Cow hitch (girth hitch, lark's head)
A bight around an object with both strands pulled through it – or a sling passed through itself. Very quick for attaching a loop or strap to a ring, branch or handle; it slips under uneven pull.
- a few seconds
Explained simply
The cow hitch is one of the simplest knots there is. You may have used it without knowing: when you thread a lanyard through a ring and then pull it through itself, that is a cow hitch. Other names are girth hitch and lark's head.
It holds well when both strands are pulled equally hard – like a swing hanging evenly from two ropes. But if only one strand is pulled, the rope can slip around the ring or branch. That is its big weakness.
In return it is tied in a flash and just as quickly undone. It is great for bags, tags or a line on a branch. For people and climbing: only after proper training with certified equipment.
How it works
A bight is laid around the object, and the two strands run through this bight. When you pull on both strands, the bight presses them against the object and nips them in place. The forces roughly balance each other, and nothing moves.
If the pull comes from one side only, this balance is lost. The loaded strand pulls on the bight, and the rope can creep around the object until the knot is loose or slips off. That is why the cow hitch is a knot for even loading – for example with a closed sling, where both strands always pull together.
How to recognise a correctly tied knot
From the front you see a bight lying across the object, with both strands coming out side by side beneath it. From the back, two sections of rope lie parallel around the object. The key difference from the clove hitch: in the cow hitch the two turns run in opposite directions, in the clove hitch in the same direction. Once you have laid the two side by side, you will hardly mix them up again.
To set it, pull evenly on both strands until the bight lies flat and snug against the object. With webbing and slings, the bight should lie neatly and without twists. If you tie it with the end instead of a bight, leave enough tail after the tuck so it does not slip out straight away.
Typical mistakes and how the knot fails
The most common mistake is loading it on one strand only. Then it slips, and the rope chafes against the object as it does. If you need a one-sided pull, there are variants: the end is additionally tucked through the bight or secured with a stopper knot. Their names vary – what matters is that the end can no longer slide through freely.
Another point: at the nip, the cow hitch bends webbing and slings quite sharply. With thin cord and tape, wear can occur there. Specific rules for slings in climbing are taught in courses and are not replaced by this page.
When it makes sense – and when not
The cow hitch is perfect for anything hanging from a closed loop: a luggage tag on a handle, a lanyard on an eyelet, a loop of accessory cord on a ring. You can also put a line on a branch quickly without needing the end – as long as both strands are loaded equally, for example when hanging something.
It is the wrong choice when a single rope end is under tension, such as a guyline. There a secured clove hitch, a round turn and two half hitches, or a bowline are more reliable. For securing people: life-safety use only after proper training with certified equipment.
How to practise it
Take a loop of cord and a pen or chair leg. Tie the cow hitch and pull on both strands – it holds. Then pull on one strand only and watch the rope start to creep. This little test shows you better than any explanation what the knot is made for.
Then tie a clove hitch next to it and compare the backs. Also practise the version tied with the end, because you cannot always get at a bight. If you know both forms, you can use it quickly anywhere.
Step by step
Bight around the object
Pass a bight around behind the object and bring it to the front.
Shown loosely laid out. Dress and tighten before loading.
- 1
Bight around the object
Pass a bight around behind the object and bring it to the front.
- 2
Strands through the bight
Pull both strands (or the whole sling) through the bight.
- 3
Snug it
Pull evenly on both strands until the bight sits snugly.
Common mistakes
- Confusing it with the clove hitch – in the cow hitch the two turns run in opposite directions
- Loading only one strand
Quick view
Materials
Rope
Never use unknown or damaged rope for life-safety purposes.
Paracord
Not a climbing or safety rope.
Webbing (tubular webbing)
Inspect knotted webbing before every use.
UV light and abrasion age webbing; do not load damaged webbing.
Suitable for
- Attaching a loop, strap or tag to a ring, handle or pack
- Hangings loaded evenly on both strands
- Putting a line on a branch quickly without needing the end
Not suitable for
- Pull on only one strand
- Life-safety applications without training
Prerequisites
- Bight
How it works
The bight wraps the object and both strands run through it, nipping it in place. With equal pull on both strands this holds well; if only one strand is loaded, the rope can slip around the object.
Advantages
- Very quick
- Can be tied without the end
- Easy to untie
Disadvantages
- Slips under one-sided pull
- Can bend straps and slings sharply at the nip
Deep knowledge
Background
The cow hitch goes by many names: girth hitch (climbing), lark's head, Ankerstich in German climbing. In climbing it is used to attach slings; there, separate rules taught in courses apply.
In everyday life it fixes lanyards, luggage tags or lines to rings.
Variants
- Tied with the end
- Without a bight available: take the end around the object, around the standing part, then around the object a second time in the opposite direction and tuck it under itself.
- Secured cow hitch
- For pull on one strand, the end is additionally tucked through the bight or secured with a stopper. Names and versions vary.
Common mistakes
- Confusing it with the clove hitch – in the cow hitch the two turns run in opposite directions
- Loading only one strand
Limits and risks
- Specific rules apply to slings in climbing, which are not taught here.
Load and limits
Holds best with equal pull on both strands. Every knot reduces a rope's breaking strength because tight bends load the fibres unevenly. How much depends on material, construction, diameter and test method; no single figures are given here on purpose.
Material alternatives
Derived from material properties: a substitute must have all relevant properties. Observe the notes on the substitute.
- Rope
- Paracord (Not a climbing or safety rope.)
- Paracord
- Rope (Never use unknown or damaged rope for life-safety purposes.)
- Webbing (tubular webbing)
- Rope (Never use unknown or damaged rope for life-safety purposes.), Paracord (Not a climbing or safety rope.), Thin twine (Low breaking strength – light loads only.), Accessory cord (Use only certified cord after training for life-safety purposes.), Jute or sisal twine (bought) (Low strength, absorbs water and rots – light loads and practice only.), Tree straps (Load only within the manufacturer's limits.)
Results come exclusively from structured entries. No improvised instructions are generated.
Sources
Clifford W. Ashley – Doubleday, Doran & Co. (1944): The Ashley Book of Knots
Cow hitch and its variants
Geoffrey Budworth (1997): The Complete Book of Knots
Cow hitch and how it differs from the clove hitch
The Mountaineers Books (2017): Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills, 9th edition
Girth hitch with slings