on the wrong side – the knot then does not grip
• ×Leaving turns loose or crossed
• ×Relying on it in slick cord without testing

Limits and risks

• –Intended for light to moderate guyline loads only.
• –Grip depends heavily on cord material and diameter.

Sources

1. [1]

   Clifford W. Ashley – Doubleday, Doran & Co. (1944): The Ashley Book of Knots

2. [2]

   Geoffrey Budworth (1997): The Complete Book of Knots

Rev. 1 · Online version: https://survivebetter.com/en/explore/knots/knot-taut-line-hitch

Materials

• Rope
• Sturdy sticks / poles(optional)
• Dry firewood(optional)

Steps

1. 1

   Around the object

   Pass the end around the log or bundle.

2. 2

   Around the standing part

   Take the end around the standing part and back towards the object.

3. 3

   Twist the end around its own part

   Twist the end several times around the part of the rope that goes around the object. At least three twists; more with slick rope.

4. 4

   Take up the strain

   Pull on the standing part until the loop grips the object tightly.

Common mistakes

• ×Too few twists
• ×Twisting against the lay of the rope so they open up
• ×Using it as a permanent attachment without tension

Limits and risks

• –Not for loads that are intermittently slack and then loaded again.

Sources

1. [1]

   Clifford W. Ashley – Doubleday, Doran & Co. (1944): The Ashley Book of Knots

2. [2]

   Boy Scouts of America: Scouts BSA Handbook

Rev. 1 · Online version: https://survivebetter.com/en/explore/knots/knot-timber-hitch

Materials

• Rope
• Paracord(optional)
• Webbing (tubular webbing)(optional)

Steps

1. 1

   Bight around the object

   Pass a bight around behind the object and bring it to the front.

2. 2

   Strands through the bight

   Pull both strands (or the whole sling) through the bight.

3. 3

   Snug it

   Pull evenly on both strands until the bight sits snugly.

Common mistakes

• ×Confusing it with the clove hitch – in the cow hitch the two turns run in opposite directions
• ×Loading only one strand

Limits and risks

• –Specific rules apply to slings in climbing, which are not taught here.

Sources

1. [1]

   Clifford W. Ashley – Doubleday, Doran & Co. (1944): The Ashley Book of Knots

2. [2]

   Geoffrey Budworth (1997): The Complete Book of Knots

3. [3]

   The Mountaineers Books (2017): Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills, 9th edition

Rev. 1 · Online version: https://survivebetter.com/en/explore/knots/knot-cow-hitch

Materials

• Thin twine
• Paracord(optional)

Steps

1. 1

   First turn

   Lay the rope across the front of the object, take the end round behind it and bring it back to the front below the standing part.

2. 2

   Cross diagonally and second turn

   Take the end diagonally upwards across the front of the standing part and around the object a second time – above the first turn, as for a clove hitch. The diagonal part in front is the riding turn.

3. 3

   Tuck under the crossing

   Bring the end diagonally down across the front and tuck it under the riding turn – and straight after that under the standing part too, so it passes beneath the crossing. It comes out beside the standing part, on the other side. An overhand knot made of the end and the standing part now lies under the riding turn.

4. 4

   Pull hard

   Pull both ends hard. Trim the ends short if the knot is to stay permanently.

Common mistakes

• ×Tucking the end only under the riding turn and not under the standing part as well – that is a clove hitch
• ×Using it on flat objects and relying on its grip

Limits and risks

• –Not a replacement for hose clamps on pressurised lines.

Sources

1. [1]

   Clifford W. Ashley – Doubleday, Doran & Co. (1944): The Ashley Book of Knots

2. [2]

   Geoffrey Budworth (1997): The Complete Book of Knots

Rev. 1 · Online version: https://survivebetter.com/en/explore/knots/knot-constrictor

Materials

• Rope
• Paracord(optional)
• Accessory carabiner (not a safety device)(optional) – Instead of the rope loop as a lower-friction turning point (accessory carabiner)

Steps

1. 1

   Attach one end

   Attach one end of the line at the first point, e.g. with a bowline or round turn and two half hitches.

2. 2

   Loop in the standing part

   Tie a fixed loop in the line about an arm's length short of the second anchor – reliably with an alpine butterfly or figure-eight loop. A simple slipped loop is quicker but can capsize or jam.

3. 3

   Around the anchor and back through the loop

   Take the end around the second anchor (tree, hook, eyelet) and back through the loop.

4. 4

   Tension

   Pull the end towards the anchor until the line is taut. Pinch the rope at the loop with one hand to hold the tension.

5. 5

   Tie off

   Tie off with two half hitches around both strands below the loop. A bight on the last hitch (slipped) allows quick release later.

Common mistakes

• ×Forming the loop with a knot that capsizes or falls apart under load
• ×Placing the loop too close to the anchor so there is no travel left
• ×Creating very high tension with thin cord and overloading the anchor or cord

Limits and risks

• –Not a substitute for certified straps on the road.
• –Friction considerably reduces the pulley effect.

Sources

1. [1]

   Geoffrey Budworth (1997): The Complete Book of Knots

2. [2]

   Clifford W. Ashley – Doubleday, Doran & Co. (1944): The Ashley Book of Knots

Rev. 1 · Online version: https://survivebetter.com/en/explore/knots/knot-truckers-hitch

Materials

• Accessory cord
• Rope

Steps

1. 1

   Closed loop

   Use a closed loop of accessory cord that is clearly thinner than the main rope.

2. 2

   Lay around the rope

   Place the loop behind the main rope and pass one end of the loop through the other – like a loose cow hitch.

3. 3

   More wraps

   Take the same end of the loop around the main rope and through the loop once or twice more, each time inside the previous wraps. Three passes in total are common.

4. 4

   Dress and test

   Lay the wraps parallel without crossing, with the emerging loop centred. Load it and check that it grips; slide it when unloaded.

Common mistakes

• ×Cord too thick relative to the rope
• ×Crossed wraps
• ×Too few wraps for slick or wet rope
• ×Grabbing the wraps rather than the knot body when sliding, causing it to lock unexpectedly

Limits and risks

• –This page does not teach self-belay or rescue technique.
• –No figures on holding forces.

Sources

1. [1]

   The Mountaineers Books (2017): Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills, 9th edition

2. [2]

   Geoffrey Budworth (1997): The Complete Book of Knots

Rev. 1 · Online version: https://survivebetter.com/en/explore/knots/knot-prusik

Materials

• Accessory cord
• Webbing (tubular webbing)(optional)
• Rope

Steps

1. 1

   Place the loop

   Hold the loop alongside the rope with one end at the top.

2. 2

   Wrap upwards in a spiral

   Wrap the loop several times around the rope in a spiral, working upwards towards the upper end, with the wraps close together.

3. 3

   Through the upper end

   Pass the lower end of the loop through the upper end.

4. 4

   Load downwards and test

   Pull the emerging end downwards (towards the load). Check: the knot grips under load and slides when unloaded.

Common mistakes

• ×Loading it the wrong way
• ×Loose or crossed wraps
• ×Too few wraps

Limits and risks

• –This page does not teach self-belay or rescue technique.

Sources

1. [1]

   The Mountaineers Books (2017): Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills, 9th edition

Rev. 1 · Online version: https://survivebetter.com/en/explore/knots/knot-klemheist

Materials

• Rope
• Paracord(optional)

Steps

1. 1

   First turn

   Take the end around the pole or rope on the side from which it will be pulled.

2. 2

   Second turn over the first

   Take the end around a second time so that it crosses the standing part and lies beside the first turn, further towards the pull.

3. 3

   Hitch on the other side

   Bring the end across the standing part to the side away from the pull and make a half hitch there, tucking the end under itself.

4. 4

   Set and test

   Set it and load it in the planned direction. If it slips, add another turn.

Common mistakes

• ×Turns on the wrong side – then it slips
• ×Confusing it with the clove hitch
• ×Not testing it in the direction of pull

Limits and risks

• –Test its grip in slick material beforehand.

Sources

1. [1]

   Clifford W. Ashley – Doubleday, Doran & Co. (1944): The Ashley Book of Knots

2. [2]

   Geoffrey Budworth (1997): The Complete Book of Knots

Rev. 1 · Online version: https://survivebetter.com/en/explore/knots/knot-rolling-hitch

Materials

• Thin twine
• Sturdy sticks / poles
• Paracord(optional)

Steps

1. 1

   Form a loop

   Form a loop in the cord.

2. 2

   Loop over the standing part

   Lay the loop flat on the part of the cord leading to the load, so that this part is visible through the loop.

3. 3

   Insert the toggle

   Push the toggle over one side of the loop, under the standing part lying within it and out over the other side.

4. 4

   Pull

   Pull on the toggle; the cord locks around it. To release, withdraw the toggle.

Common mistakes

• ×Passing the toggle only through the loop, not under the standing part – it then pulls out
• ×Using a toggle that is too thin or rotten

Limits and risks

• –Only as strong as the toggle.

Sources

1. [1]

   Clifford W. Ashley – Doubleday, Doran & Co. (1944): The Ashley Book of Knots

2. [2]

   Geoffrey Budworth (1997): The Complete Book of Knots

Rev. 1 · Online version: https://survivebetter.com/en/explore/knots/knot-marlinspike-hitch

Materials

• Sturdy sticks / poles
• Rope
• Thin twine(optional)
• Paracord(optional)

Steps

1. 1

   Start

   Tie a clove hitch on the upright just below the crossbar. Twist the short end around the standing part or wrap it in later.

2. 2

   Wrapping turns

   Take the rope over the crossbar, behind the upright, over the crossbar on the other side and back behind the upright. Make three or four such rounds, each tight and beside the last – outside on the crossbar, inside on the upright.

3. 3

   Frapping turns

   Make two or three tight turns between the poles, around the wraps.

4. 4

   Finish

   Finish with a clove hitch on the crossbar and secure the end.

Common mistakes

• ×Wrapping turns too loose
• ×Forgetting the frapping turns
• ×Crossing the turns instead of laying them side by side
• ×Thick, stiff cord that cannot be pulled tight

Limits and risks

• –Load capacity depends on wood, cord and workmanship and cannot be generalised.

Sources

1. [1]

   Boy Scouts of America: Scouts BSA Handbook

2. [2]

   Clifford W. Ashley – Doubleday, Doran & Co. (1944): The Ashley Book of Knots

Rev. 1 · Online version: https://survivebetter.com/en/explore/knots/knot-square-lashing

Materials

• Sturdy sticks / poles
• Rope
• Thin twine(optional)

Steps

1. 1

   Timber hitch around both poles

   Tie a timber hitch diagonally around both poles at the crossing and use it to pull them together.

2. 2

   Wraps on the first diagonal

   Make three or four tight wraps in the same direction as the timber hitch.

3. 3

   Wraps on the second diagonal

   Make three or four tight wraps across them, along the other diagonal.

4. 4

   Frap and finish

   Two or three frapping turns between the poles, then finish with a clove hitch on one pole.

Common mistakes

• ×Starting without the timber hitch so the poles do not come together
• ×Wrapping only one diagonal
• ×Forgetting the frapping turns

Limits and risks

• –Load capacity cannot be generalised; test carefully.

Sources

1. [1]

   Boy Scouts of America: Scouts BSA Handbook

Rev. 1 · Online version: https://survivebetter.com/en/explore/knots/knot-diagonal-lashing

Materials

• Sturdy sticks / poles
• Rope
• Thin twine(optional)

Steps

1. 1

   Start

   Lay both poles side by side and tie a clove hitch around one of them.

2. 2

   Wraps

   Wrap several times around both poles – not too tight if they are to be spread later.

3. 3

   Frapping turns

   Two frapping turns between the poles around the wraps.

4. 4

   Finish and spread

   Finish with a clove hitch on the other pole. Then spread the legs into an A.

Common mistakes

• ×Wrapped too tight so the poles cannot be spread
• ×Wrapped too loose so the lashing does not grip when spread
• ×Legs not secured against sliding

Limits and risks

• –An A-frame needs side guying.

Sources

1. [1]

   Boy Scouts of America: Scouts BSA Handbook

Rev. 1 · Online version: https://survivebetter.com/en/explore/knots/knot-shear-lashing

Materials

• Sturdy sticks / poles
• Rope
• Thin twine(optional)

Steps

1. 1

   Lay out the poles

   Lay three poles of similar length side by side with their ends level.

2. 2

   Start

   Clove hitch on an outer pole.

3. 3

   Woven wraps

   Weave the rope in figure-eight turns alternately over and under the poles for several rounds, not too tight.

4. 4

   Frapping turns

   Make two loose frapping turns between each pair of poles.

5. 5

   Finish and stand up

   Finish with a clove hitch on the other outer pole. Stand the tripod up and spread the legs until it is stable.

Common mistakes

• ×Wrapped too tight – the legs will not spread
• ×Legs not spread enough – the tripod tips
• ×Hanging the load off centre

Limits and risks

• –Stability depends on the ground and the spread.

Sources

1. [1]

   Boy Scouts of America: Scouts BSA Handbook

Rev. 1 · Online version: https://survivebetter.com/en/explore/knots/knot-tripod-lashing

Materials

• Rope
• Paracord(optional)

Steps

1. 1

   Take a round turn

   Take the end right around the object twice so two turns lie side by side. If you want to hold tension, keep hold of the end now.

2. 2

   First half hitch

   Take the end around the standing part and through the loop that forms.

3. 3

   Second half hitch

   Tie a second half hitch in the same direction as the first. Together the two form a clove hitch around the standing part.

4. 4

   Slide up and set

   Slide the hitches up to the round turn and pull them snug. Leave a reasonably long tail.

Common mistakes

• ×Tying the second hitch the opposite way – that makes a cow hitch instead of a clove hitch
• ×Only a single wrap instead of a round turn
• ×Tail too short

Limits and risks

• –Holds only as long as the hitches are tied neatly and set firmly.

Sources

1. [1]

   Clifford W. Ashley – Doubleday, Doran & Co. (1944): The Ashley Book of Knots

2. [2]

   Geoffrey Budworth (1997): The Complete Book of Knots

3. [3]

   Boy Scouts of America: Scouts BSA Handbook

Rev. 1 · Online version: https://survivebetter.com/en/explore/knots/knot-round-turn-two-half-hitches

Materials

• Rope
• Paracord(optional)

Steps

1. 1

   Take a round turn

   Pass the end through the ring or around the object twice in the same direction, so two turns lie side by side. Keep the turns loose.

2. 2

   Tuck through the round turn

   Take the end up across the front of the standing part and round behind it. Then tuck it back through both turns right next to the object, between the turns and the object. In the drawing this part runs along the side of the object, so it lies alternately over and under the turns.

3. 3

   Half hitch

   Secure the end with a half hitch around the standing part: diagonally up across the front of the standing part, round behind it and down, then across the front of the standing part once more and under its own arch at the top. The end goes round in the same direction as in the previous step.

4. 4

   Set

   Pull the round turn and the hitch tight. For long-term use the tail can additionally be seized to the standing part.

Common mistakes

• ×Tucking the end through only one turn instead of both
• ×Forgetting the half hitch
• ×Pulling the round turn too tight before tucking so the end will not fit

Limits and risks

• –Load capacity also depends on the ring or handle, not only the knot.

Sources

1. [1]

   Clifford W. Ashley – Doubleday, Doran & Co. (1944): The Ashley Book of Knots

2. [2]

   Geoffrey Budworth (1997): The Complete Book of Knots

Rev. 1 · Online version: https://survivebetter.com/en/explore/knots/knot-anchor-bend

Materials

• Rope
• Paracord(optional)

Steps

1. 1

   Around the object

   Pass the end through the ring or around the object and bring it back so it lies below the standing part.

2. 2

   First turn around the standing part

   Bring the end up across the front of the standing part, round behind it and back down a little further away from the object. Then take it across the front of its own strand.

3. 3

   Second turn towards the object

   Take the end diagonally across the front of the standing part towards the object, round behind it and back down. This second turn lies closer to the object than the first.

4. 4

   Tuck under the second turn

   Bring the end up across the front of the standing part once more and tuck it under the diagonal part of the second turn, so it points towards the object. Set it and slide the knot up to the object.

Common mistakes

• ×Making the second turn away from the object – that gives two half hitches with the end outside
• ×Not sliding the knot up to the object

Limits and risks

• –Meant for lasting attachments, not frequent untying.

Sources

1. [1]

   Clifford W. Ashley – Doubleday, Doran & Co. (1944): The Ashley Book of Knots

2. [2]

   Geoffrey Budworth (1997): The Complete Book of Knots

Rev. 1 · Online version: https://survivebetter.com/en/explore/knots/knot-buntline-hitch

Materials

• Rope
• Tent stakes(optional)

Steps

1. 1

   Form a bight

   Form a bight at the point you want.

2. 2

   Around the post

   Take the bight around the post and once around beneath the two strands.

3. 3

   Drop over the top

   Drop the bight over the top of the post.

4. 4

   Set

   Pull on both strands and slide the knot down.

Common mistakes

• ×Leaving the knot too close to the top of the post
• ×Loading it upwards

Limits and risks

• –Reliable only with sideways or downward pull.

Sources

1. [1]

   Geoffrey Budworth (1997): The Complete Book of Knots

Rev. 1 · Online version: https://survivebetter.com/en/explore/knots/knot-pile-hitch

Materials

• Rope

Steps

1. 1

   Around the ring or rail

   Pass the end around the rail or through the ring.

2. 2

   Form a loop

   Lay the end across the standing part to form a loop.

3. 3

   Around the standing part

   Take the end around behind the standing part.

4. 4

   Tuck a bight

   Push a bight of the end through the loop, pull snug and slide the knot up to the ring or rail. To release, pull the tail.

Common mistakes

• ×Tucking the end instead of a bight – then the knot is no longer quick-release
• ×Leaving the tail so long that it snags or gets pulled by accident

Limits and risks

• –Only for light to moderate, non-critical loads.

Sources

1. [1]

   Clifford W. Ashley – Doubleday, Doran & Co. (1944): The Ashley Book of Knots

2. [2]

   Geoffrey Budworth (1997): The Complete Book of Knots

Rev. 1 · Online version: https://survivebetter.com/en/explore/knots/knot-halter-hitch

Materials

• Rope
• Thin twine(optional)
• Paracord(optional)

Steps

1. 1

   Start

   Tie the rope at one end of the bundle, e.g. with a clove hitch or constrictor knot.

2. 2

   Around the bundle

   A hand's width further along, take the rope once around the bundle.

3. 3

   Over and under the standing part

   Take the end first over the tensioned lengthwise strand and then under it, so the round locks around the lengthwise strand. Pull snug.

4. 4

   Repeat and finish

   Repeat at even intervals to the end and finish with two half hitches or a clove hitch.

Common mistakes

• ×Tucking only under the lengthwise strand – that gives half hitches that can slide
• ×Uneven spacing
• ×Not keeping the rope tensioned between hitches

Limits and risks

• –Holds a bundle together but is not vehicle load securing.

Sources

1. [1]

   Clifford W. Ashley – Doubleday, Doran & Co. (1944): The Ashley Book of Knots

2. [2]

   Geoffrey Budworth (1997): The Complete Book of Knots

Rev. 1 · Online version: https://survivebetter.com/en/explore/knots/knot-marling-hitch

Materials

• Rope
• Accessory carabiner (not a safety device)

Steps

1. 1

   Form two loops

   Form two identically twisted loops side by side in the rope: in both, the part leading on towards the end lies on top.

2. 2

   Fold like closing a book

   Fold the two loops back to back, like closing a book. (Sliding one behind the other instead gives a clove hitch.)

3. 3

   Clip the carabiner

   Clip both loops together into the carabiner and lock it. In the drawing the bar stands for the carabiner: the rope goes round it across the front and back behind, then over its own standing part and round it again the other way; both strands leave on the same side. Whether the shape, carabiner and brake side are correct must be checked by an instructor.

Common mistakes

• ×Tying a clove hitch instead of a Munter
• ×Carabiner not locked
• ×Letting go of the brake hand
• ×Letting the rope run over the gate

Limits and risks

• –This page does not teach belaying, abseiling or lowering.
• –No substitute for a course with qualified instructors.

Sources

1. [1]

   The Mountaineers Books (2017): Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills, 9th edition

Rev. 1 · Online version: https://survivebetter.com/en/explore/knots/knot-munter-hitch

Materials

• Rope
• Sturdy sticks / poles(optional)

Steps

1. 1

   Fold into an S

   Fold the surplus rope into two bights so three parallel parts lie side by side.

2. 2

   Drop on the first hitch

   Make a half hitch (a loop) in the standing part next to one bight and drop it over that bight so it goes round both legs of the bight. On the side towards the middle the loop lies over the legs, on the side towards the tip of the bight it lies under them. Where the loop crosses itself, the part leading on into the fold lies on top.

3. 3

   Second hitch at the other end

   At the other end, do exactly the same with the other standing part over the other bight.

4. 4

   Tension and secure

   Pull on both ends until the hitches sit firmly on the bights. Where possible, push a stick through each bight or seize the bights.

Common mistakes

• ×Leaving it without tension – the knot falls apart
• ×Using it to bypass a damaged section under important load
• ×Bights too short

Limits and risks

• –Not a dependable knot for lasting attachment.
• –Does not replace an intact rope.

Sources

1. [1]

   Clifford W. Ashley – Doubleday, Doran & Co. (1944): The Ashley Book of Knots

2. [2]

   Geoffrey Budworth (1997): The Complete Book of Knots

Rev. 1 · Online version: https://survivebetter.com/en/explore/knots/knot-sheepshank

Materials

• Rope
• Paracord(optional)

Steps

1. 1

   Form a small loop

   Form a small overhand loop in the standing part with the part leading to the working end lying on top. Leave enough rope for the desired loop size plus a long tail.

2. 2

   Pass the end up through

   Pass the working end up through the small loop from underneath. The large loop this creates is the bowline's loop; place it around the tree or post now if needed.

3. 3

   Around behind the standing part

   Take the end around behind the standing part, above the small loop.

4. 4

   Back down through the small loop

   Pass the end back down through the small loop the way it came, so it lies parallel to its own leg of the main loop.

5. 5

   Set and check

   Hold the tail and the adjacent loop leg together and pull firmly on the standing part. Check that the tail lies inside the loop and projects several rope diameters.

   If the tail lies outside the loop you have tied a different form (often called a left-hand or cowboy bowline), regarded as less reliable – retie it.

6. 6

   Back up if needed

   With intermittent loads or slick rope, secure the tail with a stopper (e.g. a double overhand) tied around the adjacent loop leg.

Common mistakes

• ×Forming the small loop the wrong way round – the knot falls apart when set
• ×Leaving the tail too short
• ×Loading the loop from two sides
• ×Relying on it unbacked on flapping lines

Limits and risks

• –Check regularly, especially on flapping lines.
• –Do not use as a bend or for people.

Sources

1. [1]

   Clifford W. Ashley – Doubleday, Doran & Co. (1944): The Ashley Book of Knots

2. [2]

   Geoffrey Budworth (1997): The Complete Book of Knots

Rev. 1 · Online version: https://survivebetter.com/en/explore/knots/knot-bowline

Materials

• Thin twine
• Paracord(optional)
• Rope(optional)

Steps

1. 1

   Form a bight

   Double the rope end to form a bight the size of the loop you want.

2. 2

   Overhand with both strands

   Tie an overhand knot with the doubled rope: take the bight around both strands and pass it through the loop that forms.

3. 3

   Dress and set

   Lay both strands parallel, then pull on the loop and both strands to set.

Common mistakes

• ×Setting with crossed strands
• ×Leaving the tail too short

Limits and risks

• –Not for rope you want to reuse.

Sources

1. [1]

   Clifford W. Ashley – Doubleday, Doran & Co. (1944): The Ashley Book of Knots

2. [2]

   Geoffrey Budworth (1997): The Complete Book of Knots

Rev. 1 · Online version: https://survivebetter.com/en/explore/knots/knot-overhand-loop

Materials

• Rope
• Paracord(optional)

Steps

1. 1

   Form a bight

   Double the rope, making the bight a little larger than the loop you want.

2. 2

   Bight around both strands

   Use the bight to form a loop over both strands, then take it once right around behind both strands.

3. 3

   Tuck through the first loop

   Pass the bight from the front through the first loop.

4. 4

   Dress and check

   Lay the strands parallel with no crossings inside the knot. The figure-eight shape should be clearly visible. Then pull all four strands to set.

Common mistakes

• ×Strands cross inside the knot (poorly dressed)
• ×Only an overhand loop results because the extra turn is missing
• ×Tail too short

Limits and risks

• –This page does not teach use in climbing or rescue.

Sources

1. [1]

   Clifford W. Ashley – Doubleday, Doran & Co. (1944): The Ashley Book of Knots

2. [2]

   Geoffrey Budworth (1997): The Complete Book of Knots

3. [3]

   The Mountaineers Books (2017): Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills, 9th edition

Rev. 1 · Online version: https://survivebetter.com/en/explore/knots/knot-figure-eight-loop

Materials

• Rope

Steps

1. 1

   Loose eight in single rope

   Tie a loose figure-eight with enough rope left after it. That length determines the size of the finished loop.

2. 2

   Pass around the object

   Pass the end around or through the object.

3. 3

   Retrace in parallel

   Lead the end back into the knot where it left it and follow the original path strand by strand in parallel – in the reverse direction – until it exits beside the standing part.

4. 4

   Dress, set, check

   Lay all strands parallel, set by pulling on all four strands and check: figure-eight visible, strands in pairs throughout, sufficient tail. In climbing, always have a trained second person check it as well.

Common mistakes

• ×Not fully retraced – one section lacks its parallel strand
• ×Following the wrong direction while retracing, giving a different knot
• ×Tail too short
• ×Getting distracted and not finishing the knot

Limits and risks

• –This page is not a climbing guide and replaces neither a course nor a partner check.
• –No statement on strength values.

Sources

1. [1]

   The Mountaineers Books (2017): Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills, 9th edition

2. [2]

   Geoffrey Budworth (1997): The Complete Book of Knots

Rev. 1 · Online version: https://survivebetter.com/en/explore/knots/knot-figure-eight-follow-through

Materials

• Rope
• Paracord(optional)

Steps

1. 1

   Form a bight

   Take a bight in the middle of the rope, a little larger than the loop you want.

2. 2

   Twist twice

   Twist the bight twice in the same direction about its length. This makes a figure-eight shape with two openings: the top opening at the tip of the bight and a smaller one between the two crossings.

3. 3

   Fold the top opening and pass it through

   Fold the top opening down in front of the crossings, then push it from front to back through the small opening between the crossings. Pull it out upwards behind.

4. 4

   Set and test

   Pull the loop and both strands evenly. Check: the loop stands roughly across the rope, and pulling the two strands does not change its size. If it does, untie and retie.

Common mistakes

• ×Twisting only once – that does not make a butterfly
• ×Passing through the wrong opening so a slipping noose results
• ×Using it without a function test

Limits and risks

• –Not a guide to climbing or rescue technique.
• –Isolating a damaged section does not replace replacing the rope.

Sources

1. [1]

   The Mountaineers Books (2017): Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills, 9th edition

2. [2]

   Clifford W. Ashley – Doubleday, Doran & Co. (1944): The Ashley Book of Knots

3. [3]

   Geoffrey Budworth (1997): The Complete Book of Knots

Rev. 1 · Online version: https://survivebetter.com/en/explore/knots/knot-alpine-butterfly

Materials

• Rope

Steps

1. 1

   Take a bight

   Double the rope with a long bight.

2. 2

   Small loop in the doubled rope

   With the doubled rope, form a small loop as for a bowline, with the bight side on top.

3. 3

   Bight up through

   Push the bight up through the small loop from underneath and pull some through.

4. 4

   Pass the bight over the loops

   Open out the bight and slip it down over both large loops until it lies behind the knot around the standing parts.

5. 5

   Set

   Pull on both loops and the standing parts until the knot is snug.

Common mistakes

• ×Slipping the bight only partly over the loops
• ×Forming the small loop the wrong way round so the knot falls apart when set

Limits and risks

• –Not for lifting or securing people.

Sources

1. [1]

   Clifford W. Ashley – Doubleday, Doran & Co. (1944): The Ashley Book of Knots

2. [2]

   Geoffrey Budworth (1997): The Complete Book of Knots

Rev. 1 · Online version: https://survivebetter.com/en/explore/knots/knot-bowline-on-a-bight

Materials

• Rope

Steps

1. 1

   Rope over the branch

   Pass the end over the branch or around the object and bring it some way back down. The long part you will pull on later is the standing part.

2. 2

   Form a small loop

   In the part coming down from the branch, form a small loop as for a bowline: the part leading to the end lies on top.

3. 3

   Round the standing part and up through the loop

   Take the end behind the standing part and back across its front. Then pass it up through the small loop from underneath. The loop this makes goes round the standing part.

4. 4

   Round behind the part from the branch

   Take the end round behind the part coming down from the branch, above the small loop.

5. 5

   Back down through the small loop

   Pass the end back down through the small loop the same way it came, so it lies beside its own leg on the inside of the loop. Set it.

6. 6

   Check and cinch

   Check that the standing part runs freely through the loop, then cinch the noose on the object.

Common mistakes

• ×Bowline tied wrong so it capsizes
• ×Tail too short
• ×Putting the noose on a living being

Limits and risks

• –Holds only while the noose is under tension.

Sources

1. [1]

   Clifford W. Ashley – Doubleday, Doran & Co. (1944): The Ashley Book of Knots

2. [2]

   Geoffrey Budworth (1997): The Complete Book of Knots

Rev. 1 · Online version: https://survivebetter.com/en/explore/knots/knot-running-bowline

Materials

• Rope

Steps

1. 1

   Two loops on top of each other

   Form a small loop in the standing part as for a bowline: the part leading to the end lies on top of the standing part. Take the rope round once more in the same way, so a second, identically twisted loop forms that also lies over the standing part. In the drawing the second loop lies around the outside of the first.

2. 2

   End up through both loops

   Pass the end up through both loops from underneath, leaving the loop size you want.

3. 3

   Around the standing part and back

   Take the end round behind the standing part and back across its front. Then pass it back down through both loops the same way it came, so it lies beside its own leg on the inside of the loop.

4. 4

   Set and back up

   Dress the turns, pull tight and leave a long tail. Back up the tail as shown in training.

Common mistakes

• ×Loops twisted in opposite directions – then the turn falls out
• ×Tail on the wrong side of the loop (left-hand bowline)
• ×Tail too short and not backed up

Limits and risks

• –Not a tie-in knot without training.
• –This page does not teach tail back-ups for life-safety use.

Sources

1. [1]

   Clifford W. Ashley – Doubleday, Doran & Co. (1944): The Ashley Book of Knots

2. [2]

   Geoffrey Budworth (1997): The Complete Book of Knots

Rev. 1 · Online version: https://survivebetter.com/en/explore/knots/knot-double-bowline

Materials

• Thin twine
• Paracord(optional)
• Rope(optional)

Steps

1. 1

   Pass around the bundle

   Pass the cord around the bundle from underneath and bring both ends together on top. The drawing shows the bundle from the side: the left end comes up in front of the bundle, the right end behind it.

2. 2

   First half knot: right over left

   Lay the right end over the left one. Then take it round behind the left end, below that crossing, and bring it back up on the right, over its own strand. Pull lightly.

3. 3

   Second half knot: left over right

   Now exactly the other way round: lay the end that lies on the left over the right one. Take it round behind the right end, below this new crossing, and bring it back up on the left, over its own strand.

4. 4

   Check the form

   Each end leaves the knot on the same side as its own standing part; the knot lies flat and symmetrical. If the ends stick out at an angle you have a granny knot – retie it.

5. 5

   Set

   Pull evenly on all four strands until the knot sits firmly against the bundle.

Common mistakes

• ×Crossing the same way twice (granny knot) – slips or jams
• ×Using it to join two loaded ropes
• ×Joining ropes of different thickness with it

Limits and risks

• –Use only as a binding knot around an object.
• –Not a bend for loaded ropes.

Sources

1. [1]

   Clifford W. Ashley – Doubleday, Doran & Co. (1944): The Ashley Book of Knots

2. [2]

   Geoffrey Budworth (1997): The Complete Book of Knots

Rev. 1 · Online version: https://survivebetter.com/en/explore/knots/knot-reef

Materials

• Rope
• Paracord(optional)
• Thin twine(optional)

Steps

1. 1

   Bight in the thicker rope

   Form a bight in the end of the thicker (or stiffer) rope and hold it in one hand.

2. 2

   Thin end up through the bight

   Pass the end of the thinner rope up through the bight from underneath.

3. 3

   Around both legs of the bight

   Take the thin end around behind both legs of the bight.

4. 4

   Tuck under itself

   Tuck the thin end under its own standing part – not through the bight. It now lies across the bight, nipped by itself.

5. 5

   Set and check

   Pull on both standing parts. Both short ends should lie on the same side of the knot and project with enough length.

Common mistakes

• ×Using the thinner rope for the bight instead of the thicker
• ×Tucking the end through the bight instead of under its own standing part
• ×Leaving the tails too short
• ×Tails on opposite sides (regarded as less secure)

Limits and risks

• –Not for people or lifting.
• –Use the double sheet bend with slick ropes or a large difference in thickness.

Sources

1. [1]

   Clifford W. Ashley – Doubleday, Doran & Co. (1944): The Ashley Book of Knots

2. [2]

   Geoffrey Budworth (1997): The Complete Book of Knots

Rev. 1 · Online version: https://survivebetter.com/en/explore/knots/knot-sheet-bend

Materials

• Rope
• Accessory cord(optional)

Steps

1. 1

   Overlap the ends

   Lay the two ends side by side, pointing in opposite directions, with plenty of overlap.

2. 2

   First knot

   With the first end, tie a double overhand around the other rope: wrap twice around both strands, then tuck the end back through the two wraps. Set it.

3. 3

   Second knot, mirrored

   With the other end, tie the same knot in the opposite direction around the first rope. Set it.

4. 4

   Pull together and check

   Pull on both standing parts until the knots meet. Check: two X shapes on one side, four parallel strands on the other; both tails long enough.

Common mistakes

• ×Single instead of double overhands
• ×Knots not mirrored so they do not nest neatly
• ×Tails too short

Limits and risks

• –This page does not replace training for climbing or rescue equipment.
• –No figures on strength.

Sources

1. [1]

   The Mountaineers Books (2017): Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills, 9th edition

2. [2]

   Clifford W. Ashley – Doubleday, Doran & Co. (1944): The Ashley Book of Knots

Rev. 1 · Online version: https://survivebetter.com/en/explore/knots/knot-double-fishermans

Materials

• Webbing (tubular webbing)

Steps

1. 1

   Loose overhand

   Tie a loose overhand knot in one end of the webbing, keeping it flat and untwisted.

2. 2

   Retrace with the other end

   Feed the other end into the knot from the side where the first end emerges and follow the path exactly and flat until it exits beside the first band's standing part.

3. 3

   Set and check

   Pull all four strands firmly. Check: both bands lie flat and parallel throughout, no twists, both tails long enough.

Common mistakes

• ×Twisted webbing in the knot
• ×Tails too short
• ×Knot only lightly set
• ×Not inspecting the knot regularly

Limits and risks

• –Not a substitute for sewn, certified slings in mountaineering.

Sources

1. [1]

   The Mountaineers Books (2017): Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills, 9th edition

2. [2]

   Clifford W. Ashley – Doubleday, Doran & Co. (1944): The Ashley Book of Knots

Rev. 1 · Online version: https://survivebetter.com/en/explore/knots/knot-water-knot

Materials

• Rope

Steps

1. 1

   Loop in the first rope

   Form a loop in the first rope with the end lying under the standing part.

2. 2

   Weave the second rope

   Lead the end of the second rope: under the loop, over the first rope's standing part, under its end, over the loop, under itself and out over the loop again.

3. 3

   Check the pattern

   Check: every crossing alternates over and under, and the two ends lie diagonally on opposite sides of the knot.

4. 4

   Load it

   Pull slowly on both standing parts; the knot draws up into a compact form.

Common mistakes

• ×A wrong crossing (over or under twice in a row)
• ×Both ends on the same side – that gives a weaker form
• ×Tails too short

Limits and risks

• –For thin, slick cord choose a different bend.

Sources

1. [1]

   Clifford W. Ashley – Doubleday, Doran & Co. (1944): The Ashley Book of Knots

2. [2]

   Geoffrey Budworth (1997): The Complete Book of Knots

Rev. 1 · Online version: https://survivebetter.com/en/explore/knots/knot-carrick-bend

Materials

• Rope
• Paracord(optional)

Steps

1. 1

   Bight in the thicker rope

   Form a bight in the thicker rope.

2. 2

   Thin rope up through the bight

   Pass the thinner rope up through the bight from below.

3. 3

   First turn

   Take it around both legs of the bight and under itself, as for a sheet bend.

4. 4

   Second turn

   Make a second turn around the bight and tuck under the thin rope again. Both tails should lie on the same side. Set firmly.

Common mistakes

• ×Bight in the thinner rope instead of the thicker
• ×Tails on opposite sides (weaker form)
• ×Second turn not tucked under itself

Limits and risks

• –With a very large difference in diameter even this can slip – test it and choose another join if needed.

Sources

1. [1]

   Clifford W. Ashley – Doubleday, Doran & Co. (1944): The Ashley Book of Knots

2. [2]

   Geoffrey Budworth (1997): The Complete Book of Knots

3. [3]

   Boy Scouts of America: Scouts BSA Handbook

Rev. 1 · Online version: https://survivebetter.com/en/explore/knots/knot-double-sheet-bend

Materials

• Thin twine
• Paracord(optional)

Steps

1. 1

   Lay parallel

   Lay the two ends side by side, pointing in opposite directions.

2. 2

   First overhand

   With the first end, tie an overhand knot around the second rope.

3. 3

   Second overhand

   With the second end, tie a mirror-image overhand around the first rope.

4. 4

   Draw together

   Set each knot, then pull on the standing parts until they sit against each other.

Common mistakes

• ×Knots not mirror images – they then sit badly together
• ×Tails too short

Limits and risks

• –For thicker or slick ropes the double fisherman's or double sheet bend is better.

Sources

1. [1]

   Clifford W. Ashley – Doubleday, Doran & Co. (1944): The Ashley Book of Knots

2. [2]

   Geoffrey Budworth (1997): The Complete Book of Knots

Rev. 1 · Online version: https://survivebetter.com/en/explore/knots/knot-fishermans-knot

Materials

• Rope
• Paracord(optional)

Steps

1. 1

   First loop

   Form a loop in the first rope with the end lying on top of the standing part (like a 6).

2. 2

   Second loop as a mirror image

   Form a mirror-image loop in the second rope with the end lying under the standing part (like a 9).

3. 3

   Overlap the loops

   Place the second loop on top of the first so the openings line up.

4. 4

   Ends through the centre

   Pass one end down through the shared centre and the other up through it. Set slowly; the finished knot is symmetrical with the tails pointing in opposite directions.

Common mistakes

• ×Making both loops the same instead of mirror images
• ×Passing both ends through in the same direction
• ×Not comparing the knot with an illustration

Limits and risks

• –Only useful if you can reliably recognise and check the knot.

Sources

1. [1]

   Geoffrey Budworth (1997): The Complete Book of Knots

Rev. 1 · Online version: https://survivebetter.com/en/explore/knots/knot-zeppelin-bend

Materials

• Thin twine
• Paracord(optional)

Steps

1. 1

   Pass around the bundle

   Pass the cord around the bundle from underneath and bring both ends together on top. The drawing shows the bundle from the side: the left end comes up in front of the bundle, the right end behind it.

2. 2

   Double first throw: right over left

   Lay the right end over the left one and take it round behind the left end, below that crossing. Then once more the same way, a little below the first wrap: over the front of the left end again and round behind it. Finally bring it back up on the right, over its own strand. Pull snug.

3. 3

   Single second throw: left over right

   Now only once and exactly the other way round, as in the reef knot: lay the end that lies on the left over the right one. Take it round behind the right end, below this crossing, and bring it back up on the left, over its own strand.

4. 4

   Set and check

   Pull tight. The ends should lie on the same side as in the reef knot.

Common mistakes

• ×Tying the second throw the same way (granny knot)
• ×Using it to join two load-bearing ropes

Limits and risks

• –Binding knot only; not for joining loaded ropes.

Sources

1. [1]

   Clifford W. Ashley – Doubleday, Doran & Co. (1944): The Ashley Book of Knots

2. [2]

   Geoffrey Budworth (1997): The Complete Book of Knots

Rev. 1 · Online version: https://survivebetter.com/en/explore/knots/knot-surgeons-knot