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Fixed loops compared: bowline, figure-eight loop, alpine butterfly, overhand loop, double bowline and bowline on a bight

Which fixed loop suits my task?

Six knots that form a loop which does not tighten under load – for guylines, ridgelines, luggage and camp tasks. They are compared on whether they can be untied after loading, whether they can be tied mid-rope, whether they can be tied around an object, how easy they are to check and how securely they hold. This comparison does not apply to climbing, abseiling, rescue or securing people: that requires training, certified equipment and a partner check.

Starting situation
Legend
Select methods to compare side by sideMethodUnties after loadingCan be tied mid-ropeCan be tied around an objectEasy to check for mistakesDoes not come undone by itselfCan be loaded in several directions
BowlineYesNoYesPartlyNoNo
Figure-eight loop (on a bight)PartlyYesNoYesYesNo
Alpine butterfly loopYesYesNoPartlyYesYes
Overhand loop (overhand on a bight)NoYesNoYesYesNo
Double bowline (round-turn bowline)YesNoYesPartlyPartlyNo
Bowline on a bightYesYesNoNoDependsDepends

Legend:● Yes◐ Partly◇ Depends○ No* = note available

Bowline

Effort:
Low, once practised
Needs:
A rope end
  • Unties after loadingYes

    Usually easy to untie.

  • Can be tied mid-ropeNo

    Needs the rope end.

  • Can be tied around an objectYes
  • Easy to check for mistakesPartly
  • Does not come undone by itselfNo

    Can loosen when unloaded, when shaken or in stiff, slick rope. Leave a long tail and back it up where needed.

  • Can be loaded in several directionsNo

    If the loop is pulled apart from two sides, the knot can capsize.

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Figure-eight loop (on a bight)

Effort:
Low
Needs:
A little more rope than other loops
  • Unties after loadingPartly

    Usually untieable; after very high loads it can be stiff.

  • Can be tied mid-ropeYes
  • Can be tied around an objectNo

    Not around closed objects; the figure-eight follow-through serves that purpose.

  • Easy to check for mistakesYes

    Clear, easily recognisable knot pattern.

  • Does not come undone by itselfYes
  • Can be loaded in several directionsNo

    Intended for pull through the loop; the alpine butterfly is intended for pull in several directions.

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Alpine butterfly loop

Effort:
Moderate, needs practice
Needs:
Mid-section of rope; a reliable reference picture
  • Unties after loadingYes

    Jams little.

  • Can be tied mid-ropeYes

    That is what it is made for; also for isolating a damaged section of rope.

  • Can be tied around an objectNo
  • Easy to check for mistakesPartly

    Mistakes are hard for beginners to spot; after setting, pull on both strands – the loop must not change size.

  • Does not come undone by itselfYes

    When tied correctly; a mistied knot can slip.

  • Can be loaded in several directionsYes

    Can be loaded through the loop and along both strands.

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Overhand loop (overhand on a bight)

Effort:
Very low
Needs:
Rope you can sacrifice if necessary
  • Unties after loadingNo

    Jams hard after loading; often almost impossible to untie.

  • Can be tied mid-ropeYes
  • Can be tied around an objectNo
  • Easy to check for mistakesYes
  • Does not come undone by itselfYes

    Holds in slick cord too.

  • Can be loaded in several directionsNo
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Double bowline (round-turn bowline)

Effort:
Low to moderate
Needs:
A rope end, a little more rope than a bowline
  • Unties after loadingYes
  • Can be tied mid-ropeNo
  • Can be tied around an objectYes
  • Easy to check for mistakesPartly

    Harder to check than a figure-eight loop.

  • Does not come undone by itselfPartly

    Somewhat more resistant than the plain bowline, but does not replace backing up the tail.

  • Can be loaded in several directionsNo
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Bowline on a bight

Effort:
Moderate
Needs:
Doubled rope, plenty of rope length
  • Unties after loadingYes

    Usually easy to untie.

  • Can be tied mid-ropeYes

    Gives two loops side by side.

  • Can be tied around an objectNo
  • Easy to check for mistakesNo

    Mistakes are harder to spot than with a figure-eight loop.

  • Does not come undone by itselfDepends

    Not conclusively checked here; inspect before every loading.

  • Can be loaded in several directionsDepends

    Not described for pull in several directions.

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