Constrictor knot
A binding knot that grips a round object extremely tightly: sack necks, bundles, hose ends, or a rope end before cutting. Often so tight it can only be cut off.
- under half a minute
Explained simply
The constrictor knot does exactly what its name says: it pulls itself very tight around something round and does not let go. You can use it to tie a sack shut, hold a bundle of sticks together, or secure a rope end before you cut it.
It looks almost like a clove hitch – two turns around an object that cross in the middle. The trick: under this crossing there is also a little knot, pressed down by the diagonal turn like a belt. The harder you pull on the ends, the tighter everything gets.
Because it holds so tightly, you often have to cut it off. Always cut away from your body when you do. And never tie it around a finger, arm or any other body part – it closes far too tight.
How it works
The constrictor is a clove hitch with an extra trick. On the final tuck, the end is passed not only under the diagonal turn but straight after that under the standing part as well. This makes the two ends form an overhand knot under the crossing – the simplest knot of all, the first step you know from tying shoelaces.
The diagonal turn lies across this overhand like a clamp and presses it onto the object. When you pull the ends, the overhand gets tighter and the diagonal turn holds it in place. Because the forces reinforce each other, the knot does not loosen by itself. It works best on round objects, because the pressure there is even all the way round.
How to recognise a correctly tied knot
From above, a finished constrictor looks like a clove hitch: two parallel turns and a diagonal turn crossing over them. The difference is hidden underneath. If you lift the diagonal turn slightly, you should see the two ends wrapping around each other in an overhand knot under it. If the ends just come out in parallel under one turn, you have tied a clove hitch.
It is set hard: pull both ends at the same time until it bites deep into the object or the wrapped cord. With thin cord it helps to wrap the ends around a stick so you can pull harder. If it is to stay permanently, trim the ends short; if it needs to come undone later, leave them longer or tie it slipped.
Typical mistakes and how the knot fails
The most common mistake: the end is tucked only under the second turn. Then it is not a constrictor but a clove hitch, which works loose much more easily when things move. A second mistake is using it on flat or square objects and relying on its grip. Over corners the cord does not lie snug all round, and the pressure is uneven.
It can also fail if the cord is too thick and stiff to bed down tightly, or if it is very slick. The double version with an extra turn helps then. Good to know: a constrictor is not a substitute for a hose clamp on a pressurised line, and it is not a knot for carrying loads.
When it makes sense – and when not
Wherever something round should stay firmly bound for good, the constrictor shines: the neck of a sack, a bundle of poles or brushwood, a rope end before cutting so it does not unravel. In DIY it can serve, for example, as a temporary clamp while gluing.
It is unsuitable for anything you will want to open soon, because often only a knife helps then. A clove hitch or the slipped version is better there. And once more, explicitly: never tie it around body parts. It closes so tightly that it can cut off blood flow. First aid has its own rules, which you learn on a course.
Safety when cutting it off
When the knot has to go, place the knife on the diagonal turn that lies over the crossing. Once that is cut, the remaining turns usually fall away by themselves. This way you avoid cutting into the object beneath – such as a rope, a sack or a piece of wood you still need.
Always move the blade away from your body and your other hand, and hold the object so that a slip will not hit you. With very tight knots, a small sharp blade is safer than a lot of force with a blunt one. Children should do this only under supervision.
Step by step
First turn
Lay the rope across the front of the object, take the end round behind it and bring it back to the front below the standing part.
Shown loosely laid out. Dress and tighten before loading.
- 1
First turn
Lay the rope across the front of the object, take the end round behind it and bring it back to the front below the standing part.
- 2
Cross diagonally and second turn
Take the end diagonally upwards across the front of the standing part and around the object a second time – above the first turn, as for a clove hitch. The diagonal part in front is the riding turn.
- 3
Tuck under the crossing
Bring the end diagonally down across the front and tuck it under the riding turn – and straight after that under the standing part too, so it passes beneath the crossing. It comes out beside the standing part, on the other side. An overhand knot made of the end and the standing part now lies under the riding turn.
- 4
Pull hard
Pull both ends hard. Trim the ends short if the knot is to stay permanently.
Common mistakes
- Tucking the end only under the riding turn and not under the standing part as well – that is a clove hitch
- Using it on flat objects and relying on its grip
Quick view
Materials
Thin twine
Low breaking strength – light loads only.
Paracord
Not a climbing or safety rope.
Suitable for
- Tying a sack or bag shut firmly
- Securing a rope end before cutting
- Tightly binding a bundle of poles or brushwood
- Temporary clamping, e.g. while gluing
Not suitable for
- Anything that must open easily later
- Flat or square objects – it grips less there
- Tying around body parts
Prerequisites
- Clove hitch
Safety
- The knot is often cut to release it. Cut away from your body and on the diagonal riding turn so the object beneath is not damaged.
How it works
Built like a clove hitch in which the ends also form an overhand knot under the diagonal turn. The diagonal turn presses this overhand down on the object – pulling the ends tightens it further.
Advantages
- Extremely firm grip
- Quick to tie
- Needs little cord
Disadvantages
- Hard to release without a knife
- Less effective on flat objects
Deep knowledge
Background
The constrictor knot was popularised by Clifford Ashley, who described it as one of the most useful binding knots. It is closely related to the clove hitch.
In camp it is ideal for anything that should stay tightly bound, such as securing a rope end before cutting.
Variants
- Double constrictor
- With an extra turn before the tuck it grips even harder on larger diameters or smooth surfaces.
- Slipped
- Tied with a bight instead of the end, it can be released without a knife – but grips a little less.
Common mistakes
- Tucking the end only under the riding turn and not under the standing part as well – that is a clove hitch
- Using it on flat objects and relying on its grip
Limits and risks
- Not a replacement for hose clamps on pressurised lines.
Load and limits
Grips round objects very firmly; flat ones less so. Every knot reduces a rope's breaking strength because tight bends load the fibres unevenly. How much depends on material, construction, diameter and test method; no single figures are given here on purpose.
Material alternatives
Derived from material properties: a substitute must have all relevant properties. Observe the notes on the substitute.
- Thin twine
- Rope (Never use unknown or damaged rope for life-safety purposes.), Paracord (Not a climbing or safety rope.), Accessory cord (Use only certified cord after training for life-safety purposes.), Webbing (tubular webbing) (Inspect knotted webbing before every use.), Jute or sisal twine (bought) (Low strength, absorbs water and rots – light loads and practice only.), Tree straps (Load only within the manufacturer's limits.)
- Paracord
- Rope (Never use unknown or damaged rope for life-safety purposes.)
Results come exclusively from structured entries. No improvised instructions are generated.
Sources
Clifford W. Ashley – Doubleday, Doran & Co. (1944): The Ashley Book of Knots
Constrictor knot as a binding knot
Geoffrey Budworth (1997): The Complete Book of Knots
Constrictor knot, double and slipped versions