Marling hitch (lashing a bundle)
A series of hitches along a long bundle – such as a rolled tarp, sleeping pad or bundle of poles. Each hitch is tucked so that it locks itself; the bundle stays together even if one point gives way.
- one to three minutes
Explained simply
With the marling hitch you lash up something long, for example a rolled tarp, a sleeping mat or a bundle of sticks. You take a cord around the bundle again and again at intervals, like rings around a sausage.
The trick is how you tuck the end on each round: first over the tensioned cord, then underneath it. This makes a small knot at each point that locks itself. Even if one point loosens, the others hold the bundle together.
The marling hitch is meant for bundles you carry or transport. It is not load securing for cars and not something to lift heavy loads over people with.
How it works
When lashing a bundle there is a tensioned lengthwise strand running along it, and rounds that go around it. At each round the rope has to be made fast to the lengthwise strand somehow. The simplest way is a half hitch – the end is just tucked under the lengthwise strand. Under load, however, a half hitch can creep along the bundle.
In the marling hitch the end is taken first over the lengthwise strand and then under it. This forms a small overhand around the lengthwise strand. It presses the strand against the bundle and grips it instead of just running around it. Each round therefore holds on its own, and the whole bundle stays evenly tight.
How to recognise a correctly tied knot
In a correctly tied marling hitch each round shows a small crossing where the lengthwise strand is visibly trapped under the round. With a series of half hitches, by contrast, you see small loops that the lengthwise strand simply runs through. Both look similar at first glance – the difference shows when you jiggle a round: the marling hitch stays put, the half hitch slides.
Dress each round before laying the next and pull it snug. Keep the lengthwise strand tensioned between rounds, otherwise the bundle loosens. Even spacing not only looks neater, it also spreads the pressure evenly. At the start and finish you need a firm knot, such as a clove hitch or constrictor to begin and two half hitches to finish, with a sufficiently long tail.
When it makes sense – and when not
The marling hitch is ideal for anything long and rolled: a tarp or blanket for carrying, a sleeping mat on the outside of a pack, a bundle of tent poles, firewood or sticks for a shelter. Because each round holds on its own, nothing slips out even when the bundle swings as you carry it.
For short bundles two or three separate ties are often enough. For very long bundles the marling hitch uses a lot of rope. It is also not meant for lifting loads or moving them over people, and it does not replace load securing on vehicles – there are separate rules and equipment for that.
Safety and typical mistakes
The most common mistake is tucking the end only under the lengthwise strand. That gives half hitches that can slide. Other mistakes are uneven spacing and a lengthwise strand that is not re-tensioned as you go. Because the exact sequence is still awaiting an expert check, compare the result with a reliable illustration.
When bundling wood or poles: carry only as much as you can carry safely and keep your back straight when lifting. Bundles hanging off a pack can snag on branches. Life-safety use of knots only after proper training with certified equipment.
Good to know
The marling hitch comes from seamanship. Sails were lashed to spars – round wooden poles – and bundles were tied up for transport. Knot books like to set it against the series of half hitches, because the two look almost identical but behave very differently.
A rolled blanket or sleeping bag is good for practising. Lash one half with marling hitches and the other with half hitches. Then pull and push the rounds. You will feel at once which side holds – and learn to tell the two forms apart.
Step by step
The interactive diagram for this knot is in technical illustration review and will only be shown after approval. The written instructions are available.
- 1
Start
Tie the rope at one end of the bundle, e.g. with a clove hitch or constrictor knot.
- 2
Around the bundle
A hand's width further along, take the rope once around the bundle.
- 3
Over and under the standing part
Take the end first over the tensioned lengthwise strand and then under it, so the round locks around the lengthwise strand. Pull snug.
- 4
Repeat and finish
Repeat at even intervals to the end and finish with two half hitches or a clove hitch.
Common mistakes
- Tucking only under the lengthwise strand – that gives half hitches that can slide
- Uneven spacing
- Not keeping the rope tensioned between hitches
Quick view
Materials
Rope
Never use unknown or damaged rope for life-safety purposes.
Thin twine
Low breaking strength – light loads only.
Paracord
Not a climbing or safety rope.
Suitable for
- Tying up a rolled tarp, mat or blanket
- Carrying bundles of poles or firewood
- Securing long items to a pack
Not suitable for
- Loads lifted or moved over people
- Life-safety applications
Prerequisites
- Half hitch
- Clove hitch or constrictor knot to start
Safety
- The step sequence for this knot has not yet been checked by an expert. Always compare the tied knot with a reliable illustration or an experienced person.
How it works
In the marling hitch, after each round the end is tucked under the standing part so that a small overhand forms around it. This grips better than a plain half hitch, which can slide under load.
Advantages
- Bundle stays evenly tight
- Individual hitches hardly slip
- Needs only one rope
Disadvantages
- Uses a lot of rope on long bundles
- Slower than a few separate ties
Deep knowledge
Background
The marling hitch comes from seamanship, where sails were lashed to spars and bundles were tied up. Knot books contrast it with a series of half hitches, because the two look similar but behave differently.
In camp it suits anything long and rolled that has to be carried.
Variants
- Series of half hitches
- Quicker, but the individual hitches can slide under load. Often enough for light bundles.
Common mistakes
- Tucking only under the lengthwise strand – that gives half hitches that can slide
- Uneven spacing
- Not keeping the rope tensioned between hitches
Limits and risks
- Holds a bundle together but is not vehicle load securing.
Load and limits
Holds bundles together; not vehicle load securing. Every knot reduces a rope's breaking strength because tight bends load the fibres unevenly. How much depends on material, construction, diameter and test method; no single figures are given here on purpose.
Material alternatives
Derived from material properties: a substitute must have all relevant properties. Observe the notes on the substitute.
- Rope
- Paracord (Not a climbing or safety rope.)
- Thin twine
- Rope (Never use unknown or damaged rope for life-safety purposes.), Paracord (Not a climbing or safety rope.), Accessory cord (Use only certified cord after training for life-safety purposes.), Webbing (tubular webbing) (Inspect knotted webbing before every use.), Jute or sisal twine (bought) (Low strength, absorbs water and rots – light loads and practice only.), Tree straps (Load only within the manufacturer's limits.)
- Paracord
- Rope (Never use unknown or damaged rope for life-safety purposes.)
Results come exclusively from structured entries. No improvised instructions are generated.
Sources
Clifford W. Ashley – Doubleday, Doran & Co. (1944): The Ashley Book of Knots
Marling hitch and series of half hitches
Geoffrey Budworth (1997): The Complete Book of Knots
Marling hitch