Cheat sheet: Bushcraft and craft

1. 1Choose the wood – Use sound, dry dead wood without rot or cracks that is lying on the ground and may be collected.
2. 2Saw to length – For pegs, pieces about forearm length or shorter; for the pot hanger a longer piece with a fork or a straight piece for several notches.
3. 3Carve the point – Brace the workpiece angled downwards on a firm support and carve the point all round with cuts away from the body.
4. 4Make the notch – About a hand's width below the head, make a vertical stop cut with a saw or knife, then carve at an angle up towards it until a wedge comes…
5. 5Finish the pot hanger – Forked-branch version: trim a branch with a short side branch so that the side branch serves as a hook for the pot handle; at the top, a…
6. 6Test – Drive pegs in carefully (with a wooden mallet, not the hatchet) and check their hold.

Danger: Always carve notches and points away from the body and never over the thigh. Never put the holding hand in front of the edge. With heavy bleeding press firmly on the wound and call the local emergency number (112 in the EU).

survivebetter.com/en/explore/bushcraft/bc-carving-camp-tools

1. 1Choose poles – Three dry, straight dead-wood poles about chest to shoulder high.
2. 2Lash the tripod – Lay the poles side by side and join them near the top with a tripod lashing.
3. 3Hang an adjustable hook – Hang a cord from the crossing point and attach a stick with several hooks or notches to it. Depending on the notch the pot hangs higher or…
4. 4Test – Before use load it with the filled, cold pot and shake the legs.
5. 5Alternative: pot crane – Lay a long, strong branch at an angle over the fire, weigh down the rear end with stones or fix it under a peg in the ground and support it…
6. 6Take down – Dismantle after the fire is out, take the cord with you, scatter the wood.

Danger: A tipping pot of boiling water causes serious scalds. Test the tripod with weight before hanging the pot, keep children and animals away and only lift the pot off the hook with a glove or stick. For large scalds call the local emergency number (112 in the EU).

survivebetter.com/en/explore/bushcraft/bc-tripod-pot-crane

1. 1Get a blank – Split a knot-free piece of fresh wood about forearm length in half (e.g. by batoning).
2. 2Mark the outline – Draw the spoon shape from above and from the side.
3. 3Rough out – Work out the outer shape with the forehand grip, chest lever and thumb push.
4. 4Hollow the bowl – Hold the spoon firmly and pull the hook knife in short, controlled strokes from the rim to the centre.
5. 5Finishing cuts – Make smooth, clean facets with a very sharp blade.
6. 6Dry slowly – Let the spoon dry for several days in a cool, shady place, not by a stove or in the sun.

Danger: The hook knife cuts along a curve and can travel to the holding hand or face when it slips. Plan cuts so the blade exits the wood away from your thumb and body; keep the holding hand behind the edge. With heavy bleeding press firmly on the wound and immediately call the local emergency number (112 in the EU).

survivebetter.com/en/explore/bushcraft/bc-spoon-carving

1. 1Gather material – Four legs of equal length, two long rails, one diagonal brace and many thin, straight poles for the top – only fallen deadwood where…
2. 2Lash the trestles – Cross two legs in an X and join them with a square lashing.
3. 3Add the rails – Stand both trestles up and lay or lash a long rail into the fork on each side.
4. 4Brace diagonally – Fix a pole diagonally between the trestles with diagonal lashings so the frame cannot fold sideways.
5. 5Lay the top – Lay thin poles tightly side by side across the rails and tie them at the ends with a continuous cord.
6. 6Test and dismantle – Rock it, increase the load gradually and tighten the lashings.

Caution: Rotten poles break without warning. Bend and check every pole for cracks and soft wood before using it; load the finished bench carefully before sitting on it.

survivebetter.com/en/explore/bushcraft/bc-camp-table-lashing

1. 1Find bark – Look on fallen, dead trunks for bark that is already coming away and is still tough.
2. 2Cut a rectangle – Cut a rectangle from the loose bark, about the size of the desired base plus the wall height all round.
3. 3Make it pliable – Soak dry bark in water or warm it carefully over warm air until it bends – do not hold it in the flame.
4. 4Fold the corners – Lightly score the base lines with the back of the knife, fold the sides up and lay the corners as triangular folds against the wall.
5. 5Clip – Split twigs and slide them over the folds as clips, or wrap with cord.
6. 6Let it dry – Let the container dry in shape; then retighten the clips if needed.

Caution: Peeling living trees damages them severely and is forbidden in many places. Use only loose bark from wood that is already dead and fallen, and check local rules.

survivebetter.com/en/explore/bushcraft/bc-bark-container

1. 1Check several features – Always look at at least three things: bark, leaf or needle and fruit or cone – plus the growth form.
2. 2Spruce, fir, pine – Spruce: pointed needles all round the twig that prick; cones hang down.
3. 3Recognise and avoid yew – Yew: flat, pointed needles, pale green underneath without white stripes, no cones, red cups around the seeds, red-brown, flaking bark.
4. 4Birch – White bark with black cracks, dark and rough at the base; small triangular, toothed leaves.
5. 5Oak and beech – Oak: lobed leaves, acorns, deeply furrowed bark; hard wood that burns for a long time.
6. 6Hazel, willow, lime – Hazel: a shrub with many straight shoots, roundish, softly hairy leaves – straight poles.
7. 7Use by the rules – For fires and crafts take only fallen deadwood.
8. 8Practise and take notes – Visit the same trees in summer and winter with a field guide.

Danger: Yew is highly poisonous in almost all parts – needles, seeds, bark and wood. Only the red seed coat is an exception, but the seed inside it is poisonous. Put nothing from a yew in your mouth and do not use it for spoons, skewers or chopsticks. If poisoning is suspected call 112 at once (in Austria also 144) or a poison information centre.

survivebetter.com/en/explore/bushcraft/bc-tree-identification

1. 1Prepare the spot and the block – Work only at a permitted fireplace and have water ready.
2. 2Carve a starter hollow and protect the rim – Carve a shallow hollow about 2–3 cm wide into the middle of the top with the knife – away from your body.
3. 3Place an ember – Using two fresh sticks as tongs or a metal spoon, take a strongly glowing coal about the size of a walnut from the fire and place it in the…
4. 4Blow gently – Blow steadily and calmly onto the coal from the side until it glows brightly and the wood beneath glows with it. Shift the coal now and…
5. 5Scrape out the char – After two or three coals, put the ember back into the fire and scrape out the soft black layer of char with the back of the knife, a spoon…
6. 6Repeat and check the wall thickness – Ember, blow, scrape – again and again.
7. 7Douse and clean – Return the last ember to the fire, douse the block with water and check that nothing is still glowing.
8. 8Finish and use correctly – Shape the outside with knife or saw, rinse the vessel and let it dry slowly in the shade, not by the fire – otherwise it cracks.

Danger: Embers are several hundred degrees hot and from above often already look grey and harmless. Move embers only with tongs, sticks or a spoon, never with your fingers. With a burn, cool the spot at once with cool, not ice-cold, water for at least 20 minutes; for large burns, burns to the face or burns in children call 112 (in Austria also 144).

survivebetter.com/en/explore/bushcraft/bc-burn-bowl

1. 1Decide: stay or go – First check whether staying is safer: can you call for help?
2. 2Gather material – Per shoe one or two flexible, fresh rods (e.g. willow or hazel), about thumb thick and a good head height long.
3. 3Bend the frame – Slowly bend the rod at its middle into a teardrop shape: rounded at the front, coming together to a point at the back.
4. 4Lash on the cross bars – Lash two cross bars across the frame: one under the ball of the foot, roughly in the middle, and a second under the heel.
5. 5Lace the deck – Lace cord in a zigzag between the sides of the frame, or lay spruce boughs densely across the bars and tie them on. Leave a gap in front of…
6. 6Fit the binding – Fasten a loop over the toe of the boot at the front cross bar – this is the pivot.
7. 7Walk correctly – Walk with your feet wider apart than usual so the shoes do not step on each other.
8. 8Check and repair on the way – Every few hundred metres check and tighten the lashings and binding.

Danger: In winter, moving is often more dangerous than staying: sweating, exhaustion and darkness quickly lead to hypothermia. If possible stay where you are, call 112 (in Austria also 140 for mountain rescue) and protect yourself from the cold. Build improvised snowshoes only if you really must move.

survivebetter.com/en/explore/bushcraft/bc-improvised-snowshoes

1. 1Choose the poles – Two straight, sound poles about one to two thumbs thick, as long as your back from neck to tailbone plus a hand's width.
2. 2Lay out and fit – Lay the long poles parallel on the ground at shoulder width.
3. 3Lash the corners – Join each crossing with a square lashing: clove hitch on the long pole, three to four wraps, then frapping turns between the poles…
4. 4Brace diagonally – Lash the diagonal pole from one top corner to the opposite bottom corner with diagonal lashings.
5. 5Fit wide straps – Fasten two wide straps – webbing, a belt or folded cloth – to the top cross bar, run them over the shoulders and tie them to the bottom…
6. 6Pack the load correctly – Put heavy things close to the frame and roughly in the middle, light things outside and on top.
7. 7Test carry – First walk a few steps on level ground.
8. 8Carry safely and dismantle – Walk calmly, take frequent short rests and stand the frame against a tree instead of dropping it. At the destination remove all cord and…

Caution: A load that is too heavy or stacked too high throws you off balance and strains back and knees. Better to make two trips. Stand up from the legs with a straight back; to put it on, have someone help, or sit down in front of the frame leaning against a trunk.

survivebetter.com/en/explore/bushcraft/bc-pack-frame

1. 1Choose the wood – Look for a straight, sound staff without cracks and without soft, rotten spots – for example hazel or ash, from deadwood or cut with…
2. 2Fit length and thickness – A staff about shoulder height is versatile: long enough for probing and stream crossings, and you can grip it higher or lower depending on…
3. 3Prepare it – Carve knots smooth so nothing presses into your hand.
4. 4Walk uphill and downhill – Uphill, grip the staff lower down and plant it beside you.
5. 5Probe the ground – Before mud, snowfields, leaf piles and puddles, push the staff into the ground ahead of you.
6. 6Ice: avoid it, don't test it – Ice cannot be tested reliably with a staff.
7. 7Cross shallow streams – Cross only if it is necessary and the water is slow, clear and at most knee deep.
8. 8Look after it and replace it – After every trip check for cracks and splinters and store it dry.

Danger: Flowing water has enormous force. Even knee-deep fast current can knock you over. Do not cross if the water is fast, murky or deeper than just below the knee, if it is rising after rain, or if waterfalls or obstacles lie downstream. If in doubt, turn back or wait. Do not use a wrist loop; open the rucksack's hip belt.

survivebetter.com/en/explore/bushcraft/bc-walking-staff

1. 1Clarify the task first – Ask yourself: do I want to carve, build, weave, make a handle or a fire?
2. 2Identify the tree and check the rules – Identify the species reliably by several features – bark, leaf or needle, fruit, growth form.
3. 3Wood for the fire – For lighting, use thin, dry spruce or pine and fatwood – it catches quickly but throws sparks.
4. 4Wood for carving and food vessels – Lime is soft and even – ideal for learning.
5. 5Exclude poisonous woods – Never use yew (flat needles without white stripes, red seed cups, red-brown bark) or laburnum (hanging yellow flower clusters, pea-like…
6. 6Wood for handles and tools – Ash is tough and springy – the classic wood for axe and tool handles.
7. 7Wood for poles, rods and bindings – Hazel sends up straight poles – good for pegs, staffs and frames.
8. 8Test the wood before use – Bend, tap and look at every piece: if it sounds dull, is soft, spongy or has fungus, it is rotten.

Danger: Yew and laburnum are highly poisonous. Never use their wood for spoons, bowls, skewers, chopsticks or roasting sticks, and do not burn it for cooking. Unknown, painted, impregnated or glued wood also does not belong near food or in the fire. If poisoning is suspected call 112 at once (in Austria also 144) or a poison information centre.

survivebetter.com/en/explore/bushcraft/bc-wood-selection-uses

1. 1Choose the right cord – For guylines use low-stretch, UV-resistant lines; for lashing and bundling flexible cord; near fire avoid synthetics that melt.
2. 2Secure the ends – Synthetic cord: hold the end briefly in a flame until the fibres fuse.
3. 3Protect from abrasion – Where a line runs over edges, bark or rock, pad it with a piece of cloth or tubing.
4. 4Inspect regularly – Run the line through your hands before and after use: hard, glazed, frayed, discoloured or thin spots mean replace or cut out.
5. 5Store dry and tidy – Untie knots, let wet lines dry loosely (not on a heater or by the fire), then coil them and store them in the dark.

Danger: Never use paracord, washing line or craft cord for climbing, abseiling or securing people. That requires tested, standard-compliant equipment and training.

survivebetter.com/en/explore/bushcraft/bc-cordage-care

1. 1Prepare fibres – Unravel a piece of jute or sisal twine and arrange the fibres into a loose bundle.
2. 2Fold the bundle – Divide the bundle unevenly (one strand a little longer), fold it in the middle and hold the fold between thumb and index finger.
3. 3Twist the upper strand – Twist the strand furthest from you a few times in one direction (e.g. clockwise).
4. 4Wrap in reverse – Lay the twisted strand over the other one against the direction of twist.
5. 5Add fibres – When a strand gets thin, lay in new fibres with an overlap.
6. 6Secure the end – Secure the end with an overhand knot or whipping.

Caution: Home-made cord has an unknown and usually low strength. Never use it for people, climbing or loads above people.

survivebetter.com/en/explore/bushcraft/bc-reverse-wrap-cordage

1. 1Choose trees – Two healthy, sturdy trees, not dead, with no dead branches overhead, away from paths.
2. 2Fit tree protection – Put a length of webbing around each trunk instead of wrapping the cord directly around the bark.
3. 3Fixed end – On the first side attach the line to the strap with a bowline or a loop.
4. 4Tension – On the second side tension with a trucker's hitch or taut-line hitch and finish with a slipped hitch so it can be released quickly.
5. 5Friction hitches as hooks – Fit short loops with Prusik knots on the line; hang tarp corners, a lamp or bags on them and slide them as needed.
6. 6Mark and dismantle – Mark the line, check it at night and take all straps and scraps of cord with you when breaking camp.

Danger: A camp line is not a safety system. Never hang people from it, balance on it or cross water with it – that requires tested equipment and training.

survivebetter.com/en/explore/bushcraft/bc-camp-ridgeline

1. 1Choose stems – In late summer or autumn pick the longest, straight stems from a large stand – the longer the stem, the longer the fibres.
2. 2Cut wearing gloves – Put on gloves and long sleeves.
3. 3Strip the leaves – Grip the stem firmly with your gloved hand and pull from top to bottom – the leaves and most stinging hairs come off.
4. 4Flatten the stem – Lay the stem on a smooth surface and press it flat along its length with your fingers or a round piece of wood until it splits open at the…
5. 5Break out the woody core – Open the stem out.
6. 6Dry the fibres – You can lightly scrape off the green outer skin with your thumbnail or the back of the knife.
7. 7Dampen before twisting – Briefly dampen the dry strips so they become supple, and split them into thin, even fibre bundles.
8. 8Twist two-ply – Fold a bundle unevenly and twist it as in the reverse-wrap technique: twist the upper strand, lay it over the other one, repeat.

Danger: Home-made plant cord has no known strength. Never use it for people, climbing or loads above anyone.

survivebetter.com/en/explore/bushcraft/bc-nettle-cordage

1. 1Cut rods in winter – With permission, between leaf fall and spring, cut long, one-year rods without side shoots at an angle with the secateurs.
2. 2Soak and sort – Use fresh rods straight away; lay dried ones fully under water for a few days until they bend around a finger without breaking.
3. 3Lay the base cross – Lay four thick, long rods side by side and four more crosswise on top so that a cross with four arms forms.
4. 4Bind the cross – Tuck two thin rods into the middle and, for two rounds, pass them alternately in front of and behind each arm of four rods, crossing the…
5. 5Fan the spokes and weave the base – Spread the rods apart one by one like the spokes of a wheel and push in one extra short spoke so the number is odd.
6. 6Bend up the stakes – Kink each spoke slightly at the edge of the base with your thumbnail or the back of the knife without breaking it, and bend it upwards.
7. 7Weave the wall – Weave round after round over-under with thin rods.
8. 8Lay in the border and trim – Untie the twine.

Caution: Willows always belong to someone. Cut only with permission, ideally when pollarded willows are being maintained. In Germany heavy cutting back of woody plants outside forests is prohibited from 1 March to 30 September; cutting in winter fits this and suits the willow.

survivebetter.com/en/explore/bushcraft/bc-willow-basket

1. 1Find permitted branches – Take lime branches that come from pruning or have broken off in a storm – only with the owner's permission.
2. 2Score and peel the bark – Lay the branch on a firm support and score the bark lengthwise with one cut down to the wood – away from your body.
3. 3Ret in water – Loosely roll or bundle the bark strips and lay them completely under water in your own container, weighted with a stone.
4. 4Check regularly – About once a week take out a strip and try at one corner whether the layers come apart.
5. 5Separate the bast layers – Pull off the dark outer bark.
6. 6Dry and store – Hang the bast strips loosely on a line in the shade until they are completely dry.
7. 7Dampen and twist – Dampen the bast briefly, split it into even strips a few millimetres wide and twist it two-ply as in the reverse wrap.
8. 8Test and use correctly – Test the finished cord slowly by pulling with your hands and look for thin spots.

Danger: Never peel bark from standing trees and never cut a ring around a tree. Without bark the tree can no longer move nutrients and dies. This is prohibited without permission – in Germany § 39 BNatSchG protects plants from damage without good reason, and wood and bark always belong to the owner.

survivebetter.com/en/explore/bushcraft/bc-linden-bark-cordage

1. 1Set up the workspace – Sit firmly with feet apart and elbows free.
2. 2Forehand grip – Handle held firmly in the fist, edge facing away from the body.
3. 3Thumb push – The knife hand stays steady while the thumb of the other hand presses on the spine and pushes the blade in small, controlled cuts.
4. 4Chest lever – Knife close to the chest with the edge facing outwards, workpiece also close to the body.
5. 5Putting down and breaks – Never put the knife down open or stick it in the ground; return it to the sheath or fold it securely.
6. 6Passing a knife – Pass handle first with the edge away from the recipient; only let go when the other person says "thank you" or confirms they have it.

Danger: Never carve over the thigh or between the legs. Large blood vessels run along the inside of the thigh; a slip can cause life-threatening bleeding. With heavy bleeding press firmly on the wound and call the local emergency number (112 in the EU) immediately.

survivebetter.com/en/explore/bushcraft/bc-knife-safety-grips

1. 1Check tool and surroundings – Check the head, handle, edge and saw.
2. 2Saw where possible – Place the wood on a stable support, keep the free hand well away from the blade and saw with long, steady strokes without forcing.
3. 3Hatchet only on a chopping block – For splitting, stand the piece of wood on a chopping block, not on the ground.
4. 4Hands out of the swing path – Never hold the wood with your hand while striking.
5. 5Short, controlled blows – Prefer small, accurate blows to wide swings.
6. 6Store safely – Fit the edge guard or fold the saw.

Danger: A hatchet that glances off or cuts through travels towards the leg and foot. Always work so that the swing path ends in the wood or chopping block in front of the body – never towards the leg. With a serious injury press firmly on the wound and call the local emergency number (112 in the EU).

survivebetter.com/en/explore/bushcraft/bc-saw-axe-safety

1. 1Prepare the stone – Soak or oil the stone according to the manufacturer and place it on a flat surface so it cannot slip.
2. 2Find the angle – For knives with a flat Scandinavian grind (Scandi), lay the edge bevel flat on the stone.
3. 3Even strokes – Move the blade over the stone with light pressure as if slicing off a thin layer, covering the whole edge from heel to tip.
4. 4Feel the burr – Stroke across the edge on the opposite side with a fingertip.
5. 5Switch sides – Same number of strokes on the other side until the burr moves back.
6. 6Remove the burr and test – Remove the burr with very light strokes or on a leather strop (stropping).

Caution: Keep the fingers of the guiding hand flat and behind the edge. Feel for the burr only across the edge with a fingertip – never along the edge.

survivebetter.com/en/explore/bushcraft/bc-knife-sharpening

1. 1Choose a baton – Find a club of dead wood about forearm length that is comfortable to grip.
2. 2Prepare the wood – Saw the piece short and stand it on firm ground with the knot-free end up. The diameter should be clearly smaller than the blade length so…
3. 3Set the blade – Set the blade in the middle of the end grain, along an existing crack if possible.
4. 4Drive the tip – Once the blade is seated, strike the protruding spine near the tip.
5. 5Finish and divide further – Split the halves again until kindling of the desired size is produced.

Danger: Never split wood between your feet or in front of your legs. When the blade breaks through it travels downwards – keep hands, knees and feet to the side, out of that path. With heavy bleeding press firmly on the wound and immediately call the local emergency number (112 in the EU).

survivebetter.com/en/explore/bushcraft/bc-batoning

1. 1Set up the block – Stand a wide, flat-sawn block on firm ground.
2. 2Read the wood – Stand the round upright.
3. 3Take the stance – Feet shoulder-width apart, distance such that the edge meets the middle of the round with arms extended.
4. 4Swing with control – Bring the axe vertically over the centre, the upper hand sliding down to the end of the handle.
5. 5Start at the edge – With thick rounds split pieces off the edge first instead of hitting the middle.
6. 6Clear up – Regularly clear split wood from the work area so nothing is in the way.

Danger: A missed blow or one that breaks through travels towards the shin and foot. Choose a block high enough and stand far enough back that the axe then lands in the block or ground in front of you. With heavy bleeding press firmly on the wound and immediately call the local emergency number (112 in the EU).

survivebetter.com/en/explore/bushcraft/bc-axe-splitting

1. 1Build the horse – Cross two pairs of poles into an X each and lash them (square or shear lashing), set them up about half a metre apart and join them low…
2. 2Load the wood – Lay the wood in the forks so that the part to be cut off overhangs the end freely.
3. 3Start the cut – Make a kerf with two or three light back strokes, then saw with long, steady strokes.
4. 4Finish cleanly – Near the end lightly support the overhanging piece so it does not tear off and splinter.
5. 5Take down – Fold the saw, dismantle the horse and undo the lashings when leaving camp.

Caution: The free hand holds the wood well away from the cut, ideally on the side of the horse that does not fall away. Start the cut with a few back strokes rather than using the thumb as a guide.

survivebetter.com/en/explore/bushcraft/bc-sawhorse-sawing

1. 1Clean – Remove resin, soil and food residue with warm water or a little washing-up liquid.
2. 2Dry – Dry the blade at once, including folding-saw joints.
3. 3Oil lightly – Put a few drops of oil on a cloth and wipe a very thin film over the metal parts.
4. 4Remove surface rust – Rub off light rust with oil and a fine abrasive pad or a blade eraser, then oil again.
5. 5Check handle and sheath – Check the handle for cracks and a loose fit; treat dry wooden handles occasionally with linseed oil.
6. 6Store – Store dry, with a blade guard and out of children's reach.

Danger: Rags with linseed oil or other drying oils can ignite spontaneously. Lay them out flat outdoors to dry or dispose of them in water in a closed metal container.

survivebetter.com/en/explore/bushcraft/bc-tool-care-rust

1. 1Cover blades – Knife in its sheath, saw folded or blade guard fitted, hatchet with its guard on – before every step.
2. 2Carry the hatchet – Grip the handle near the head, blade down and away from the leg, arm relaxed at your side.
3. 3Hand tools over – Hand over handle first and only let go when the other person says "got it".
4. 4Bundle wood – Bundle poles and branches with a rope and drag or shoulder them.
5. 5Lift properly – Bend the knees, grip the load close to the body and stand up using the legs.
6. 6Keep the path clear – Know the path between collecting point and camp, avoid obstacles and put tools down in a fixed place at the destination.

Danger: Never walk with an uncovered hatchet, knife or saw in your hand. If you trip you fall onto the blade.

survivebetter.com/en/explore/bushcraft/bc-carrying-tools-wood

1. 1Explain the rules – Discuss calmly beforehand: whittle only seated, away from the body, safety circle, close or sheath the knife to walk, hand it over handle…
2. 2Position – Seated, elbows on knees, workpiece outside the legs.
3. 3First cuts – Peel bark off a stick and shape a blunt point.
4. 4Small project – Simple items like a toasting stick, a name tag or a tent peg – success within one session.
5. 5Breaks – Stop when tired or restless.

Danger: Children only whittle with supervision within reach. For heavily bleeding cuts apply pressure and call the local emergency number (112 in the EU).

survivebetter.com/en/explore/bushcraft/bc-whittling-with-children

1. 1Choose the right wood – Look for hard, straight-grown hardwood without rot, cracks or big knots – for example ash, beech, oak or hornbeam.
2. 2Carve safely – Sit on a block, legs apart, the work to the side in front of your knee.
3. 3Shape the digging stick – Carve the thick end of the rod into a flat, chisel-like tip, not a thin needle: two sloping faces over about a hand's length, with a…
4. 4Fire-harden the tip briefly – Hold the tip at a distance over the embers, not in the flames, and keep turning the stick.
5. 5Work with the digging stick – Push the tip into the ground at an angle and lever the soil loose backwards, then scrape or scoop the loose soil out with your hand or a…
6. 6A mallet from a log section – Mark a grip length on the log section (about a hand's width plus thumb) and saw a shallow stop cut all round there, no deeper than a…
7. 7Carve wooden wedges – Carve two or three wedges from hand-length pieces of hard wood: two broad faces that taper from a flat head to a blunt edge.
8. 8Split with wedges – Stand the log firmly upright or lay it securely on the ground.

Caution: Always carve away from your body, seated, with the blade in front of the knee and not between your legs. An arm's length of space around you (the “blood circle”), nobody inside it. Sheathe the knife as soon as you put it down.

survivebetter.com/en/explore/bushcraft/bc-wooden-tools

1. 1Collect resin – Hard drops of resin often hang at old wounds on spruce or pine trees.
2. 2Grind charcoal – Grind a piece of cold charcoal from a dead fire between two stones into a fine powder.
3. 3Prepare the melting spot – Put the crushed resin into a small tin with a handle.
4. 4Melt slowly – Put the tin at the edge of the embers, not in the flame.
5. 5Remove debris – Fish bits of bark, needles and insects out of the liquid resin with a twig.
6. 6Stir in charcoal – Take the tin off the fire and stir in charcoal powder a little at a time.
7. 7Test and form a pitch stick – Let a drop cool on a stone: if it shatters, add more resin; if it stays sticky, add more charcoal.
8. 8Use the glue – Warm the pitch stick carefully over the embers until it softens and smear it onto the clean, dry spot.

Danger: Hot resin sticks to the skin and burns deeply. Never touch it with bare fingers. If burnt, cool at once with cool, not ice-cold, water for at least 20 minutes and do not tear the resin off. For large burns or burns to the face call 112 (in Austria also 144).

survivebetter.com/en/explore/bushcraft/bc-pine-pitch-glue

1. 1Choose wood and sizes – Take sound, dry deadwood without cracks, preferably hardwood such as hazel, beech or ash.
2. 2Shape point and head – Point the tip with three or four flat cuts away from your body, not too fine.
3. 3Notched peg: notch facing down – About 3–5 cm below the head, saw a straight stop cut to about a third of the thickness.
4. 4Forked peg: no notch – A branch with a short side branch saves you the notch: leave the side branch about 3 cm long – it becomes the hook.
5. 5Toggle: carve a collar groove – In the middle of the toggle make two stop cuts all round, about a finger's width apart and a few millimetres deep.
6. 6Use the toggle – Tie the cord into the groove with a clove hitch.
7. 7Set pegs correctly – Set the peg with the tip angled slightly away from the line and drive it in with a wooden mallet, not the hatchet.
8. 8Pull out and tidy up – Pull pegs out along their axis or lever them out with a second peg through the notch.

Danger: Always carve notches and grooves on a firm support and away from your body, never over the thigh or between the knees. The holding hand stays behind the edge. With heavy bleeding press firmly on the wound and call 112 (in Austria also 144).

survivebetter.com/en/explore/bushcraft/bc-pegs-toggles-tent-stakes

1. 1Plan ahead – Check the area's rules (camping, fires, toilets), check the weather, keep the group small, repack food to reduce packaging waste.
2. 2Camp on durable surfaces – Use existing campsites or durable surfaces such as rock, gravel, dry grass or sand, at a distance from water.
3. 3Dispose of waste properly – Pack everything out, including food scraps and toilet paper where required.
4. 4Leave what you find – Do not pull up plants, take stones or artefacts, or leave branch structures standing.
5. 5Minimise campfires – Use a stove instead of a fire.
6. 6Final check – Before leaving, sweep the site in a line: litter, pegs, cord ends, fire remains.

Danger: No open fire in dry conditions, under a wildfire warning or a fire ban. A carelessly abandoned fire can start a wildfire. In case of fire call the local emergency number (112 in the EU) immediately.

survivebetter.com/en/explore/bushcraft/bc-leave-no-trace-camp

1. 1Read the ground – Check wind direction, slope, watercourse, dead branches and paths.
2. 2Sleeping zone – Choose level ground for the tents, not in hollows, at a distance from the shore.
3. 3Fire and kitchen zone – Fire or stove downwind of the tents.
4. 4Toilet zone – Far from water, camp and paths; dig a cathole about 15–20 cm (6–8 in) deep and close it afterwards.
5. 5Water point – Use one fixed collection point and do not wash there.
6. 6Break camp – Take everything with you, put the fire out completely and leave the site natural.

Caution: Site the toilet and grey water far from water, trails and camp – Leave No Trace gives about 60 m (200 ft, roughly 70 paces). Faeces can contaminate drinking water.

survivebetter.com/en/explore/bushcraft/bc-camp-layout

1. 1Protect the sleeping set – One complete dry set (underwear, socks, hat) stays in its bag and is worn only in the sleeping bag.
2. 2Wring out – Wring clothing hard or roll it in a towel and kneel on it. Turn socks inside out.
3. 3String a line – String a line in the wind but under the tarp.
4. 4Use sun and wind – In breaks and dry weather spread gear on the outside of the pack or over bushes.
5. 5Body heat – Dry slightly damp socks or gloves overnight inside your jacket or in the sleeping bag in a thin bag – not soaking items that would wet the…
6. 6Boots – Remove insoles, open the laces wide, stuff with dry paper or cloth and change it regularly.

Danger: Never run a stove, barbecue or heater inside a tent to dry things – carbon monoxide and fire risk.

survivebetter.com/en/explore/bushcraft/bc-drying-clothes-camp

1. 1Check the rules – Before the trip find out: may wood be collected and fires lit here?
2. 2Look up – Before collecting, check the trees above for dead branches and leaning trunks.
3. 3Fallen wood only – Take wood lying on the ground that snaps dry.
4. 4Thin enough – Mainly wood that can be broken by hand.
5. 5Collect widely – Do not clear one spot but collect spread over a larger area, away from the camp.
6. 6Only as much as needed – Estimate the need, plan a small fire and scatter leftover wood when breaking camp.

Danger: Dead trees and hung-up branches can fall without warning, especially in wind. Do not pull or shake them, and do not collect or camp beneath them.

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1. 1Scrape out leftovers – Eat pots and plates clean or scrape them out with a spoon.
2. 2Fetch water – Fetch water in a container from the bank and carry it to the washing area.
3. 3Wash – Wash with warm water and little or no soap, cleanest items first.
4. 4Strain and scatter – Pour the washing water through a fine strainer or cloth, put the scraps in the rubbish and scatter the water widely, well away from water…
5. 5Dry – Let dishes air-dry rather than wrapping them in a damp cloth.
6. 6Personal washing – Wash yourself with water from the container away from the bank too.

Caution: Wash hands before preparing food and after every toilet visit; stomach bugs spread quickly in groups. Where water is scarce, also use hand sanitiser.

survivebetter.com/en/explore/bushcraft/bc-camp-dishwashing

1. 1Choose a safe place – Outdoors or under an open tarp, sheltered from wind, on a flat stone or bare earth.
2. 2Prepare the dish – Use a shallow, fireproof dish: a shell, a tin or tin lid, a hollowed stone, a clay dish.
3. 3Add fuel – Pour in cooking oil or fat such as tallow or lard only shallowly.
4. 4Twist a wick – Twist a strip of pure cotton tightly into a wick and soak it in the oil.
5. 5Position the wick – The wick lies in the fat with only the tip sticking out over the rim by about a fingernail's width.
6. 6Light it and adjust the flame – Light the tip of the wick.
7. 7Keep watch – Never leave the lamp alone and keep children away.
8. 8Put it out by smothering – Push the wick into the fat with a twig or put a lid or flat stone on it. Never put water on burning fat.

Danger: Never use it in a tent, a sleeping bag or next to fabric. Any open flame can set fabric alight and produce carbon monoxide in small, enclosed spaces. A shelter needs an open side or a real smoke outlet and a CO alarm.

survivebetter.com/en/explore/bushcraft/bc-fat-lamp

1. 1Find dead, fallen birches – Look for fallen birches, broken branches or loose bark lying on the ground.
2. 2Take the bark – On the lying trunk, score the bark lengthwise with the knife and lift it off with your fingers.
3. 3Sort it – Thin, papery layers go to tinder.
4. 4Prepare tinder – Tear thin bark into narrow strips or scrape off fine fibres with the back of the knife until you have a loose little heap.
5. 5Make it supple and flat – Thick pieces of bark become more flexible if you warm them briefly in the sun or at a distance over gentle heat.
6. 6Fold containers – From a flat, flexible piece you can fold a simple container and secure it with wooden clips or cord – instructions are in the entry on the…
7. 7Lay it as weather protection – Lay bark sheets overlapping like roof tiles from the bottom upwards so rain runs from one sheet onto the next.
8. 8Store dry and take only what you need – Carry tinder bark dry in a tin or bag.

Danger: Never peel bark from living birches. Even tearing off the white outer layer harms the tree, leaves permanent scars and opens it to fungi. Without permission it is prohibited; wood and bark belong to the forest owner.

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