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Shelter and protection
Keep out wind, wet, cold and heat
SurviveBetter · As of 2026-10-12 · 43 entries
A shelter protects against heat loss, wet and sun. Site selection and ground insulation are often more important than the structure itself.
01 · Fundamentals and site · Expert review pending
How the body loses heat
The body loses heat in four ways: conduction, convection, radiation and evaporation. A shelter is only as good as its ability to interrupt these paths – a roof and walls are not enough if the ground draws heat away or clothing is wet.
Hypothermia can develop above freezing, especially in wet and windy conditions. Intense shivering, confusion, clumsiness or drowsiness are warning signs: get out of wind and wet and call emergency services if the condition worsens.
Wet clothing loses much of its insulation, and water conducts heat far better than air. Staying dry takes priority over almost everything else.
Steps
1
Interrupt conduction
Never sit or lie directly on ground, snow or rock. Put a sleeping pad, dry vegetation or a backpack in between.
2
Reduce convection
Choose a sheltered spot, turn the closed side of the shelter into the wind and wear a windproof outer layer.
3
Screen radiation
A roof over the sleeping spot reduces radiation to the clear night sky. A hat and hood protect the head.
4
Limit evaporation
Shed layers before you sweat, change out of wet clothing as soon as dry clothing is available, and put on rain gear early.
Conduction into the ground – and how an insulating layer interrupts it
The four paths of heat loss – and what helps against each
Common mistakes
×Thinking only about a roof and forgetting the ground
×Settling down in sweat-soaked clothing
×Underestimating wind because the air temperature seems mild
×Reacting only once intense shivering has already set in
Limits and risks
–Does not replace first-aid training
–Says nothing about heat protection and overheating
Sources
[1]
Wilderness & Environmental Medicine (Wilderness Medical Society) (2019): Wilderness Medical Society Clinical Practice Guidelines for the Out-of-Hospital Evaluation and Treatment of Accidental Hypothermia: 2019 Update
[2]
Headquarters, Department of the Army (USA) (2002): FM 3-05.70 Survival
02 · Fundamentals and site · Expert review pending
Choosing a shelter site
The site often decides more about a safe night than the structure itself. A good spot is slightly raised, level, sheltered from wind and free of hazards from above, below and the sides.
Never camp beneath dead branches or dead, leaning trees. They can fall without warning, especially in wind, rain or under snow load.
Dry streambeds, gullies and banks can fill rapidly with water when it rains, even far upstream. Never sleep there.
Avoid exposed ridges, summits and solitary trees when thunderstorms are possible.
Steps
1
Start early
Choose the spot in daylight. In the dark, overhead hazards and watercourses are easily missed.
2
Look up
Check trees, branches and slopes above the spot: dead branches, dead trees, loose rocks, signs of rockfall at the foot of the slope.
3
Look down
Avoid hollows, gullies, streambeds and flood debris lines. Check the ground for damp, roots, stones and ant nests.
4
Assess the wind
Determine the wind direction and use natural cover from terrain, rocks or dense vegetation without dropping into a cold-air hollow.
5
Find a level sleeping area
Choose a level, slightly raised area where rainwater drains away instead of pooling. On a slight slope, lie with your head uphill.
6
Respect the rules
Follow local rules on overnight stays, fire and protected areas – they differ widely between countries and regions.
Hazards in the landscape and a suitable spot
Common mistakes
×Camping at the lowest, seemingly calm point of a hollow
×Using a dry streambed as a convenient level spot
×Starting the search only after dark
×Not looking up
Limits and risks
–No detailed assessment of avalanche or flood danger
–The legal situation must be checked locally
Sources
[1]
Headquarters, Department of the Army (USA) (2002): FM 3-05.70 Survival
03 · Fundamentals and site · Expert review pending
Tree wells in deep snow: hazard, not shelter
Around conifers, deep snow often forms a funnel of loose snow because the branches shield the trunk from snowfall. Anyone who falls in head first may be unable to free themselves and can suffocate. Older manuals describe tree wells as shelter – in loose deep snow the danger outweighs the benefit.
A head-first fall into a tree well can lead to suffocation in snow. Keep clear of trees in deep snow, never travel alone in deep-snow forest and keep companions in sight at all times.
If someone has disappeared: have someone call the local emergency number (112 in the EU) at once and search at the same time. Clearing the airway takes priority; dig from the side towards the head with a shovel rather than stepping in from above.
Snow on the branches can fall and bury a tree well or a shelter beneath it.
Steps
1
Recognise
With plenty of fresh snow and dense conifers, expect tree wells even if no hollow is visible.
2
Keep your distance
In deep snow keep as wide a distance from trunks as possible, especially when descending.
3
Partner in sight
Travel in pairs or groups so you can see and hear each other.
4
If you fall
If possible hold on to branches or the trunk, use your hands to create an air space in front of your face, stay calm to avoid sinking deeper, and call or whistle for help.
5
Avoid as a shelter
For an emergency bivouac choose a sheltered spot beside the tree, not in the funnel, and watch for snow in the branches above.
Common mistakes
×Skiing or riding close past trees
×Being alone in deep-snow forest
×Using a tree well as a convenient sleeping spot
Limits and risks
–No rescue or treatment instructions beyond basic principles
–No statistics
Sources
[1]
Headquarters, Department of the Army (USA) (2002): FM 3-05.70 Survival
[2]
European Resuscitation Council – Resuscitation (journal) (2021): European Resuscitation Council Guidelines 2021: First Aid
04 · Fundamentals and site · Expert review pending
Natural shelters: rock overhang, root plate, terrain edge
Rock overhangs, fallen trees or terrain edges can quickly offer protection from rain and wind without much building. But every natural shelter must be checked for rockfall, flooding, unstable root plates, animals and lightning danger. Never enter caves or mine tunnels beyond the front overhang.
Watch for rockfall under overhangs: fresh fracture surfaces, rocks on the ground and loose blocks are warning signs. Rockfall is more frequent with freeze-thaw cycles and rain.
Do not enter caves or mine tunnels: collapse, disorientation, bad air, water and shafts. Only the front, open part of an overhang is an option.
Shallow overhangs and cave entrances do not protect against lightning. During thunderstorms there is no safe place outdoors; avoid exposed spots and get into a building or vehicle in good time.
Overhangs along streams and in dry washes can flood in heavy rain. Watch for high-water marks such as debris.
Upturned root plates of fallen trees can tip back. Do not camp under or directly behind them.
Wild camping, bivouacking, collecting material and fires are regulated very differently from region to region. Check local rules, do not damage living trees and leave the site without a trace.
Materials
Sleeping pad – Rock draws away a lot of heat
Tarp(optional) – To close the open side
Headlamp / flashlight(optional)
Steps
1
Check above
Check the rock for cracks, loose blocks and fresh fracture surfaces; look on the ground for fallen rocks.
2
Check water paths
Do not camp in gullies, streambeds or hollows; look for debris and flood lines.
3
Watch for animals
Tracks, droppings or nests are a sign the place is already in use – then move on.
4
Use only the front area
Stay under the open overhang; do not go into dark areas or tunnels.
5
Insulate and close
Put a sleeping pad or dry material underneath; close the open side against wind with a tarp, backpack or emergency blanket.
Common mistakes
×Overlooking signs of rockfall
×Camping in dry washes in rain
×Exploring deeper into a cave
×Lying directly on rock without insulation
×Fire under the overhang (smoke, damage to rock, often prohibited)
Limits and risks
–No geological assessment
–No protection from lightning
Sources
[1]
Headquarters, Department of the Army (USA) (2002): FM 3-05.70 Survival
[2]
NOAA National Weather Service (USA): Lightning Safety
A tarp is draped symmetrically over a tensioned ridgeline and staked out at all four corners. The A-frame protects from rain on both sides and, with the narrow end turned into the wind, gives reasonable wind protection.
Use only healthy, living trees as anchors and check for dead branches above before pitching.
Do not run a stove or fire under the tarp – fire and carbon monoxide risk.
Materials
Tarp
Paracord – For ridgeline and guylines
Rope(optional) – Alternative for the ridgeline
Tent stakes
Sturdy sticks / poles(optional) – As a substitute for stakes
Trekking poles(optional) – As supports where there are no trees
Sleeping pad – The tarp does not insulate from the ground
Steps
1
Choose site and orientation
Choose a safe site between two sturdy trees. Orient the long axis so that one narrow end faces into the wind.
2
Rig the ridgeline
Tie the line to one tree with a bowline or clove hitch and tension it at the other with a taut-line hitch or two half hitches. Set the height so you can sit underneath; lower it in wind.
The ridgeline is a roof ridge only – never use it to secure or hold people.
3
Drape the tarp
Lay the tarp centrally over the line so both sides hang down equally. Attach any centre tie-outs to the ridgeline.
4
Stake the corners
Pull the four corners diagonally outwards and stake them with tent stakes or sharpened sticks. Make the guylines adjustable with a taut-line hitch.
5
Tension wrinkle-free
Tension the panels so no pockets form where water can pool. Stake the side edges lower in rain.
6
Drip line and ground
Hang a short piece of cord from the ridgeline just before the tarp so water running along the line drips off there. Place a pad or groundsheet under the tarp.
7
Re-tension
Re-tension after a while and when the weather changes – wet lines and tarps stretch.
A-frame: narrow end into the wind
Common mistakes
×Turning the broad side into the wind
×Rigging the ridgeline too high so rain drives in from the side
×Slack panels where water pools
×Pitching under dead branches
×Going without ground insulation
Limits and risks
–No protection from ground cold
–Limited protection in storms and driving rain
–No insect protection
Sources
[1]
Headquarters, Department of the Army (USA) (2002): FM 3-05.70 Survival
One edge of the tarp is raised on a ridgeline and the opposite edge staked to the ground on the windward side. The lean-to offers plenty of room and an open view but protects only as long as the wind keeps coming from the expected direction.
Use only healthy, living trees as anchors and check for dead branches above before pitching.
A fire in front of the open side can carry sparks and smoke into the tarp; many tarp fabrics melt or burn. Do not run a stove under the tarp and respect local fire bans.
Materials
Tarp
Paracord – For ridgeline and guylines
Rope(optional) – Alternative for the ridgeline
Tent stakes
Sturdy sticks / poles(optional) – As substitute stakes or supports
Trekking poles(optional) – As supports for the high edge
Sleeping pad – The tarp does not insulate from the ground
Steps
1
Determine the wind direction
Check the wind direction and judge whether it is likely to hold. Choose the site so the back of the tarp faces the wind.
2
Rig the ridgeline
Tension the line between two trees across the wind, with a bowline or clove hitch at one end and a taut-line hitch or two half hitches at the other.
The ridgeline is a roof ridge only – never use it to secure or hold people.
3
Attach the high edge
Attach one long edge of the tarp to the ridgeline and secure the corners to the line or the trees with short cords.
4
Stake the windward edge
Pull the opposite edge taut to the ground on the windward side and fix it with stakes or sticks. The flatter the angle, the better the wind protection and the less room.
5
Seal the edge and ground
Stake the low edge as gap-free as possible so no wind blows underneath. Place a pad or groundsheet in the sheltered area.
6
Watch the weather
If the wind shifts, re-pitch in good time – for example as an A-frame – rather than being caught out at night.
Lean-to: back to the wind
Common mistakes
×Turning the open side into the wind
×Checking the wind direction only once
×Leaving gaps under the low edge
×Placing a fire too close to the open side
Limits and risks
–No protection from ground cold
–No protection when the wind shifts
–No insect protection
Sources
[1]
Headquarters, Department of the Army (USA) (2002): FM 3-05.70 Survival
A square tarp is raised at one corner and staked out at the other three. The result is a wedge-shaped one-person shelter that needs only one pole or tree and shields well when its low point faces the wind. The names "diamond" and "plow point" are not used consistently in the literature.
Do not pitch under dead trees or broken or hanging branches – they can fall without warning in wind or under snow or ice load. Look up before you pitch.
No stove, candle or fire under or directly next to the tarp: synthetic material melts and burns, and carbon monoxide can collect in enclosed spaces.
Wild camping, bivouacking, collecting material and fires are regulated very differently from region to region. Check local rules, do not damage living trees and leave the site without a trace.
Materials
Tarp – A square tarp works best
Paracord – For the high corner and guylines
Tent stakes – Three or more; sticks or rocks as a substitute
Trekking poles(optional) – Substitute for a tree at the high corner
Sleeping pad
Steps
1
Determine the wind direction
Work out where wind and rain are coming from. The low corner points that way.
2
Fix the low corner
Stake the corner that faces the wind firmly into the ground.
3
Raise the high corner
Tie the opposite corner to a tree or pole at about sitting to chest height. The lower, the more sheltered and the more cramped.
4
Stake the side corners
Stake both side corners outwards and slightly backwards until the panels are smooth.
5
Re-tension and check
Smooth out wrinkles, tighten the hitches, lie under the tarp and check that feet and head are covered.
Common mistakes
×Point not turned into the wind
×High corner too high – rain blows in
×Tarp too small for body length along the diagonal
×Not considering where puddles will form under the sleeping area
Limits and risks
–No tarp size given – depends on body height and tarp shape
–Unsuitable for storms from changing directions
Sources
[1]
Headquarters, Department of the Army (USA) (2002): FM 3-05.70 Survival
[2]
Wilderness & Environmental Medicine (Wilderness Medical Society) (2019): Wilderness Medical Society Clinical Practice Guidelines for the Out-of-Hospital Evaluation and Treatment of Accidental Hypothermia: 2019 Update
In a C-fly the tarp hangs over a ridgeline: a short part forms a front awning, the long part runs down to the ground at the back and is folded forward underneath as a groundsheet. In profile it resembles a "C". The pitch shields your back from wind, keeps the floor dry and stays open at the front.
Do not pitch under dead trees or broken or hanging branches – they can fall without warning in wind or under snow or ice load. Look up before you pitch.
No stove, candle or fire under or directly next to the tarp: synthetic material melts and burns, and carbon monoxide can collect in enclosed spaces.
Wild camping, bivouacking, collecting material and fires are regulated very differently from region to region. Check local rules, do not damage living trees and leave the site without a trace.
Materials
Tarp – Long enough for roof, back wall and floor
Paracord – Ridgeline and guylines
Tent stakes
Sleeping pad
Steps
1
Rig the ridgeline
Tie a line between two trees at about chest to shoulder height, across the wind direction.
2
Drape the tarp unevenly
Lay the tarp over the line so that only a short awning hangs at the front and the long part reaches the ground at the back.
3
Stake the back wall
Stake the back wall tightly along the ground line so that it falls steeply.
4
Fold the floor
Fold the rest of the tarp forward under the roof as a groundsheet. The fold should sit slightly raised so rainwater does not run in.
5
Guy out the awning
Guy the short awning forwards and down with two lines.
Common mistakes
×Open side turned into the wind
×Groundsheet on a slope – water runs under or onto it
×Back wall too shallow – rain pools in sags
×Mistaking the groundsheet for insulation
Limits and risks
–The groundsheet does not protect against ground cold
–No measurements – they depend on tarp size
Sources
[1]
Headquarters, Department of the Army (USA) (2002): FM 3-05.70 Survival
[2]
Wilderness & Environmental Medicine (Wilderness Medical Society) (2019): Wilderness Medical Society Clinical Practice Guidelines for the Out-of-Hospital Evaluation and Treatment of Accidental Hypothermia: 2019 Update
A variation of the A-frame in which one end of the tarp is folded in and staked so that the weather side is closed. The result resembles a small tent with an open entrance on the lee side. The pitch is shorter than a normal A-frame and takes some practice to fold.
Do not pitch under dead trees or broken or hanging branches – they can fall without warning in wind or under snow or ice load. Look up before you pitch.
No stove, candle or fire under or directly next to the tarp: synthetic material melts and burns, and carbon monoxide can collect in enclosed spaces.
The more closed the pitch, the more condensation. Leave the entrance or a vent open.
Wild camping, bivouacking, collecting material and fires are regulated very differently from region to region. Check local rules, do not damage living trees and leave the site without a trace.
Materials
Tarp – Square tarps are particularly suitable; many tie-outs help
Paracord
Tent stakes – More stakes than for an A-frame
Trekking poles(optional)
Sleeping pad
Steps
1
Choose the weather side
Determine where wind and rain come from. That end will be closed.
2
Rig a low ridgeline
Rig a ridgeline or set up a pole at the entrance. Towards the closed end the ridge can drop to the ground.
3
Fold in the end
Fold the rear end of the tarp into a triangle so that the end is closed, and stake down the folded corners.
4
Stake the sides
Stake the sides taut and evenly; first the corners, then the midpoints.
5
Check the interior
Lie inside, check the length, keep ventilation at the entrance, re-tension after rain and wind.
Common mistakes
×Closed end not facing the weather
×Interior too short after folding
×Fully closed – heavy condensation
×Folded corners not secured; the wind tears them open
Limits and risks
–Not a substitute for a storm-worthy tent
–Insect protection only with an additional net
Sources
[1]
Headquarters, Department of the Army (USA) (2002): FM 3-05.70 Survival
[2]
Wilderness & Environmental Medicine (Wilderness Medical Society) (2019): Wilderness Medical Society Clinical Practice Guidelines for the Out-of-Hospital Evaluation and Treatment of Accidental Hypothermia: 2019 Update
The Adirondack is a lean-to whose sides are pulled down to create a shelter closed on three sides with an open front. It is roomy, well ventilated and protects better against side wind than a simple lean-to.
Do not pitch under dead trees or broken or hanging branches – they can fall without warning in wind or under snow or ice load. Look up before you pitch.
No stove, candle or fire under or directly next to the tarp: synthetic material melts and burns, and carbon monoxide can collect in enclosed spaces.
Wild camping, bivouacking, collecting material and fires are regulated very differently from region to region. Check local rules, do not damage living trees and leave the site without a trace.
Materials
Tarp – A larger tarp so the roof and side walls are covered
Paracord
Tent stakes
Sleeping pad
Steps
1
Rig the ridgeline
Rig a ridgeline between two trees at chest to head height, back to the wind.
2
Offset the tarp
Lay the tarp over the line so that there is enough material behind for the back wall and at the sides for the walls.
3
Stake the back
Stake the back taut down to the ground.
4
Pull down the wings
Pull the side corners forward and down and stake them so the sides are closed.
5
Secure the front
Guy the front edge slightly forward so that it does not flap.
Common mistakes
×Front facing the wind
×Side walls too loose – flapping
×Tarp too small for three walls
Limits and risks
–Ineffective with wind from the front
–No ground insulation
Sources
[1]
Headquarters, Department of the Army (USA) (2002): FM 3-05.70 Survival
[2]
Wilderness & Environmental Medicine (Wilderness Medical Society) (2019): Wilderness Medical Society Clinical Practice Guidelines for the Out-of-Hospital Evaluation and Treatment of Accidental Hypothermia: 2019 Update
A hammock between two healthy trees with a tarp above keeps you off wet, uneven or crawling ground. Because cold air passes underneath, it almost always needs insulation under the body. Wide tree straps protect the bark; in some areas hammocks on trees are not permitted.
Do not pitch under dead trees or broken or hanging branches – they can fall without warning in wind or under snow or ice load. Look up before you pitch.
Hang the hammock only so high that you can reach the ground when sitting; load-test the suspension and trees before lying in it.
A sleeping bag is compressed under the body and barely insulates there. Without a sleeping pad or underquilt you can get cold even in mild temperatures.
Wild camping, bivouacking, collecting material and fires are regulated very differently from region to region. Check local rules, do not damage living trees and leave the site without a trace.
Materials
Hammock
Tarp – Longer than the hammock
Paracord
Sleeping pad – Or an underquilt against cold from below
Tent stakes
Sleeping bag
Steps
1
Choose trees
Choose two healthy, living trees with no dead branches above. Use wide straps instead of thin cord to protect the bark.
2
Hang the hammock
Hang with a moderate sag; hammocks pitched too tight are uncomfortable and put more load on trees and suspension.
3
Pitch the tarp above
Rig a ridgeline above the hammock and pitch the tarp as an A-frame or diamond so that both ends are covered.
4
Add drip lines
Short cords on the suspension stop rainwater running along the straps into the hammock.
5
Insulate underneath
Put a sleeping pad in the hammock or attach an underquilt, then the sleeping bag.
6
Test
Load carefully, lie diagonally (lies flatter) and check that the tarp covers enough.
Common mistakes
×Sleeping without underside insulation
×Hanging too high
×Thin cord around the trees – bark damage
×Dead trees as anchors
×No drip lines
Limits and risks
–No figures for the load capacity of trees or suspension
–Legal situation varies by region
Sources
[1]
Leave No Trace Center for Outdoor Ethics: The Seven Principles of Leave No Trace (Principle 5: Minimize Campfire Impacts)
https://lnt.org
[2]
Wilderness & Environmental Medicine (Wilderness Medical Society) (2019): Wilderness Medical Society Clinical Practice Guidelines for the Out-of-Hospital Evaluation and Treatment of Accidental Hypothermia: 2019 Update
A bivy bag is a waterproof or water-resistant cover for a sleeping bag and pad. For a planned night it is the lightest shelter, but it only protects the body, not gear or room to move. Breathable models reduce condensation but do not eliminate it.
Never fully close off your face and breathing opening. Never pull a bivy bag over your head unless it is designed for it; never put plastic bags over your head.
Moisture forms inside and can dampen down sleeping bags. Air it out in the morning and dry the sleeping bag on multi-day trips.
Do not choose a spot in gullies or hollows; a bivy bag does not protect against water flowing from below.
Materials
Bivy bag
Sleeping pad
Sleeping bag
Tarp(optional) – A small tarp over the head area for rain
Dry bag(optional) – For gear
Steps
1
Choose a spot
A level, slightly raised spot out of the wind, without rockfall or falling-branch risk, not in hollows.
2
Insert the pad
Put the sleeping pad inside the bivy bag or underneath, then the sleeping bag.
3
Secure gear
Stow shoes and gear dry in a stuff sack or backpack, lamp within reach.
4
Adjust the opening
Adjust the head opening so that rain is kept off but fresh air reaches your face.
5
Air out in the morning
Air out the bivy bag and sleeping bag and dry them when possible.
Common mistakes
×Face fully enclosed
×Lying in a hollow
×Sleeping pad slips out
×Not drying the sleeping bag over several days
Limits and risks
–No statements about the breathability of specific materials
–Not a substitute for a tent in prolonged rain
Sources
[1]
The Mountaineers Books (2017): Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills, 9th edition
[2]
Wilderness & Environmental Medicine (Wilderness Medical Society) (2019): Wilderness Medical Society Clinical Practice Guidelines for the Out-of-Hospital Evaluation and Treatment of Accidental Hypothermia: 2019 Update
In storm and rain, the site, the order of steps and the guying decide whether a tent holds. Look for shelter from the wind, put the low end into the wind, never let go of the tent while pitching and use all guylines. In thunderstorms or storms in exposed places, retreating is often wiser than any pitch.
A tent does not protect against lightning. In thunderstorms avoid ridges, summits, isolated trees and open areas and get into a building or vehicle in good time.
Do not pitch under dead trees or broken or hanging branches – they can fall without warning in wind or under snow or ice load. Look up before you pitch.
In rain do not cook inside the tent or in a closed vestibule: fire and carbon monoxide danger.
Do not camp in hollows, dry streambeds or right on the bank – water can rise quickly in heavy rain.
Materials
Tent
Tent stakes – All stakes plus spares
Paracord(optional) – Extra guylines
Sleeping pad
Steps
1
Find a sheltered spot
Use natural shelter from the wind, but no hollow; look up for dead branches.
2
Orient
Low or narrow end into the wind, entrance on the lee side.
3
Secure the windward side first
Spread the tent out flat and stake the windward corners first; never let go of the tent.
4
Insert the poles
Insert the poles and raise the tent. With tents that allow fly-first pitching, put the fly up first so the inner stays dry.
5
Guy all lines
Use and tighten all guylines; set stakes angled away from the tent, in soft ground secure them with rocks or as buried anchors.
6
Ventilate and keep clearance
Keep vents open; the inner tent must not touch the fly.
7
Check during the night
Retighten lines as the wind increases; knock snow off the fly.
Common mistakes
×Broad side into the wind
×Letting go of the tent while pitching
×Not using the guylines
×Inner tent touching the fly
×Camping in a hollow
×Cooking inside the tent
Limits and risks
–No figures for the wind resistance of particular tents
–No lightning protection
Sources
[1]
The Mountaineers Books (2017): Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills, 9th edition
[2]
NOAA National Weather Service (USA): Lightning Safety
Whether a hammock is comfortable and safe depends mainly on the hang: healthy trees, wide tree straps, a sag that is not too tight, a low height above the ground and a diagonal lie. Insulation under the body is almost always needed because the hammock is cooled from below.
Do not pitch under dead trees or broken or hanging branches – they can fall without warning in wind or under snow or ice load. Look up before you pitch.
Hang it only high enough to sit in comfortably – a fall from height can cause serious injury. No rock edges, stones or branches directly underneath.
Load straps, carabiners and hammock only within the manufacturer's limits and check them for wear before each use. Test with your body weight before lying down.
Wild camping, bivouacking, hammocks on trees and collecting material are regulated very differently from region to region. Check local rules and leave the site without a trace.
Materials
Hammock
Tree straps – Wide enough to protect the bark
Sleeping pad – Or an underquilt as insulation from below
Tarp(optional) – As a rain roof above
Steps
1
Check the trees
Choose two living, healthy trees with no dead branches above. No saplings, dead trunks or posts of unknown stability.
2
Fit the tree straps
Put wide straps around the trunks at about head height. Thin cord directly around the trunk cuts into the bark.
3
Set the sag
Hang the hammock with a clear sag rather than pulling it tight; the suspension should run downwards at an angle.
4
Check the height
Loaded, the hammock should hang at about sitting height. Test carefully with your body weight before lying down.
5
Insulate from below
Attach an underquilt outside or lay a sleeping pad inside the hammock.
6
Lie diagonally
Lie at an angle – head slightly to one side of centre, feet to the other. This gives a flatter lie.
Common mistakes
×Pulled too tight – high forces and a "banana" lie
×Hung too high
×Thin cord directly around the bark
×No insulation from below on a cool night
×Not tested before lying down
Limits and risks
–The 30-degree angle is a rule of thumb, not a measured value
–No figures for tree diameters or breaking loads
Sources
[1]
Leave No Trace Center for Outdoor Ethics: The Seven Principles of Leave No Trace (Principle 5: Minimize Campfire Impacts)
https://lnt.org
[2]
Wilderness & Environmental Medicine (Wilderness Medical Society) (2019): Wilderness Medical Society Clinical Practice Guidelines for the Out-of-Hospital Evaluation and Treatment of Accidental Hypothermia: 2019 Update
Pitching a tent: the basic routine in calm weather
A tent stands only as well as the site, stakes and guying allow. Practising the pitch at home, checking the site before unpacking, setting the stakes correctly and tensioning all lines evenly means less stress in the evening and a drier, quieter tent at night.
Do not pitch under dead trees or broken or hanging branches – they can fall without warning in wind or under snow or ice load. Look up before you pitch.
Never run stoves, heaters, grills or candles inside a tent, vestibule or closed shelter – carbon monoxide is invisible, odourless and can be lethal.
Wild camping, bivouacking, hammocks on trees and collecting material are regulated very differently from region to region. Check local rules and leave the site without a trace.
Materials
Tent
Tent stakes
Plastic sheet / large bin bag(optional) – Groundsheet that does not stick out beyond the fly
Sleeping pad
Steps
1
Check the site
Level, slightly raised, free of stones and roots, not in a hollow or stream bed, no dead branches above. Turn the entrance away from the wind.
2
Lay out
Lay out groundsheet and tent; the groundsheet must not stick out beyond the tent's edge, or it collects rain under the floor.
3
Set the stakes
Insert stakes vertically or angled slightly away from the tent, with the line at right angles to the stake. Windward corners first.
4
Raise poles and tent
Insert poles according to the instructions; fully seat the joints so they do not split.
5
Guy out
Attach all guylines and tension them evenly until the fly is wrinkle-free and does not touch the inner tent.
6
Open vents
Open the vents, even in cool weather, to reduce condensation.
7
Re-tension
Re-tension after an hour and before sleeping – many tent fabrics stretch when wet and cold.
Common mistakes
×First pitch done in the dark on a trip
×Groundsheet sticks out and collects water
×Guylines not used
×Fly touches the inner tent
×Pitched in a hollow
Limits and risks
–General routine; the manufacturer's instructions take precedence
–For storms see the separate entry
Sources
[1]
The Mountaineers Books (2017): Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills, 9th edition
[2]
Leave No Trace Center for Outdoor Ethics: The Seven Principles of Leave No Trace (Principle 5: Minimize Campfire Impacts)
Normal stakes hardly hold in snow. You stamp out a level platform, anchor lines with buried objects (deadman anchors) or wide snow stakes and keep vents and entrance clear of snow overnight. Avalanche terrain is excluded.
Avalanche terrain is not covered by this entry. Never camp on or below slopes, under cornices or in gullies. Anyone travelling in steep snowy terrain needs avalanche training and the current avalanche forecast.
Never run stoves, heaters, grills or candles inside a tent, vestibule or closed shelter – carbon monoxide is invisible, odourless and can be lethal.
Snowfall and drifting can collapse the tent and block vents. Knock off or dig out the snow from outside regularly during the night.
Strong shivering, confusion, clumsiness or unusual drowsiness can be signs of hypothermia. Do not wait: call the local emergency number (112 in the EU) and protect the person from further heat loss.
Materials
Tent
Snow shovel
Sturdy sticks / poles – Or stuff sacks filled with snow, skis, poles as deadman anchors
Paracord – Extra cord to extend lines
Sleeping pad – Two pads on snow are advisable
Steps
1
Choose a safe spot
Flat terrain away from slopes, slope feet, cornices and trees loaded with snow.
2
Stamp a platform
Stamp an area larger than the tent level with skis or snowshoes and let it rest briefly if there is time.
3
Prepare anchors
Tie lines to sticks, skis, poles or snow-filled bags and bury them crosswise to the direction of pull.
4
Pitch the tent
Secure the tent against blowing away (always hold or tie it), anchor the windward side first, then raise it and tension all lines.
5
Dig out the vestibule
Dig a pit in the vestibule – makes sitting and putting on boots easier. Still only run the stove outdoors.
6
Check during the night
Keep vents open, knock off snow load, re-tension lines.
Common mistakes
×Normal stakes in loose snow
×Letting go of the tent while pitching
×Pitched at the foot of a slope
×Stove in the vestibule
×Vent blocked by snow
Limits and risks
–Avalanche knowledge is not part of this entry
–No figures for anchor holding strength
Sources
[1]
The Mountaineers Books (2017): Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills, 9th edition
[2]
Wilderness & Environmental Medicine (Wilderness Medical Society) (2019): Wilderness Medical Society Clinical Practice Guidelines for the Out-of-Hospital Evaluation and Treatment of Accidental Hypothermia: 2019 Update
A tarp is guyed out raised at all corners to form an open roof over a cooking area, seating or gear. It protects several people from rain and sun but gives hardly any wind protection. To prevent water pooling, the roof must slope or be raised in the middle.
Do not pitch under dead trees or broken or hanging branches – they can fall without warning in wind or under snow or ice load. Look up before you pitch.
Run stoves and fires only well away from the tarp and only where permitted – hot air rises and can melt or ignite the material.
A high flat roof acts like a sail. Lower or take it down when the wind picks up, before poles topple or grommets tear.
Wild camping, bivouacking, hammocks on trees and collecting material are regulated very differently from region to region. Check local rules and leave the site without a trace.
Materials
Tarp – Large tarp with many grommets
Paracord
Trekking poles(optional) – Or poles as supports
Tent stakes
Steps
1
Choose a site
Sheltered from wind, without dead branches, with anchor points at a suitable distance.
2
Raise the corners
Attach the corners to trees or to poles with two guylines each.
3
Build in a slope
Set one side lower than the other so rain runs off in one direction – not onto the path or into the seating area.
4
Raise the centre
With large tarps, raise the centre with a pole or a line pulling upwards so no water pockets form.
5
Tension and check
Re-tension evenly and check in rain whether water is collecting anywhere.
Common mistakes
×Roof completely horizontal
×Run-off directed into the seating area
×Too high in wind
×Cooking area directly underneath
Limits and risks
–No dimensions or wind limits
–For sleeping areas only in calm weather
Sources
[1]
Mors L. Kochanski – Lone Pine Publishing: Bushcraft: Outdoor Skills and Wilderness Survival
[2]
Leave No Trace Center for Outdoor Ethics: The Seven Principles of Leave No Trace (Principle 5: Minimize Campfire Impacts)
Unlike a tent, a tarp can be reshaped at night: lower the ridgeline, pull the weather side to the ground, add guylines and re-tension. Choosing a basic pitch that is easy to adapt and acting early keeps you dry when wind and rain arrive. In storms or thunderstorms in exposed places, retreating matters more than any adjustment.
Do not pitch under dead trees or broken or hanging branches – they can fall without warning in wind or under snow or ice load. Look up before you pitch.
In thunderstorms or storms in exposed terrain, retreating to a safer place matters more than adjusting the tarp. In forest during storms, watch out for falling trees and branches.
Strong shivering, confusion, clumsiness or unusual drowsiness can be signs of hypothermia. Do not wait: call the local emergency number (112 in the EU) and protect the person from further heat loss.
Materials
Tarp
Paracord – Extra lines within reach
Tent stakes – A few more than needed
Headlamp / flashlight
Steps
1
Watch the weather
Before sleeping, check clouds, wind direction and forecast; arrange gear so it can be reached in the dark.
2
React early
Act at the first gusts or drops, not only when the sleeping bag is wet.
3
Lower
Lower the ridgeline or shorten the poles; the surface becomes steeper and smaller.
4
Close the weather side
Stake the windward side down to the ground, fold one end in or switch to a closed form.
5
Add guylines
Add lines at the middle tie-outs and re-tension all hitches.
6
Check during the night
In rain, check occasionally whether water is collecting or lines are slackening.
Common mistakes
×Reacting too late
×No spare lines within reach
×Keeping a high open pitch in a storm
×Not re-tensioning a nylon tarp after rain
Limits and risks
–No wind speeds or load limits
–For thunderstorm behaviour see the separate entry
Sources
[1]
Mors L. Kochanski – Lone Pine Publishing: Bushcraft: Outdoor Skills and Wilderness Survival
[2]
Headquarters, Department of the Army (USA) (2002): FM 3-05.70 Survival
Emergency bivouac with blanket, bivvy bag or bin bag
An emergency blanket, bivvy bag or large bin bag can give short-term protection from wind and wet during an unplanned night or while waiting for help. A sheltered spot and insulation from the ground are essential. An emergency bivouac does not replace proper equipment.
Never pull a plastic bag or sheet over your head – risk of suffocation. Always leave an opening for the face; with a bin bag, cut a hole for the face rather than crawling in head first.
An emergency bivouac is a short-term stopgap only and does not replace proper equipment. At signs of hypothermia or if the situation worsens, call emergency services early.
Emergency blankets conduct electricity – keep them away from power lines.
Materials
Emergency blanket(optional)
Plastic sheet / large bin bag(optional) – Large, strong bin bag – never pull over the head
Sleeping pad(optional)
Backpack(optional) – As ground insulation
Dry leaves, grass or conifer boughs(optional) – As ground insulation
Headlamp / flashlight(optional) – To be seen and to find your way
Steps
1
Decide early
If it becomes clear the destination cannot be reached safely, stop early while there is still daylight, energy and dry clothing. Alert help if possible.
2
Find a sheltered spot
Use the lee of rocks, terrain or dense vegetation, but avoid hollows, gullies and hazards from above.
3
Insulate from the ground
Sit or lie on a pad, backpack, rope or a thick layer of dry vegetation – never directly on the ground. Sitting huddled on the backpack reduces the contact area.
4
Put on all clothing
Put on dry spare clothing, hat and gloves before closing the cover. Swap wet layers for dry ones where possible.
5
Put the cover on
Climb into the bivvy bag or bin bag up to the shoulders, or wrap the emergency blanket tightly around the body. The face always stays uncovered.
Never put your head inside a plastic bag.
6
Huddle and stay visible
In a group, huddle closely together. Use a headlamp and bright colours to stay visible to rescuers.
7
Monitor condition
Watch each other for shivering, confusion and drowsiness and call emergency services if things get worse.
Common mistakes
×Treating the emergency blanket as a full shelter
×Lying on cold ground without insulation
×Stopping too late, when clothing is already wet and energy spent
×Pulling the sheet over the head
×Letting the blanket flap loosely in the wind until it tears
Limits and risks
–Intended for short periods only
–No substitute for sleeping bag, pad and tent or tarp
–No protection from ground cold without an extra insulating layer
Sources
[1]
Wilderness & Environmental Medicine (Wilderness Medical Society) (2019): Wilderness Medical Society Clinical Practice Guidelines for the Out-of-Hospital Evaluation and Treatment of Accidental Hypothermia: 2019 Update
[2]
Headquarters, Department of the Army (USA) (2002): FM 3-05.70 Survival
A debris hut is a narrow, wedge-shaped shelter made from a ridgepole, branches leaned against it and a very thick layer of dry leaves. It insulates if it is covered thickly enough, but it costs hours of work and a lot of material – and is only permissible where collecting is allowed.
The ridgepole must safely carry the weight of the cover layer and rest firmly at both ends. Check stability before crawling in. Do not use rotten poles.
Do not build under dead trees or broken, hanging branches – they can fall in wind.
Leaves and dry branches burn very easily. No fire inside or close to the hut; candles and stoves inside are off-limits.
Building is physically demanding. Shed layers to avoid soaking yourself in sweat, and start in good time.
Leaf litter can contain ticks, insects and other animals. Check your body and clothing afterwards.
Materials
Sturdy sticks / poles – One sturdy ridgepole and many branches for the frame
Dry leaves, grass or conifer boughs – Large amounts of dry leaves for insulation and the floor layer
Plastic sheet / large bin bag(optional) – As extra rain protection on top of the leaf layer
Steps
1
Choose the site
Choose a level, dry, slightly raised spot near plenty of leaves and deadwood, away from hollows, streams and dead branches overhead.
2
Place the ridgepole
Rest a sturdy pole, somewhat longer than your height, with one end on a secure support (such as a stump or forked branch) at about hip height and the other end on the ground.
Check the support for stability – the pole must not slip off.
3
Check the size
Lie underneath as a test. The interior should be just large enough to turn over in – any extra space has to be filled with body heat.
4
Lean on the ribs
Lean branches steeply against the ridgepole on both sides, close together. Leave a small entrance at the high end.
5
Cover thickly with leaves
Pile dry leaves very thickly over the frame; a thin layer is not enough. Fine twigs on top stop the wind from blowing the leaves away.
6
Insulate the floor
Fill the interior with a thick layer of dry leaves that does not compress completely under body weight.
7
Close the entrance
A pile of leaves or a backpack at the opening, which you can pull in from inside, keeps out the wind.
Common mistakes
×Starting too late in the day
×Building a hut too large for the body to warm
×Cover layer too thin
×Using wet leaves
×Forgetting the floor layer
×Building under dead trees
×Soaking yourself in sweat while building
Limits and risks
–No measurements for the leaf layer – needs depend on cold and material
–Not for heavy rain without an additional sheet
–Legal situation varies by region
Sources
[1]
Headquarters, Department of the Army (USA) (2002): FM 3-05.70 Survival
[2]
Wilderness & Environmental Medicine (Wilderness Medical Society) (2019): Wilderness Medical Society Clinical Practice Guidelines for the Out-of-Hospital Evaluation and Treatment of Accidental Hypothermia: 2019 Update
Snow insulates well, and a snow cave or trench can protect against wind and cold. But building one requires practice, a shovel, plenty of time and energy – and carries risks such as collapse, getting soaked, suffocation and carbon monoxide. This entry covers only basic principles; avalanche terrain is expressly excluded.
Avalanche terrain is not covered by this entry. Never build shelters on or below slopes, under cornices or in gullies. Anyone travelling in steep snowy terrain needs avalanche training and current avalanche forecasts.
Snow roofs can collapse and bury people. Build only with practice, never dig into a snow cave alone, and always take the shovel inside with you.
Stoves, candles and burners in a snow shelter can produce lethal amounts of carbon monoxide and use up oxygen. An open ventilation hole is mandatory; operate stoves only outdoors as a rule.
Digging in snow makes you wet and sweaty. Soaked clothing can trigger hypothermia. Shed layers, work slowly and call emergency services at signs of hypothermia.
Mark the entrance and location clearly so the shelter can be found and nobody steps on the roof.
Materials
Snow shovel – Practically indispensable
Sleeping pad – Insulation against the snow floor
Sturdy sticks / poles(optional) – To mark the entrance and as a ventilation stick
Headlamp / flashlight(optional)
Steps
1
Weigh up whether building makes sense
Check alternatives first: turning back, a hut, a vehicle, an emergency bivouac in the lee. A snow shelter is only worthwhile with a shovel, practice, enough time and energy, and dry clothing.
2
Choose a safe spot
Only flat or very gently sloping terrain with no slopes, cornices or gullies above. Choose sufficiently deep, firm snow; away from paths, ski runs and vehicle tracks.
3
Shed layers before digging
Take off insulating layers before digging and stow them dry; keep the waterproof outer layer on. Work slowly to sweat as little as possible.
4
Choose the simplest form
A simple trench in the snow, covered with a tarp, sheet or snow blocks, is usually quicker and less prone to collapse than a dug cave. Build more complex structures only after supervised practice.
5
Ensure ventilation
Make a ventilation hole in the roof and keep it clear regularly, for example with a stick. Do not seal the entrance completely.
No stove or candle in the enclosed space.
6
Insulate from the snow
Lie on a sleeping pad, backpack or other insulation, never directly on snow. Take the shovel and equipment inside with you.
7
Mark and inform
Mark the entrance and roof outside and, if possible, send your location to rescuers or contacts.
Common mistakes
×Building near slopes or under cornices
×Trying to dig a cave without a shovel or practice
×Soaking the insulating layers while digging
×Forgetting the ventilation hole or letting it drift shut
×Running a stove or candle inside
×Leaving the shovel outside
×Digging alone without anyone knowing your location
Limits and risks
–No building instructions for snow caves or igloos – principles only
–No statements about avalanche danger
–No measurements for wall or roof thickness
Sources
[1]
Headquarters, Department of the Army (USA) (2002): FM 3-05.70 Survival
[2]
World Health Organization, Regional Office for Europe (2010): WHO guidelines for indoor air quality: selected pollutants (carbon monoxide chapter)
[3]
Wilderness & Environmental Medicine (Wilderness Medical Society) (2019): Wilderness Medical Society Clinical Practice Guidelines for the Out-of-Hospital Evaluation and Treatment of Accidental Hypothermia: 2019 Update
During a power cut, gas shortage or heating breakdown, a home slowly cools down in winter. The safest approach is to keep one room warm, dress warmly and use outside help. The greatest danger is improvised heating: grills, gas stoves and generators indoors can produce lethal carbon monoxide.
Never operate charcoal or gas grills, camping stoves, patio heaters or generators in the home, basement, garage or a tent – not even with a window open. Carbon monoxide is invisible and odourless and can be lethal.
Headache, dizziness, nausea or drowsiness in several people in the same room can indicate carbon monoxide: get into fresh air immediately and call the emergency number.
Never leave candles and tealights unattended or use them near curtains, blankets or children. Battery lights are safer.
Do not use a gas hob or oven to heat the room.
Older people, infants and sick people cool down faster and often notice late. Check on them regularly and move early to warm accommodation if needed.
Headlamp / flashlight – Instead of candles where possible
Double-wall insulated bottle(optional) – To keep drinks warm
Sleeping pad(optional) – Against cold floors
Steps
1
Get information
Use radio, warning apps or official websites to find out how long the outage is expected to last and whether there are warming centres, emergency shelters or help points.
2
Choose one room
Use a small room with as few outer walls and windows as possible as the shared living space. Close doors to unused rooms.
3
Reduce draughts
Close curtains, especially at night, and reduce draughts at door gaps with blankets or towels. Air the room briefly and deliberately instead of leaving windows tilted open.
4
Wear layers
Wear several layers, a hat, socks and slippers. Change damp clothing. Sit and sleep on mats or rugs rather than cold floors.
5
Sleep warm
Use sleeping bags and several blankets, and keep beds away from cold outer walls. Several people can sleep in the same room.
6
Eat and drink
Eat regularly and drink warm drinks from vacuum flasks while available.
7
Neighbours and vulnerable people
Check on older neighbours or those living alone. If the home becomes too cold or someone shows warning signs of hypothermia, move early to warm accommodation or call the emergency number.
Common mistakes
×Running a grill, camping stove or generator indoors
×Using a gas hob or oven as a heater
×Leaving candles burning unattended
×Trying to keep the whole home warm instead of one room
×Waiting too long before going to warm accommodation
×Losing track of vulnerable relatives and neighbours
Limits and risks
–No instructions for operating stoves or heaters
–No statements about building damage such as frozen pipes
–Not medical guidance
Sources
[1]
Bundesamt für Bevölkerungsschutz und Katastrophenhilfe (BBK), Deutschland: Ratgeber für Notfallvorsorge und richtiges Handeln in Notsituationen
https://www.bbk.bund.de
[2]
World Health Organization, Regional Office for Europe (2010): WHO guidelines for indoor air quality: selected pollutants (carbon monoxide chapter)
[3]
Wilderness & Environmental Medicine (Wilderness Medical Society) (2019): Wilderness Medical Society Clinical Practice Guidelines for the Out-of-Hospital Evaluation and Treatment of Accidental Hypothermia: 2019 Update
A rain poncho with grommets can be pitched as a small lean-to or mini A-frame. It is an emergency solution for one person that keeps off rain – but the poncho is then no longer available as rainwear, and the area is small.
The hood opening is a leak: pull the hood tight and tie it inwards or upwards.
A poncho does not insulate. In the cold it only protects from wet – ground insulation and dry clothing are crucial. At signs of hypothermia call the local emergency number (112 in the EU).
Do not pitch under dead trees or broken or hanging branches – they can fall without warning in wind or under snow or ice load. Look up before you pitch.
Materials
Rain poncho
Paracord – Several pieces for the ridge and corners
Sturdy sticks / poles – As stakes or a support
Sleeping pad(optional)
Steps
1
Find shelter from the wind
Choose a spot behind rocks, terrain or dense vegetation; check overhead for dead branches.
2
Close the hood
Pull the hood tight and tie it off so no water runs through.
3
Attach the high edge
For a lean-to, attach one long edge to a line between two trees or sticks.
4
Stake the low edge
Fix the opposite edge to the ground on the weather side.
5
Insulate the ground
Put a sleeping pad, backpack or dry plant material underneath.
Common mistakes
×Leaving the hood open
×Open side facing the wind
×Lying without ground insulation
×Damaging or leaving the poncho behind
Limits and risks
–Only for one person
–Not suitable for longer stays
Sources
[1]
Headquarters, Department of the Army (USA) (2002): FM 3-05.70 Survival
[2]
Wilderness & Environmental Medicine (Wilderness Medical Society) (2019): Wilderness Medical Society Clinical Practice Guidelines for the Out-of-Hospital Evaluation and Treatment of Accidental Hypothermia: 2019 Update
A lean-to of poles with a dense covering of branches or leaves, with a small fire burning in front; a wall of logs or rocks behind the fire throws radiant heat back. It is labour-intensive, needs constant fire supervision and is only permissible where fires and collecting material are allowed.
The roof of dry material burns very easily. Keep enough distance between fire and shelter, watch for flying sparks, never leave the fire unattended and keep extinguishing material ready.
No fire in drought, wind or under a wildfire warning. Fire bans and local rules take precedence.
Smoke can collect under the roof. If you get a headache, dizziness or nausea, move into fresh air.
Do not pitch under dead trees or broken or hanging branches – they can fall without warning in wind or under snow or ice load. Look up before you pitch.
Materials
Sturdy sticks / poles – Ridgepole, roof poles, wood for the reflector
Dry leaves, grass or conifer boughs – To cover the roof
Dry firewood – Enough for the whole night, collected before dark
Lighter, matches or ferro rod
Water for extinguishing (bucket, canister or pot) – Have water or soil ready for extinguishing
Plastic sheet / large bin bag(optional)
Steps
1
Check permission and risk
Only build where fires and collecting are permitted. Do without a fire in drought or wind.
2
Build the frame
Lay a sturdy ridgepole between two trees or forked supports and lean roof poles back at an angle to the ground, back to the wind.
3
Thatch densely
Cover from bottom to top like roof tiles with branches or leaves so rain runs off. Use deadwood and loose material.
4
Make the fire site
Make the fire site at a distance in front of the shelter on bare mineral soil and clear the surroundings of combustible material.
5
Build the reflector
Build a wall of stacked logs or rocks behind the fire to throw heat back towards the shelter.
6
Fire watch and extinguishing
Keep the fire small and supervise it constantly. Anyone going to sleep must first extinguish it completely or arrange a watch.
Embers can smoulder for a long time – extinguish completely.
Common mistakes
×Fire too close to the roof
×Fire too large
×Too little firewood for the night
×Damaging living trees
×Leaving the fire unattended when falling asleep
Limits and risks
–No distance figures – depends on fire size, wind and material
–Legal situation varies greatly by region
Sources
[1]
Headquarters, Department of the Army (USA) (2002): FM 3-05.70 Survival
[2]
USDA Forest Service / Ad Council / National Association of State Foresters: Campfire Safety (Smokey Bear wildfire prevention campaign)
https://smokeybear.com
[3]
Leave No Trace Center for Outdoor Ethics: The Seven Principles of Leave No Trace (Principle 5: Minimize Campfire Impacts)
A ridged roof of a ridgepole, bipods or forked sticks and poles leaned against it, covered with branches, bark from deadwood or leaves. Larger than the narrow debris hut and meant for one or two people, it mainly protects from rain and wind – it only keeps you warm with good ground insulation and a sleeping bag.
The ridgepole and supports must safely carry the weight of the covering. Do not use rotten poles; check stability before lying inside.
Do not pitch under dead trees or broken or hanging branches – they can fall without warning in wind or under snow or ice load. Look up before you pitch.
Use a saw or hatchet only with safe technique; many injuries while building shelters are caused by tools.
Wild camping, bivouacking, collecting material and fires are regulated very differently from region to region. Check local rules, do not damage living trees and leave the site without a trace.
Materials
Sturdy sticks / poles – Ridgepole, supports and many roof poles from deadwood
Dry leaves, grass or conifer boughs – For covering and as a floor layer
Thin twine(optional) – To lash the supports
Plastic sheet / large bin bag(optional) – Under the covering for better rain protection
Steps
1
Choose the site
Level, dry spot, no hollow, no dead trees overhead, deadwood nearby.
2
Erect the supports
At each end set up a bipod of two crossed poles tied at the top – or use forked branches or a sturdy stump.
3
Place the ridgepole
Lay a sturdy ridgepole into the forks and secure it.
4
Lean on the rafters
Lean poles densely and steeply on both sides.
5
Thatch
Cover from bottom to top, overlapping, with branches, bark pieces from deadwood or leaves; if available, a sheet under the outer layer.
6
Insulate the floor
A thick layer of dry material or a sleeping pad as the sleeping surface.
Common mistakes
×Roof too shallow – it drips through
×Material not overlapped
×Built too large
×Stripping branches from living trees
×Not dismantling after practice
Limits and risks
–No figures for roof pitch or layer thickness
–Without a sheet, only partly waterproof in prolonged rain
Sources
[1]
Headquarters, Department of the Army (USA) (2002): FM 3-05.70 Survival
[2]
Leave No Trace Center for Outdoor Ethics: The Seven Principles of Leave No Trace (Principle 5: Minimize Campfire Impacts)
Several poles are leaned against each other in a cone and tied at the top; the frame is covered with a sheet, bark from deadwood, branches or leaves. The form is stable, needs no tree as an anchor and offers sitting height – but takes a lot of material and time.
The apex must be tied firmly and the poles evenly spaced; a collapsing frame can cause injury. Check stability before covering.
No open fire and no stove in improvised cone shelters: fire and carbon monoxide danger. Traditional tipis with smoke flaps require experience and are different from an emergency build.
Do not pitch under dead trees or broken or hanging branches – they can fall without warning in wind or under snow or ice load. Look up before you pitch.
Wild camping, bivouacking, collecting material and fires are regulated very differently from region to region. Check local rules, do not damage living trees and leave the site without a trace.
Materials
Sturdy sticks / poles – Three strong main poles and many more poles
Paracord – To lash the apex
Tarp(optional) – Fastest covering
Dry leaves, grass or conifer boughs(optional)
Steps
1
Set up the tripod
Tie three main poles together at the top, stand them up and spread the feet evenly.
2
Lean on more poles
Lean more poles into the crotch at the apex; leave an entrance on the downwind side.
3
Cover
Wrap with a tarp or cover from bottom to top like roof tiles with natural material.
4
Leave ventilation open
Do not fully close the apex and entrance, to reduce condensation.
5
Insulate the floor
Lay out a sleeping pad or a thick dry layer.
Common mistakes
×Apex only loosely leaned together
×Poles unevenly spaced
×Entrance facing the wind
×Fire inside
Limits and risks
–No figures for pole length or angle
–Not intended for a fire inside
Sources
[1]
Headquarters, Department of the Army (USA) (2002): FM 3-05.70 Survival
[2]
Leave No Trace Center for Outdoor Ethics: The Seven Principles of Leave No Trace (Principle 5: Minimize Campfire Impacts)
A body-length, narrow trench in the snow, covered with a tarp, sheet, skis with a sheet or snow blocks. Of the snow shelters it is usually the quickest and least prone to collapse, and so often preferable to a cave in emergencies – but only in flat terrain without avalanche danger.
Avalanche terrain is not covered by this entry. Never build on or below slopes, under cornices or in gullies. Anyone travelling in steep snowy terrain needs avalanche training and the current avalanche forecast.
Stoves, candles and burners in a snow shelter can produce lethal amounts of carbon monoxide and use up oxygen. An open ventilation hole is mandatory; run stoves outdoors as a rule.
Digging in snow makes you wet and sweaty. Soaked clothing can trigger hypothermia. Take off insulating layers first, work slowly and call the local emergency number (112 in the EU) at signs of hypothermia.
Fresh snow and drifting load a sheet roof. Knock it off regularly at night and keep the vent clear.
Mark the trench and its surroundings clearly so that nobody steps or drives onto it and rescuers can find it.
Materials
Snow shovel – Practically indispensable
Tarp – Or a sheet, emergency blanket or snow blocks as the roof
Sleeping pad – Insulation against the snow floor
Trekking poles(optional) – Or skis as roof supports
Dry spare clothing
Steps
1
Weigh up
Check alternatives such as turning back, a hut, a vehicle or an emergency bivouac in the lee. Dig only with a shovel, time and dry clothing.
2
Choose a safe spot
Flat terrain with no slopes, cornices or gullies above; away from ski runs, trails and vehicle tracks.
3
Shed layers
Stow insulating clothing dry, keep the waterproof outer layer on, work slowly.
4
Dig the trench
Dig a narrow trench, a little longer than your body. Keep it narrow – the wider it is, the harder it is to cover.
5
Cover
Lay a sheet over the trench and weigh down the edges with snow, using poles or skis as supports; alternatively lean snow blocks against each other in a gable.
6
Vent and entrance
Keep a ventilation opening clear and do not seal the entrance completely.
No stove or candle in the trench.
7
Insulate and mark
Lie on a sleeping pad or backpack, take the shovel inside, mark the location outside.
Common mistakes
×Trench too wide
×Sheet without supports – it sags under snow load
×Forgetting ventilation
×Leaving the shovel outside
×Building on a slope
Limits and risks
–No figures for depth or wall thickness
–No statements about avalanche danger
Sources
[1]
Headquarters, Department of the Army (USA) (2002): FM 3-05.70 Survival
[2]
The Mountaineers Books (2017): Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills, 9th edition
[3]
World Health Organization, Regional Office for Europe (2010): WHO guidelines for indoor air quality: selected pollutants (carbon monoxide chapter)
[4]
Wilderness & Environmental Medicine (Wilderness Medical Society) (2019): Wilderness Medical Society Clinical Practice Guidelines for the Out-of-Hospital Evaluation and Treatment of Accidental Hypothermia: 2019 Update
A large pile of shovelled snow is left to settle and then hollowed out. It works even with little snow depth but costs a lot of time and energy and carries collapse, suffocation and carbon monoxide risks. Only with two or more people, with practice and never in avalanche terrain.
Never build or hollow out alone. One person digs while the other stays outside and can help immediately if it collapses. Always keep a shovel at hand, inside as well.
Walls or roofs that are too thin, and thaw conditions, lead to collapse. Use thickness markers, stop digging when you reach a marker and do not sleep inside in thaw or rain.
Stoves, candles and burners in a snow shelter can produce lethal amounts of carbon monoxide and use up oxygen. An open ventilation hole is mandatory; run stoves outdoors as a rule.
Digging in snow makes you wet and sweaty. Soaked clothing can trigger hypothermia. Take off insulating layers first, work slowly and call the local emergency number (112 in the EU) at signs of hypothermia.
Avalanche terrain is not covered by this entry. Never build on or below slopes, under cornices or in gullies. Anyone travelling in steep snowy terrain needs avalanche training and the current avalanche forecast.
Materials
Snow shovel – At least one, preferably two
Sturdy sticks / poles – Sticks of equal length as thickness markers
Sleeping pad
Dry spare clothing
Headlamp / flashlight(optional)
Steps
1
Choose a safe spot
Flat terrain with no slopes above, no snow-laden trees directly overhead.
2
Pile up snow
Shovel snow into a large, round mound, mixing it as you go. Shed layers to avoid sweating.
3
Insert thickness markers
Push sticks of equal length vertically into the mound all round until they are flush with the surface.
4
Let it settle
Let the mound rest for a while. The time needed depends on snow and temperature; stay warm and dry during this time.
5
Hollow out – in pairs
Dig a low entrance and hollow out from inside. As soon as a stick end becomes visible, stop digging there. The second person stays outside.
Get out immediately if there are cracks, sagging or dripping.
6
Vent and platform
Push a ventilation hole at an angle through the roof, make the sleeping platform higher than the entrance and smooth the inner ceiling so drips run off.
7
Night and marking
Keep the shovel inside, clear the vent regularly, do not fully close the entrance, mark the location outside.
Common mistakes
×Digging alone
×Not letting it settle long enough
×Digging without thickness markers – roof too thin
×No ventilation hole
×Stove or candle inside
×Sweating through clothing
Limits and risks
–No wall thickness or waiting times given – strongly snow-dependent
–No statements about avalanche danger
Sources
[1]
The Mountaineers Books (2017): Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills, 9th edition
[2]
World Health Organization, Regional Office for Europe (2010): WHO guidelines for indoor air quality: selected pollutants (carbon monoxide chapter)
[3]
Wilderness & Environmental Medicine (Wilderness Medical Society) (2019): Wilderness Medical Society Clinical Practice Guidelines for the Out-of-Hospital Evaluation and Treatment of Accidental Hypothermia: 2019 Update
A cave dug into a deep, consolidated snowdrift insulates best of all snow shelters. But it needs very deep snow, a shovel, practice and a lot of time – and drifts often lie exactly where there is avalanche and cornice danger. In emergencies a snow trench is usually the safer choice.
Drifts often form on lee slopes – exactly where wind slab and avalanche danger develop. Without avalanche training, do not dig a snow cave into a slope; when in doubt, choose a trench in flat terrain.
Never dig alone. One person stays outside, and the shovel is always at hand, including inside at night.
Stoves, candles and burners in a snow shelter can produce lethal amounts of carbon monoxide and use up oxygen. An open ventilation hole is mandatory; run stoves outdoors as a rule.
Digging in snow makes you wet and sweaty. Soaked clothing can trigger hypothermia. Take off insulating layers first, work slowly and call the local emergency number (112 in the EU) at signs of hypothermia.
Materials
Snow shovel
Sleeping pad
Sturdy sticks / poles – Ventilation stick and marker
Dry spare clothing
Headlamp / flashlight(optional)
Steps
1
Assess the terrain
Only with training and an avalanche forecast. No digging under cornices, in gullies or on steep lee slopes. If in doubt: a snow trench in flat terrain.
2
Dig entrance and room
Dig an entrance tunnel, then enlarge the room upwards so that the sleeping platform is higher than the entrance. Work slowly, shed layers.
3
Dome and smooth the ceiling
Shape the ceiling domed and smooth so meltwater runs down the walls instead of dripping.
4
Make the vent
Push a ventilation hole through the roof and keep it clear regularly with a stick.
No stove or candle in the enclosed space.
5
Gear and marking
Shovel inside, entrance not fully closed, location clearly marked outside.
Common mistakes
×Digging in avalanche or cornice terrain
×Ceiling too flat or too thin
×Vent drifted shut
×Digging alone
×Sleeping platform lower than the entrance
Limits and risks
–No building instructions with dimensions
–No assessment of avalanche terrain
Sources
[1]
The Mountaineers Books (2017): Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills, 9th edition
[2]
Headquarters, Department of the Army (USA) (2002): FM 3-05.70 Survival
[3]
European Avalanche Warning Services (EAWS): European Avalanche Danger Scale
[4]
World Health Organization, Regional Office for Europe (2010): WHO guidelines for indoor air quality: selected pollutants (carbon monoxide chapter)
If you get stuck in snow, you are usually better protected in the vehicle than outside on foot, and you are easier to find there. It is vital to keep the exhaust pipe clear of snow and to run the engine only intermittently, because carbon monoxide can otherwise enter the cabin.
Keep the exhaust pipe clear of snow regularly. A snowed-in exhaust can direct carbon monoxide into the cabin – odourless and deadly. Run the engine only intermittently and open a window slightly while it runs.
Stay with the vehicle unless help is safely visible very close by. On foot in a blizzard you quickly lose orientation and get cold.
Call the local emergency number (112 in the EU), give your location and save battery.
Watch for traffic when getting out, wear a hi-vis vest and secure the vehicle as far as it is safe to do so.
Materials
Vehicle emergency kit
Wool blanket / duvet – Or a sleeping bag
Emergency blanket
Snow shovel(optional) – To keep the exhaust clear
High-visibility vest(optional)
Mobile phone
Steps
1
Emergency call and location
Call emergency services, give the location, then use the phone sparingly.
2
Make yourself visible
Hazard lights if needed, a bright cloth on the antenna or window; at night switch on the interior light from time to time while the engine is running.
3
Keep the exhaust clear
Check that the exhaust is clear before every engine start and regularly.
4
Engine intermittently
Run the engine and heater only for short periods, with a window slightly open. Official guides mention about ten minutes per hour.
5
Keep warm
Put on all clothing layers, use blankets and emergency blankets, huddle together, insulate feet from the cold floor, move a little, drink enough.
6
Take turns staying awake
In groups take turns staying awake, especially while the engine is running.
Common mistakes
×Not checking the exhaust
×Running the engine continuously and falling asleep
×Leaving the vehicle on foot in a blizzard
×Setting off without winter equipment
Limits and risks
–No fuel or battery ranges
–No advice for heat – vehicles in the sun are dangerous
Sources
[1]
Ready.gov – U.S. Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA): Winter Weather
[2]
Centers for Disease Control and Prevention: Carbon Monoxide Poisoning – Prevention guidance
[3]
Wilderness & Environmental Medicine (Wilderness Medical Society) (2019): Wilderness Medical Society Clinical Practice Guidelines for the Out-of-Hospital Evaluation and Treatment of Accidental Hypothermia: 2019 Update
Anyone in a city left without a warm place to stay by an emergency – for example after building damage, during a power outage or while travelling – should first look for official emergency shelters and warming centres. To bridge the gap, cardboard and newspaper help as ground insulation, buildings break the wind and dry layers keep you warm. Damaged buildings and unsafe places are off-limits.
After earthquakes, explosions, fires or floods do not enter damaged buildings. Follow cordons and instructions from emergency services.
Do not use barbecues, gas stoves, generators or open fires in rooms, tents, garages or passageways for heating – carbon monoxide and fire danger. Cardboard and newspaper are highly flammable.
At shivering, confusion or apathy, call the local emergency number (112 in the EU). Older people, children and the sick are especially at risk.
Respect private property and house rules; follow local rules and guidance from the authorities.
Materials
Newspaper and cardboard – As ground insulation and wind protection
Plastic sheet / large bin bag(optional) – Against wet, never over the head
Emergency blanket(optional)
Wool blanket / duvet(optional)
Mobile phone
Steps
1
Look for official help
Ask via radio, warning app, authorities, emergency services or aid organisations about emergency shelters, warming centres or assembly points.
2
Public warm places
To bridge the gap, use stations, shopping centres, libraries or other open public buildings as far as they are accessible and permitted.
3
Insulate from the ground
Put several layers of cardboard or newspaper under your body; never sit directly on concrete or stone.
4
Keep out wind and wet
Choose the sheltered side of buildings, cardboard as a windbreak, sheeting against rain – keep the face uncovered.
5
Layers and group
Put on dry layers, cover head and hands, stay with others and look after the more vulnerable.
Common mistakes
×Not looking for official emergency shelters
×Sitting directly on cold ground
×Seeking shelter in damaged buildings
×Heating indoors with a barbecue or gas stove
×Staying alone
Limits and risks
–No information on specific emergency shelters – varies by region
–No legal advice
Sources
[1]
Bundesamt für Bevölkerungsschutz und Katastrophenhilfe (BBK), Deutschland: Ratgeber für Notfallvorsorge und richtiges Handeln in Notsituationen
https://www.bbk.bund.de
[2]
Ready.gov – U.S. Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA): Power Outages
[3]
Centers for Disease Control and Prevention: Carbon Monoxide Poisoning – Prevention guidance
A group or emergency shelter ("bothy bag") is a light cover without poles that several people pull over their heads and bodies and then sit on. In minutes it creates a windproof space in which body heat warms the air. It is for waiting and caring for someone, not a tent for the night.
The bag is usually airtight: ventilate regularly, keep one opening free, open it immediately in case of headache or shortness of breath. Never run stoves or candles inside.
Strong shivering, confusion, clumsiness or unusual drowsiness can be signs of hypothermia. Do not wait: call the local emergency number (112 in the EU) and protect the person from further heat loss.
Sitting on cold ground chills you – put backpacks, pads or ropes underneath.
Materials
Group shelter bag
Sleeping pad(optional) – Or backpacks as seating
Dry spare clothing
Steps
1
Decide early
Use the group shelter before everyone is cold – not only when someone can no longer continue.
2
Choose a spot
As sheltered from the wind as possible, safe from rockfall and falls, on level ground.
3
Pull it over
Everyone stands close together, pulls the cover over their heads and sits down on backpacks or pads with the edge tucked under them.
4
Vent opening
Keep a vent or window open; air it briefly at regular intervals.
5
Vulnerable people in the middle
Put people who are cold-sensitive, injured or exhausted in the middle, insulate them and give them food and warm drinks if available.
6
Help and visibility
In an emergency, call for help. A brightly coloured bag is easy to see from outside.
Common mistakes
×Used too late
×Sitting directly on snow or rock
×No ventilation
×Bag too small for the group
Limits and risks
–No figures for the temperature gain inside
–No substitute for a tent or hut overnight
Sources
[1]
Wilderness & Environmental Medicine (Wilderness Medical Society) (2019): Wilderness Medical Society Clinical Practice Guidelines for the Out-of-Hospital Evaluation and Treatment of Accidental Hypothermia: 2019 Update
[2]
The Mountaineers Books (2017): Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills, 9th edition
If you must wait unexpectedly while out – in fog, after dark or until help arrives – a sitting bivouac can protect quickly: sit on the backpack or pad, back against a rock or tree out of the wind, all clothing on, hood up, legs in the empty backpack. This keeps the contact area with the ground small.
Strong shivering, confusion, clumsiness or unusual drowsiness can be signs of hypothermia. Do not wait: call the local emergency number (112 in the EU) and protect the person from further heat loss.
Never pull plastic sheeting, bin bags or emergency blankets over the head or face, and do not let children use them unsupervised – risk of suffocation.
Lean only against stable rock with no rockfall from above; not under dead trees.
Materials
Backpack
Rain and wind shell
Dry spare clothing
Emergency blanket(optional)
Heavy-duty bin bag (large)(optional) – Over legs and backpack, never over the head
Headlamp / flashlight
Steps
1
Stop in time
When carrying on becomes dangerous, stop deliberately, note your position and call for help if needed.
2
Find shelter from the wind
A boulder, tree trunk, hollow without running water or bushes on the lee side.
3
Put everything on
Dry layers under the rain gear, hat, gloves, hood up.
4
Sit insulated
Sit on a pad, rope or rolled clothing; empty the backpack and put your legs inside.
5
Add a cover
Wrap an emergency blanket or bin bag around body and legs, keeping the face free.
6
Wait actively
Eat something, tense muscles from time to time, keep the lamp ready, listen out for signals regularly.
Common mistakes
×Sitting directly on rock or snow
×Stopping too late and soaked with sweat
×Head unprotected
×Pulling a bin bag over the face
Limits and risks
–An emergency solution for hours, not days
–No statement about survivable temperatures
Sources
[1]
Wilderness & Environmental Medicine (Wilderness Medical Society) (2019): Wilderness Medical Society Clinical Practice Guidelines for the Out-of-Hospital Evaluation and Treatment of Accidental Hypothermia: 2019 Update
[2]
The Mountaineers Books (2017): Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills, 9th edition
A tube tent is a plastic tube with a line threaded through it and tied between two trees. Body weight holds the floor down, creating a simple triangular tent with open ends. It is cheap and light but prone to condensation and sensitive to wind – an emergency solution.
Never pull plastic sheeting, bin bags or emergency blankets over the head or face, and do not let children use them unsupervised – risk of suffocation.
No stove, candle or fire under a tarp or sheet or inside a tent: synthetic material melts and burns, and carbon monoxide can collect in enclosed spaces.
Do not pitch under dead trees or broken or hanging branches – they can fall without warning in wind or under snow or ice load. Look up before you pitch.
Materials
Plastic sheet / large bin bag – Made as a tube or improvised from a long sheet
Paracord
Sleeping pad
Steps
1
Choose a spot
A level spot with the tube across the wind or one end into it, no hollow, no dead branches.
2
Thread the line
Thread the line through the tube and tie it tightly to both trees at about hip to chest height.
3
Weigh the floor down
Put the pad and gear in the corners so the floor lies flat and the wind cannot get under the sheet.
4
Leave the ends open
Leave both ends at least partly open so moisture can escape.
Common mistakes
×Ends fully closed – wet inside
×Pitched in a hollow – water runs in
×Line too low – sheet lies on the face
Limits and risks
–No figures for sheet thickness
–Intended only for short emergencies
Sources
[1]
Headquarters, Department of the Army (USA) (2002): FM 3-05.70 Survival
[2]
Wilderness & Environmental Medicine (Wilderness Medical Society) (2019): Wilderness Medical Society Clinical Practice Guidelines for the Out-of-Hospital Evaluation and Treatment of Accidental Hypothermia: 2019 Update
Using public emergency shelters, warming and cooling centres
During evacuations, heatwaves, cold spells or long power cuts, authorities and aid organisations often set up emergency shelters, warming centres or cooling rooms. Where and when is announced via official warning channels, radio and the local council. Anyone going there brings medication, documents, bedding and basics and follows the instructions on site.
Follow only information from official sources; rumours on social media can be wrong. Observe instructions on evacuation routes and closures.
In acute danger, breathing difficulty, confusion from cold or heat, or suspected carbon monoxide, call the local emergency number (112 in the EU).
Whether pets are allowed differs from place to place – check with the local council or in the announcements beforehand.
Materials
Medication supply – For several days
Document folder (waterproof)
Sleeping bag(optional)
Battery or crank radio(optional)
Pet emergency supplies(optional)
Steps
1
Get information
Follow warning apps, radio, the council website or notices: where are emergency shelters, warming or cooling centres, and at what times?
2
Decide in time
When ordered to evacuate, leave at once. In cold or heat, do not wait until the home becomes dangerous – especially with children, older or ill people.
3
Pack a bag
Medication, documents, charger, glasses, toiletries, change of clothes, blanket or sleeping bag, snacks, and baby and pet supplies if needed.
4
Secure the home
As instructed, switch off appliances, close windows and doors and tell relatives where you are going.
5
Register on site
Register on arrival so that relatives and authorities can find you; mention special needs (medication, disability).
6
Take others along
Talk to neighbours who live alone or have limited mobility and offer help.
Common mistakes
×Staying too long in a cold or overheated home
×Forgetting medication
×Following rumours instead of official information
×Telling no one
Limits and risks
–Availability depends on place and situation – check local information
–No legal statements on evacuation obligations
Sources
[1]
Bundesamt für Bevölkerungsschutz und Katastrophenhilfe (BBK), Deutschland: Ratgeber für Notfallvorsorge und richtiges Handeln in Notsituationen
https://www.bbk.bund.de
[2]
U.S. Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA): Are You Ready? An In-Depth Guide to Citizen Preparedness
The ground constantly draws heat from a body lying on it by conduction. An insulating layer of sleeping pad, dry vegetation or gear interrupts this heat flow and is as important as a roof on any night out.
When gathering plant material, respect protected-area rules and use only loose, dry material such as leaves or needle litter.
On snow and frozen ground a thin pad is often not enough. Combine several layers and never sit or lie directly on snow.
Materials
Sleeping pad
Dry leaves, grass or conifer boughs(optional) – Effective only when dry and thickly layered
Backpack(optional) – Place under torso or legs
Steps
1
Pad as the base
If available, always use a sleeping pad. In cold conditions put a foam pad under an inflatable pad – this also protects you if the inflatable fails.
2
Add gear
Put an empty backpack, rope or clothing you are not wearing under the torso and legs. The torso comes first.
3
Gather natural material
Without a pad, gather dry leaves, needle litter or grass – far more than seems necessary at first, because the layer compresses heavily under the body.
4
Block moisture
On wet ground, put a sheet or tarp under the insulating layer to keep it dry.
5
Test and improve
Lie down to test: where cold comes through, especially at hips and shoulders, add more material.
Common mistakes
×Relying on the sleeping bag as ground insulation
×Too thin a layer of natural material
×Using damp leaves
×Insulating the upper body but not the hips
Limits and risks
–Natural material is barely effective when wet
–Does not replace wind and wet protection
Sources
[1]
Wilderness & Environmental Medicine (Wilderness Medical Society) (2019): Wilderness Medical Society Clinical Practice Guidelines for the Out-of-Hospital Evaluation and Treatment of Accidental Hypothermia: 2019 Update
[2]
Headquarters, Department of the Army (USA) (2002): FM 3-05.70 Survival
Breath and body release a lot of moisture overnight, which condenses on the cold inner surfaces of a tarp, tent or bivvy bag. Ventilation removes the moist air before it condenses and so keeps sleeping bag and clothing drier.
Never seal a shelter airtight to keep warm, and never run a stove, grill or fire inside it – risk of carbon monoxide poisoning and suffocation.
Over several nights, condensation gradually dampens sleeping-bag insulation and reduces its warmth.
Materials
Tarp(optional)
Sturdy sticks / poles(optional) – To prop vents open
Steps
1
Mind the site
Avoid hollows, waterside spots and dense, still places where moist cold air collects overnight. A light breeze helps.
2
Open low and high
Open the tent's vents, or with a tarp leave a gap between edge and ground and keep the ends open.
3
Keep wet things outside
Avoid drying wet clothing and gear inside, and do not cook inside.
4
Do not breathe into the bag
Keep mouth and nose outside the sleeping bag so breath moisture does not get into the insulation.
5
Wipe and dry in the morning
Wipe off condensation in the morning and dry sleeping bag and shelter in sun or wind when possible.
Moist air condenses on the cold inner surface – openings low and high carry it away
Common mistakes
×Closing all openings to keep warmer
×Mistaking condensation for a leak
×Cooking inside
×Hanging wet clothes inside the tent
Limits and risks
–Condensation can usually only be reduced, not prevented
Sources
[1]
Headquarters, Department of the Army (USA) (2002): FM 3-05.70 Survival
Stoves, grills, generators, charcoal and fires produce carbon monoxide (CO) – a gas you cannot see, smell or taste. In tents, shelters and enclosed spaces it can build up unnoticed to lethal concentrations. Never operate these devices in such spaces.
Never operate a stove, grill, generator, charcoal or fire inside a tent, vestibule, snow cave, shelter, vehicle or any other enclosed space – not even briefly, for warmth, or with the door open.
Cooling charcoal and embers continue to release CO. Never bring a grill or embers into a tent or room for warmth.
Headache, dizziness, nausea, weakness, confusion or drowsiness – especially if several people are affected – may indicate CO: get to fresh air immediately and call emergency services.
Materials
Stove – Operate outdoors only
Steps
1
Operate outdoors only
Run stoves, grills, generators and fires only outdoors and at a distance from tents, shelters, windows and vents.
2
Get warmth another way
Fight cold not with combustion inside, but with clothing, sleeping bag, ground insulation and warm drinks prepared outside.
3
Take warning signs seriously
Consider CO when headache, dizziness, nausea or unusual drowsiness occur near a combustion source.
4
Fresh air and emergency call
Get to fresh air immediately, bring others with you without exposing yourself longer than necessary, and call emergency services.
Never burn anything in the tent – stove outdoors only, warmth from insulation
Common mistakes
×Believing an open door or a vent makes operating inside a tent safe
×Bringing a cooling grill into the tent for warmth
×Mistaking symptoms for fatigue, altitude effects or a cold
×Relying on smell
Limits and risks
–Contains no treatment instructions
–No exposure limits or times – these belong in the specialist literature
Sources
[1]
World Health Organization, Regional Office for Europe (2010): WHO guidelines for indoor air quality: selected pollutants (carbon monoxide chapter)
[2]
Bundesamt für Bevölkerungsschutz und Katastrophenhilfe (BBK), Deutschland: Ratgeber für Notfallvorsorge und richtiges Handeln in Notsituationen
Staying warm overnight: layers, dry clothing, sleep system
Whether a night outdoors is bearable rarely depends on a single piece of gear but on the interplay of ground insulation, sleeping bag, dry clothing, headwear and starting the night warm. Going to bed dry and insulated from the ground makes for a much warmer night.
Intense, persistent shivering, confusion, slurred speech or drowsiness are warning signs of hypothermia. Do not wait: seek shelter, wake others and call emergency services if the condition worsens.
Do not run stoves, grills, charcoal or gas heaters inside a tent or shelter for warmth – risk of carbon monoxide and fire.
If you use a bottle of hot water as a hot-water bottle: only tightly sealing, suitable bottles, wrapped in fabric, never directly on the skin – risk of scalds and burns, especially for children and people with reduced sensation.
Materials
Sleeping pad – More important than often assumed
Dry spare clothing – Dry sleeping clothes, socks, hat
Double-wall insulated bottle(optional) – For a warm drink
Emergency blanket(optional)
Backpack(optional) – As extra insulation under the legs
Steps
1
Ground first
Lay the sleeping pad on level, dry ground. In cold conditions add extra insulation under hips and shoulders, such as a backpack or second pad.
2
Change into dry clothing
Swap damp or sweaty clothing for dry sleeping clothes and dry socks before sleeping. Put on a hat.
3
Go to bed warm
Before getting in, eat and drink something, a warm drink if available, and warm up with light movement without sweating. Empty your bladder before sleeping.
4
Use layers sensibly
Dry insulating clothing can be worn inside the sleeping bag. Do not wear so much that the bag becomes tight and its fill is compressed. Wet jackets stay outside.
5
Do not breathe into the bag
Draw the hood closed but keep mouth and nose outside – moisture from breath dampens the insulation. Keep the shelter slightly ventilated.
6
Adjust during the night
If it gets cold, add a layer or briefly tense your muscles. If you sweat, remove a layer. In a group, keep an eye on each other.
7
Dry in the morning
Air and dry the sleeping bag when possible so it insulates fully again the next night.
Common mistakes
×A thick sleeping bag but a thin pad or none
×Sleeping in sweaty daytime clothing
×Getting into the bag already chilled
×Burying the head in the bag and breathing into it
×Stuffing the bag with too much clothing
×Running a stove in the tent for warmth
Limits and risks
–No substitute for adequate gear
–No temperature figures – too dependent on person and gear
–Not treatment for hypothermia
Sources
[1]
Wilderness & Environmental Medicine (Wilderness Medical Society) (2019): Wilderness Medical Society Clinical Practice Guidelines for the Out-of-Hospital Evaluation and Treatment of Accidental Hypothermia: 2019 Update
[2]
Headquarters, Department of the Army (USA) (2002): FM 3-05.70 Survival
[3]
World Health Organization, Regional Office for Europe (2010): WHO guidelines for indoor air quality: selected pollutants (carbon monoxide chapter)
In heat, a shelter mainly protects from direct sun and hot ground. Shade with airflow, distance from heated ground and rest at midday reduce heat stress and water loss. A closed, dark tent in the sun, by contrast, can become dangerously hot.
Confusion, collapse, seizures or hot skin under severe heat stress can indicate heatstroke – a life-threatening emergency. Call the emergency number immediately.
Closed tents and vehicles heat up strongly in the sun. Never leave children, vulnerable people or animals inside.
Dry riverbeds and hollows can flood suddenly during thunderstorms – even distant ones. Do not set up a shade or sleeping spot there.
Materials
Tarp – Ideally light-coloured or reflective side up
Paracord – For guying out
Trekking poles(optional)
Sturdy sticks / poles(optional)
Emergency blanket(optional) – As an additional reflective layer
Sleeping pad(optional) – As a mat against hot ground
Steps
1
Act early
Set up shade before the midday heat sets in. Rest during the hottest part of the day and shift exertion to the cooler hours.
2
Choose a spot
Use natural shade if available. Otherwise choose a spot with some air movement, away from hollows and dry riverbeds.
3
Rig a sunshade
Rig the tarp or cloth high and angled so it casts shade on the resting spot and air can flow underneath. Leave the sides open.
4
Double layer if possible
With a second cloth or emergency blanket, rig a second layer with an air gap above or below.
5
Keep off the hot ground
Do not lie directly on hot sand or rock. Put a sleeping pad, backpack or clothing underneath; deeper, shaded ground is cooler than the surface.
6
Protect the body
Wear a hat and covering, airy clothing. Drink water regularly and watch for warning signs in yourself and others.
7
Follow the shade
Shade moves with the sun. Adjust the orientation or resting spot during the day.
Common mistakes
×Rigging the tarp flat and low over the body so heat builds up
×Resting in a closed tent in the sun
×Lying directly on hot sand or rock
×Seeking shade in dry riverbeds
×Setting up shade only once severely exhausted
×Removing clothing and so risking more sun and water loss
Limits and risks
–No temperature figures for the shade effect
–Not treatment for heat illness
–No substitute for enough water
Sources
[1]
Headquarters, Department of the Army (USA) (2002): FM 3-05.70 Survival
On snow the ground draws heat from the body all night. What matters is two pads or a pad rated for winter conditions, dry clothing, boot liners and water bottle protected from frost, and a sleep system you have tested beforehand.
Strong shivering, confusion, clumsiness or unusual drowsiness can be signs of hypothermia. Do not wait: call the local emergency number (112 in the EU) and protect the person from further heat loss.
An inflatable pad can lose air during the night; a foam pad underneath keeps insulating even then. A repair kit belongs with it.
Never run stoves, heaters, grills or candles inside a tent, vestibule or closed shelter – carbon monoxide is invisible, odourless and can be lethal.
Materials
Sleeping pad – Ideally a closed-cell foam pad under an inflatable one
Sleeping bag
Dry spare clothing
Backpack(optional) – Under the feet as extra insulation
Steps
1
Smooth the base
Stamp and smooth the lying area so that no hollows or ridges form.
2
Stack pads
Foam pad below, inflatable pad on top. Put the backpack or rope under the feet if the pads are short.
3
Dry sleep clothing
Change into dry clothing before sleeping, put on a hat; do not wear damp socks in the sleeping bag.
4
Protect items from frost
Take boot liners, batteries and a bottle of water into the sleeping bag or the foot area so they do not freeze.
5
Go to bed warm
Eat and move briefly before lying down, without breaking a sweat.
6
Adjust during the night
Anyone who is cold adds extra clothing under or over themselves and checks whether the pad still holds air.
Common mistakes
×Only one thin pad
×Damp clothing in the sleeping bag
×Water bottle left outside – frozen by morning
×Breathing into the sleeping bag
×Getting to know the pad only on the trip
Limits and risks
–No recommendation of specific R-values for specific temperatures
–No substitute for experience in winter bivouacs
Sources
[1]
The Mountaineers Books (2017): Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills, 9th edition
[2]
Wilderness & Environmental Medicine (Wilderness Medical Society) (2019): Wilderness Medical Society Clinical Practice Guidelines for the Out-of-Hospital Evaluation and Treatment of Accidental Hypothermia: 2019 Update
Over several days of rain, routine decides whether sleeping bag and sleep clothing stay dry. Basic rule: consistently separate wet gear (vestibule, outside) from the dry sleep system (inside, packed), keep one set of clothing only for the night, and use dry bags for everything that must stay dry.
Strong shivering, confusion, clumsiness or unusual drowsiness can be signs of hypothermia. Do not wait: call the local emergency number (112 in the EU) and protect the person from further heat loss.
Never run stoves, heaters, grills or candles inside a tent, vestibule or closed shelter – carbon monoxide is invisible, odourless and can be lethal.
In persistent rain streams rise quickly. Do not camp in gullies, hollows or close to streams, and heed flood warnings.
Materials
Dry bag – For sleeping bag and sleep clothing
Heavy-duty bin bag (large)(optional) – As a backpack liner
Rain and wind shell
Tarp(optional) – As an extra roof for cooking and packing outdoors
Steps
1
Pack waterproof inside
Put sleeping bag, sleep clothing and electronics in dry bags or a liner; the backpack itself is not waterproof.
2
Pitch quickly and thoughtfully
If possible, pitch the tarp or fly first, then unpack underneath.
3
Set up zones
The vestibule or tarp edge is the wet zone (boots, rain jacket, wet backpack). Inside is the dry zone.
4
Change clothes
Take off wet day clothes and put on sleep clothes. In the morning, back into the (damp) day clothes – the sleep clothes stay packed and dry.
5
Ventilate
Keep vents open and wipe off condensation with a cloth before it drips.
6
Use dry spells
Use breaks in the rain and wind to air out sleeping bag and clothing.
Common mistakes
×Taking wet clothing into the inner tent
×Wearing sleep clothes during the day
×Sleeping bag in the backpack without a dry bag
×Camping in a hollow
Limits and risks
–No statements about the waterproofness of specific products
–Does not replace retreating in severe weather
Sources
[1]
Wilderness & Environmental Medicine (Wilderness Medical Society) (2019): Wilderness Medical Society Clinical Practice Guidelines for the Out-of-Hospital Evaluation and Treatment of Accidental Hypothermia: 2019 Update
[2]
Headquarters, Department of the Army (USA) (2002): FM 3-05.70 Survival
Protection from mosquitoes: a net over the sleeping area
In areas with many mosquitoes or insect-borne diseases, a mosquito net over the sleeping area is important protection. It is hung from a line or a single point, tucked in without gaps under the pad or groundsheet, and must not touch the body because mosquitoes can bite through the net.
In areas with malaria, dengue or other insect-borne diseases, get travel-medicine advice before the trip. With fever after a stay there, seek medical help and mention the trip.
Nets are flammable: no candles, mosquito coils or stoves nearby.
Use insect repellents and treated nets only as directed by the manufacturer; take special note of the instructions for children and during pregnancy.
Materials
Mosquito net
Paracord – Hanging line
Tarp(optional) – Rain roof over the net
Steps
1
Check the net
Check for holes and close small tears with tape or needle and thread.
2
Hang it
Hang it from a line, the tarp ridge or a branch so it hangs well clear of the face.
3
Tuck in
Tuck the edges under the pad or groundsheet all round, or weigh them down – without gaps.
4
Get in quickly
Check for insects inside before getting in, slip in quickly and close it at once.
5
Keep distance
Make sure arms and feet do not touch the net during the night.
Common mistakes
×Net touches the skin
×Edges not tucked in
×Net hung only after dusk
×Holes ignored
Limits and risks
–No medical advice on prophylaxis or repellents
–No figures for mesh sizes
Sources
[1]
Centers for Disease Control and Prevention: CDC Yellow Book: Health Information for International Travel