Keeping in touch with the map: thumbing and ticking off features

Navigation is basically a chain of small confirmations. Every feature you expect that then actually appears tells you: I am where I think I am. Every feature that fails to appear is a sign that something is wrong. Thumbing makes sure this chain does not break.

The thumb has two jobs. It saves time, because you do not have to search the whole map for your position every time. And it directs your attention to the next section: you automatically look at what lies right ahead. Most cases of getting lost do not begin with a wrong decision but with not looking at the map for a while – and then no longer knowing where you lost the thread.

Fold the map so that the section you are currently in is on top, and keep it oriented – turned so that north on the map points to real north. Then 'left' on the map matches 'left' in the terrain. Put your thumb right next to your position, tip pointing in your direction of travel, so it does not cover the map.

Choose features that cannot be missed and are clearly different from each other: a bridge, a path junction, a clear climb, a forest edge, a stream. Two or three features ahead are enough. Note the time at each feature you reach as well. That way you later know how fast you are going and can estimate when the next one should appear.

The most important part is honesty. If a feature does not appear, you must not talk it into fitting: a path that branches off at roughly the right place but heads in the wrong direction is not the one you want. After a reasonable time without the expected feature, it is time to stop and check your position.

Thumbing helps almost anywhere there are recognisable features: on hiking paths with many junctions, in forests, in hill country and off-trail too, as long as the terrain has shapes. It is especially valuable when you lead a group, because you can say at any time where you are and what comes next.

It reaches its limits in featureless terrain – on a large, flat plain, in thick fog or in a whiteout. There you need compass, pace counting and time. It also works poorly on very small-scale maps showing hardly any detail. And it is only as good as the map: outdated paths or missing forestry roads can be confusing.

All you need is a suitable map, ideally at a scale where paths, streams and landforms are easy to see. A map case protects it in rain and wind and makes it easier to hold. A compass helps you orient the map quickly.

If you like, write a short list of features on a card before a difficult leg and tick them off with a pen. This is especially helpful when you are tired or want a group to navigate along with you.

On your next hike, do not put the map in your pack; hold it folded in your hand. Before each section, say out loud what should come next, and move your thumb at each feature. You will notice how much you learn about the map this way.

The method comes from orienteering, where runners must not lose their position for a moment at high speed. An orienteering event at a club or a taster course is a very good, safe way to practise – usually in manageable terrain with many checkpoints.