Double overhand knot
An overhand knot in which the end is tucked through the loop a second time. It makes a bulkier, more secure stopper than the single overhand, but is hard to untie after loading.
- a few seconds
Explained simply
The double overhand knot is an overhand knot with an extra round. You form the small circle as usual, but pass the end through twice instead of once. This makes the knot longer and thicker – like a little sausage in the rope.
That is handy with thin cord, where a single overhand is so tiny it slips through every hole. The double one, on the other hand, gets stuck, like a fat button.
The downside: after a hard pull you can hardly get it open again. So tie it where it may stay. People must not hang from it.
How it works
The second tuck makes the end spiral around itself. When it is set, the two wraps roll around each other into an elongated, barrel-shaped knot. It is longer and thicker than the single overhand and therefore less likely to slip through openings.
Because the wraps nip each other, it also holds well in slick cord. The same property makes it hard to untie after loading: the wraps pull together into a compact bundle. For a stopper, its bulk matters rather than its tensile strength.
The same basic form is found in other knots: two double overhands, each tied around the other rope, make the double fisherman's bend, a well-known bend.
How to recognise a correctly tied knot
The key is setting it slowly. At first pull only gently on both sides and watch the two wraps settle around each other. A neatly set double overhand shows two slanting, parallel wraps forming a tidy spiral – not a jumble of crossed strands.
Only when the shape is right do you pull hard. If you set it too fast, the wraps end up twisted and messy, the knot becomes lumpy and holds less well. Leave a sufficiently long tail and don't trim it too short.
When it makes sense – and when not
The double overhand is ideal as a stopper on thin cord, as a lump that must not slip through an eyelet or hole, and as a backup for the tail behind other knots – for example on the bowline, where the tail can be secured with it around the neighbouring loop leg.
It is unsuitable where the knot must come undone easily later, and it only stops slipping if the opening is clearly smaller than the knot. For thicker rope that will be reused, the figure-eight or stevedore knot is more pleasant.
Safety and failure modes
As a stopper the double overhand fails in almost only two ways: it is pulled through an opening that is too large, or a tail trimmed too short slips out while setting. Both can be avoided by choosing the spot deliberately and leaving a long tail.
After heavy loading it can hardly be untied. Don't try to pry it open with a knife – you risk cutting yourself and the rope gets damaged. Better to flex, knead and be patient, or simply leave the knot in on a non-critical piece of rope. None of the knots in this atlas is meant for life-safety use – not for climbing, abseiling, rescue or holding and lifting people. Life-safety use only after proper training with certified equipment.
How to practise it – and good to know
First tie a single overhand but don't set it. Take the end around a second time and through the same loop. Hold both sides loosely and pull apart very slowly – watch the spiral form. Repeat until the shape comes out neatly every time.
A third tuck gives an even thicker, barrel-shaped knot that sometimes serves as a grip or marker on thin cord. The double overhand is one of the oldest and simplest bulking knots; in English books you also find it under names such as 'barrel knot' or 'blood knot', although these do not always mean exactly the same knot.
Step by step
Make a loop
Form a loop near the end, as for an overhand knot.
Shown loosely laid out. Dress and tighten before loading.
- 1
Make a loop
Form a loop near the end, as for an overhand knot.
- 2
Tuck twice
Pass the end through the loop, then take it around once more and through the same loop again.
- 3
Dress and set
Pull slowly on both sides. The two wraps should roll neatly around each other; only then pull tight.
Common mistakes
- Setting it too fast so the wraps end up twisted and messy
- Cutting the tail too short
Quick view
Materials
Rope
Never use unknown or damaged rope for life-safety purposes.
Paracord
Not a climbing or safety rope.
Thin twine
Low breaking strength – light loads only.
Suitable for
- A stopper that must not slip through an eyelet or hole
- A thicker end on thin cord
- Backing up the tail behind other knots
Not suitable for
- Places where the knot must later be untied easily
- Life-safety applications
Prerequisites
- Overhand knot
How it works
The extra tuck makes the end spiral around itself. The knot becomes longer and thicker than a single overhand and is less likely to pull through openings. The same basic form is the building block of the double fisherman's bend.
Advantages
- Very simple
- Bulkier than a single overhand
- Holds well even in slick cord
Disadvantages
- Hard to untie after loading
- Uses more rope than the single overhand
Deep knowledge
Background
The double overhand is one of the oldest and simplest bulking knots. Knot books treat it as a basic form from which several bends and binding knots are derived.
In camp it is most useful on thin cords where a single overhand stays too small.
Variants
- Multiple overhand knot
- A third tuck gives an even thicker, barrel-shaped knot, e.g. as a grip or marker on thin cord.
Common mistakes
- Setting it too fast so the wraps end up twisted and messy
- Cutting the tail too short
Limits and risks
- Only stops slipping if the opening is clearly smaller than the knot.
Load and limits
As a stopper, bulk matters rather than tensile strength. Every knot reduces a rope's breaking strength because tight bends load the fibres unevenly. How much depends on material, construction, diameter and test method; no single figures are given here on purpose.
Material alternatives
Derived from material properties: a substitute must have all relevant properties. Observe the notes on the substitute.
- Rope
- Paracord (Not a climbing or safety rope.)
- Paracord
- Rope (Never use unknown or damaged rope for life-safety purposes.)
- Thin twine
- Rope (Never use unknown or damaged rope for life-safety purposes.), Paracord (Not a climbing or safety rope.), Accessory cord (Use only certified cord after training for life-safety purposes.), Webbing (tubular webbing) (Inspect knotted webbing before every use.), Jute or sisal twine (bought) (Low strength, absorbs water and rots – light loads and practice only.), Tree straps (Load only within the manufacturer's limits.)
Results come exclusively from structured entries. No improvised instructions are generated.
Sources
Clifford W. Ashley – Doubleday, Doran & Co. (1944): The Ashley Book of Knots
Double and multiple overhand knots as stoppers
Geoffrey Budworth (1997): The Complete Book of Knots
Double overhand knot