Water knot (tape knot)
The knot for flat webbing: an overhand knot in one end is retraced exactly by the other end from the opposite direction. The tails can creep out under cyclic loading – so check before every use. In mountaineering only with training.
- about a minute
Explained simply
The water knot is the knot for flat webbing, like the kind used for backpack straps. You tie a loose, simple knot in one end of the webbing. Then you follow exactly the same path with the other end, only from the opposite direction – like tracing over a line with a pen.
In the end, two bands lie flat on top of each other and form a knot together. Because flat webbing has a lot of surface touching, it holds well. The important thing is that nothing is twisted.
One special point to remember: the tails can slowly work their way out under repeated loading. So you leave them long and check before every use. For climbing and rescue: only after proper training with certified equipment.
How it works
The water knot is an overhand knot tied double. The first end of webbing lays out the knot, and the second follows it exactly in the opposite direction, layer by layer. At the end, two layers of webbing lie flat on top of each other everywhere, and a standing part and a tail come out on each side.
Flat webbing has a much larger contact area than round rope. Where the layers touch, friction arises, and that friction holds the knot together. Every twist in the webbing reduces this area. At the same time webbing is often slick and somewhat stiff – which is why the tails can work through the knot bit by bit under changing loads.
How to recognise a correctly tied knot
In a good water knot, both bands lie flat and parallel on each other throughout, without twists and without any place where they cross over each other. The second band follows the first so exactly that you might almost think it was a single, thicker band. A standing part and a tail come out on each side of the knot.
It is set firmly: pull on all four strands, in pairs, until the knot is compact and tight. A water knot that is only lightly set creeps more easily. Leave the tails clearly longer than with many rope knots – generously long tails give you a reserve if they creep in a little, and you notice a change sooner.
Typical mistakes and how the knot fails
Typical mistakes are twisted webbing in the knot, tails that are too short, and a knot that is only lightly set. The most important failure mode is tail creep: with each loading and unloading, a tiny bit of tail can slip into the knot. Over many repetitions the tail can disappear completely, and then the knot comes undone.
That is why the fourth mistake is perhaps the most dangerous: tying the knot once and never looking at it again. A water knot that stays in use for a long time must be checked regularly. If the tails get shorter, retie it. For round rope there are better bends.
When it makes sense – and when not
The knot is the obvious solution when you want to join two ends of webbing or close a piece of webbing into a loop – for example for an improvised carry strap or a tie-down band for luggage. Such improvised straps are not meant for people.
In mountaineering it is taught together with a warning about tail creep, and sewn slings have largely replaced it there. A self-tied webbing loop is not a substitute for a sewn, certified sling. Life-safety use only after proper training with certified equipment.
Care and inspection
Make it a habit to take a quick look before every use: are the bands still lying flat? Are both tails still as long as when you tied it? It helps to note the tail length when tying, so that you notice any change.
Also look at the webbing itself: frayed edges, hard, shiny spots or discolouration point to abrasion, heat or ageing. Synthetic webbing also ages in sunlight. Webbing that looks like that should be retired, however good the knot is.
Step by step
Loose overhand
Tie a loose overhand knot in one end of the webbing, keeping it flat and untwisted.
Shown loosely laid out. Dress and tighten before loading.
- 1
Loose overhand
Tie a loose overhand knot in one end of the webbing, keeping it flat and untwisted.
- 2
Retrace with the other end
Feed the other end into the knot from the side where the first end emerges and follow the path exactly and flat until it exits beside the first band's standing part.
- 3
Set and check
Pull all four strands firmly. Check: both bands lie flat and parallel throughout, no twists, both tails long enough.
Common mistakes
- Twisted webbing in the knot
- Tails too short
- Knot only lightly set
- Not inspecting the knot regularly
Quick view
Materials
Webbing (tubular webbing)
Inspect knotted webbing before every use.
UV light and abrasion age webbing; do not load damaged webbing.
Suitable for
- Joining two ends of webbing
- Closing webbing into a loop
- Improvising carry straps or tie-down bands (not people)
Not suitable for
- Round rope – there are better bends for that
- Life-safety applications without training
- Unchecked long-term use
Prerequisites
- Overhand knot
Safety
- The tails of a water knot can slowly creep out under repeated loading. Leave long tails, set the knot firmly and inspect it before each use.
How it works
Two layers of webbing lie flat on each other and together form an overhand knot. Flat webbing has a large contact area and therefore high friction; twists reduce it.
Advantages
- Simple once you know the overhand
- Suited to flat webbing
- Easy to inspect visually
Disadvantages
- Tails can creep out
- Hard to untie after high loads
Deep knowledge
Background
The water knot is the classic knot for joining webbing. In mountaineering it is taught together with a warning about tail creep; sewn slings have largely replaced it there.
For improvised webbing straps in everyday use it remains the obvious solution.
Common mistakes
- Twisted webbing in the knot
- Tails too short
- Knot only lightly set
- Not inspecting the knot regularly
Limits and risks
- Not a substitute for sewn, certified slings in mountaineering.
Load and limits
Tails can creep under cyclic loading. Every knot reduces a rope's breaking strength because tight bends load the fibres unevenly. How much depends on material, construction, diameter and test method; no single figures are given here on purpose.
Material alternatives
Derived from material properties: a substitute must have all relevant properties. Observe the notes on the substitute.
- Webbing (tubular webbing)
- Rope (Never use unknown or damaged rope for life-safety purposes.), Paracord (Not a climbing or safety rope.), Thin twine (Low breaking strength – light loads only.), Accessory cord (Use only certified cord after training for life-safety purposes.), Jute or sisal twine (bought) (Low strength, absorbs water and rots – light loads and practice only.), Tree straps (Load only within the manufacturer's limits.)
Results come exclusively from structured entries. No improvised instructions are generated.
Sources
The Mountaineers Books (2017): Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills, 9th edition
Water knot and checking the tails
Clifford W. Ashley – Doubleday, Doran & Co. (1944): The Ashley Book of Knots
Overhand bend for tape