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Knot

Buntline hitch

A clove hitch tied around its own standing part, with the second turn made towards the object. Compact and very secure against flapping and jerking, but it jams under heavy load.

Difficulty
Basic
Effort
under half a minute
Risk level
Practical skill
Report an error

Explained simply

The buntline hitch is a small, firm knot for tying a line to a ring or an eyelet. It is famous for not coming loose even when the line flaps and jerks in the wind for hours.

Its secret: the loose end is tucked in at the finish so that it lies inside the knot, right next to the ring. When someone pulls on the line, the knot squeezes the end even more tightly – like a clip that grips harder the more you pull.

That has a downside too: after a hard pull it is often difficult to undo. So it is meant for things that should stay tied for a long time – and, like all knots here, not for people.

How it works

The buntline hitch is basically a clove hitch tied around the rope's own standing part. The difference from two ordinary half hitches lies in the direction: with two half hitches you work away from the object and the end finishes on the outside. With the buntline hitch, the second turn is laid back towards the object, and the end comes out between the knot and the ring.

When the line is loaded, the standing part pulls the knot against the ring. This traps the end between the turns instead of releasing it. Especially with constant back-and-forth – flapping, slapping, short jerks – the end can hardly work its way out. The same trapping effect, however, makes the knot cinch down hard under heavy load.

How to recognise a correctly tied knot

Look at where the end points. In a correctly tied buntline hitch it points towards the ring or eyelet and disappears under the turn nearest the object. If the end points away from the object and lies on the outside of the knot, you have tied two half hitches – still a usable knot, but without the special trapping effect.

Dress the turns before setting so they lie neatly side by side. Then pull on the end and the standing part and slide the whole knot up to the ring. A knot that sits far from the ring leaves a small loop free at the object, which can rub and slap. The tail should stick out visibly.

When it makes sense – and when not

The buntline hitch is ideal at points that move constantly and need to hold for a long time: a guyline at a tarp grommet that slaps in the wind, a pull cord on a bag, a grab handle, a line to a wobbling ring. It is small, neat and uses little rope.

It is unsuitable when you want to untie the knot after a heavy load – then the round turn and two half hitches is the better choice. It also cannot be tied under tension. In very thin, slick cord it can sit so tight after heavy loading that it practically has to be cut off.

Safety and typical mistakes

The most common mistake is the wrong direction for the second turn – away from the object instead of towards it. Then the end lies outside and the knot behaves like two half hitches. Also common: the knot is not slid up to the object. Because the exact sequence is still awaiting an expert check, compare the finished knot with a reliable illustration.

Make sure the eyelet or ring has no sharp edges. Especially on metal tarp grommets a line can wear through over time, regardless of the knot. The buntline hitch is a knot for gear. Life-safety use of knots only after proper training with certified equipment.

Good to know

The name comes from buntlines: lines used on old sailing ships to haul up the large square sails. These sails flogged violently in the wind, and a knot that shook loose was a real problem. The buntline hitch was the answer.

To practise, tie it to a key ring and then shake the line hard. Tie two half hitches next to it for comparison and shake them the same way. After a while you will see which knot stays neat – and you will learn to tell the difference by the direction of the end.

Step by step

Buntline hitch

Step 1 of 4

Around the object

Around the objectPass the end through the ring or around the object and bring it back so it lies below the standing part.

Pass the end through the ring or around the object and bring it back so it lies below the standing part.

Buntline hitch – Step 1 of 4Around the object. Pass the end through the ring or around the object and bring it back so it lies below the standing part.
Standing part Working end
Step 1 of 4

Step 1 of 4

Around the object

Pass the end through the ring or around the object and bring it back so it lies below the standing part.

Shown loosely laid out. Dress and tighten before loading.

  1. 1

    Around the object

    Pass the end through the ring or around the object and bring it back so it lies below the standing part.

  2. 2

    First turn around the standing part

    Bring the end up across the front of the standing part, round behind it and back down a little further away from the object. Then take it across the front of its own strand.

  3. 3

    Second turn towards the object

    Take the end diagonally across the front of the standing part towards the object, round behind it and back down. This second turn lies closer to the object than the first.

  4. 4

    Tuck under the second turn

    Bring the end up across the front of the standing part once more and tuck it under the diagonal part of the second turn, so it points towards the object. Set it and slide the knot up to the object.

No reviewed video is available for this technique yet.

Common mistakes

  • Making the second turn away from the object – that gives two half hitches with the end outside
  • Not sliding the knot up to the object

Quick view

Materials

  • Rope

    Never use unknown or damaged rope for life-safety purposes.

  • Paracord(optional)

    Not a climbing or safety rope.

Suitable for

  • A line to a ring, eye or tarp grommet that flaps in the wind
  • An attachment that must not shake loose
  • Pull lines and grab handles

Not suitable for

  • Life-safety applications
  • Rope that must be untied after heavy loading

Prerequisites

  • Clove hitch
  • Two half hitches

Safety

  • The step sequence for this knot has not yet been checked by an expert. Always compare the tied knot with a reliable illustration or an experienced person.

How it works

Because the second turn lies between the first turn and the object, the end is trapped rather than released under load. With two ordinary half hitches the end lies on the outside instead.

Advantages

  • Hardly shakes loose
  • Small and compact
  • Easy once you know the clove hitch

Disadvantages

  • Jams after heavy loading
  • Cannot be tied under tension

Deep knowledge

Background

The name comes from the buntlines on square sails, which flog and flap hard. They needed a knot that would not shake loose under constant flapping.

The same knot form is used ashore as a simple knot for pull cords, where it usually stays tied for good.

Common mistakes

  • Making the second turn away from the object – that gives two half hitches with the end outside
  • Not sliding the knot up to the object

Limits and risks

  • Meant for lasting attachments, not frequent untying.

Load and limits

Jams under heavy load. Every knot reduces a rope's breaking strength because tight bends load the fibres unevenly. How much depends on material, construction, diameter and test method; no single figures are given here on purpose.

Material alternatives

Derived from material properties: a substitute must have all relevant properties. Observe the notes on the substitute.

Rope
Paracord (Not a climbing or safety rope.)
Paracord
Rope (Never use unknown or damaged rope for life-safety purposes.)

Results come exclusively from structured entries. No improvised instructions are generated.

Sources

  1. [1]

    Clifford W. Ashley – Doubleday, Doran & Co. (1944): The Ashley Book of Knots

    Buntline hitch

  2. [2]

    Geoffrey Budworth (1997): The Complete Book of Knots

    Buntline hitch compared with two half hitches

Rev. 1 · Updated 2026-10-10