Double bowline (round-turn bowline)
A bowline in which the loop in the standing part is made twice. The extra turn adds friction and makes it somewhat more resistant to coming undone than the plain bowline – but it does not replace properly securing the tail.
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Explained simply
The double bowline is a knot that makes a fixed loop at the end of a rope – a loop that does not tighten. It is a close relative of the ordinary bowline. The difference: at the start you do not lay one small loop in the rope, but two, directly on top of each other.
This double loop squeezes the end more firmly, a bit like two fingers holding a pencil more firmly than one. That is why the double bowline is somewhat less likely to come undone by itself than the single one.
Because bowline knots are also used in climbing, this is especially important here: this page is not a climbing guide. Such a knot may only be used for people after proper training with certified equipment.
How it works
In the ordinary bowline you form a small loop in the standing part, pass the end up through it, around the standing part and back down. Under load the loop tightens around the two strands of the end and holds them. In the double bowline this loop consists of two identically twisted turns – a small round turn.
Two turns mean more contact area and more friction on the end. So the end is held more firmly, especially in slick or stiff rope, where a single bowline is more likely to give. Even so, it remains a bowline: it does not jam after loading and usually unties easily. And it shares the weakness of all bowline variants of loosening when shaken back and forth while unloaded.
How to recognise a correctly tied knot
First look at the two turns on the standing part: they must be twisted the same way and lie neatly side by side. If they are twisted in opposite directions, one turn simply falls out when you set the knot, leaving an ordinary bowline – or a messy tangle. The end runs up through both turns, around behind the standing part and back down through both.
Second, check which side the end lies on. In the usual bowline it lies on the inside of the loop. If it lies outside, that is the left-hand form, which is regarded as less reliable. Dress the turns before setting, then pull all strands snug one after another and leave a long tail. Backing up the tail for serious purposes belongs in training; this page does not teach it.
When it makes sense – and when not
In camp and on board the double bowline is a good choice for a fixed loop in slick or stiff rope, and for loops that should untie again after loading – for example to drop a line over a post or to make a rope fast to a tree.
It is not suitable when the loop is loaded crosswise, that is when the two sides of the loop are pulled in opposite directions (ring loading). Bowline variants can lose their shape that way. Nor is it a replacement for a tie-in knot: many training schemes prefer the figure-eight follow-through for tying in because it is easier to inspect.
Safety: what to watch out for
Bowline variants are used in some climbing. There, a mistied or poorly checked knot can be fatal. Life-safety use only after proper training with certified equipment, guided by qualified instructors and with a partner check by a second trained person.
In everyday use too: leave a long tail, check the knot before every load, and remember that it can loosen when it dangles or flaps unloaded for a long time. Typical mistakes are turns twisted in opposite directions, a tail on the wrong side and a tail that is too short. Use the Yosemite finish common in climbing only after instruction by trainers – tied wrong it can weaken the knot.
Good to know
'Double bowline' is an ambiguous name. It usually means the round-turn bowline, but sometimes the bowline on a bight, which has two loops. When you learn a knot from a book or video, always go by the picture, not just the name.
To practise, tie the single and the double bowline side by side in the same rope and compare them. Count the turns around the end, check which side the end lies on, and set both. This way you learn to see the difference at a glance.
Step by step
Two loops on top of each other
Form a small loop in the standing part as for a bowline: the part leading to the end lies on top of the standing part. Take the rope round once more in the same way, so a second, identically twisted loop forms that also lies over the standing part. In the drawing the second loop lies around the outside of the first.
Shown loosely laid out. Dress and tighten before loading.
- 1
Two loops on top of each other
Form a small loop in the standing part as for a bowline: the part leading to the end lies on top of the standing part. Take the rope round once more in the same way, so a second, identically twisted loop forms that also lies over the standing part. In the drawing the second loop lies around the outside of the first.
- 2
End up through both loops
Pass the end up through both loops from underneath, leaving the loop size you want.
- 3
Around the standing part and back
Take the end round behind the standing part and back across its front. Then pass it back down through both loops the same way it came, so it lies beside its own leg on the inside of the loop.
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Set and back up
Dress the turns, pull tight and leave a long tail. Back up the tail as shown in training.
Common mistakes
- Loops twisted in opposite directions – then the turn falls out
- Tail on the wrong side of the loop (left-hand bowline)
- Tail too short and not backed up
Quick view
Materials
Rope
Never use unknown or damaged rope for life-safety purposes.
Suitable for
- A fixed loop in slick or stiff rope
- A loop that should still untie after loading
- A foundation for properly trained rope work
Not suitable for
- Life-safety use without training
- Loading across the loop (ring loading)
Prerequisites
- Bowline
Safety
- Bowline variants can loosen when shaken while unloaded. Leave a long tail, back it up and check before every loading.
How it works
Instead of one loop, two turns are made in the standing part. The end runs up through both, around the standing part and back down. The double turn grips the end better than in the plain bowline.
Advantages
- More resistant to coming undone than the plain bowline
- Unties after loading
Disadvantages
- Uses a little more rope
- Harder to inspect than a figure-eight loop
Deep knowledge
Background
Double bowline is an ambiguous name: it usually means the round-turn bowline, but sometimes the bowline on a bight. So always check the picture when learning.
Bowline variants are used in some climbing, but many training schemes prefer the figure-eight follow-through for tying in because it is easier to inspect.
Variants
- Yosemite finish
- A finish common in climbing in which the tail is taken once more around the loop and back alongside the standing part. Use only after instruction by qualified instructors; tied wrong it can weaken the knot.
Common mistakes
- Loops twisted in opposite directions – then the turn falls out
- Tail on the wrong side of the loop (left-hand bowline)
- Tail too short and not backed up
Limits and risks
- Not a tie-in knot without training.
- This page does not teach tail back-ups for life-safety use.
Load and limits
Load only along the loop. Every knot reduces a rope's breaking strength because tight bends load the fibres unevenly. How much depends on material, construction, diameter and test method; no single figures are given here on purpose.
Material alternatives
Derived from material properties: a substitute must have all relevant properties. Observe the notes on the substitute.
- Rope
- Paracord (Not a climbing or safety rope.)
Results come exclusively from structured entries. No improvised instructions are generated.
Sources
Clifford W. Ashley – Doubleday, Doran & Co. (1944): The Ashley Book of Knots
Bowline variants with a round turn
Geoffrey Budworth (1997): The Complete Book of Knots
Double bowline